Presumably to smear inside the plugs boots to ease sliding them onto the spark plugs?

That's fine....but any number of products will do the same and you might already have them. Silicone paste or spray, a light smear of Vaseline......

My present favorite is ....

Napa 7651346 Sil-Glyde Silicone Lubricating Compound Tube, 8 oz | eBay

....which is available under many labels. I also use it when installing cooling system hoses.

Having dielectric grease on hand is a good idea, though.

Cheers
DD

 

I have silicone grease, if that's pretty much the same thing.
Except Wikipedia suggests that it's not: "Silicone grease should not be applied to (or next to) any switch contact that might experience arcing." I'll hunt up what it might be called in Japan.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silico...lectric_grease

 

Dielectric grease is a type of silicone grease....but not all silicone grease is dielectric

Technically dielectric grease would be the best choice but my experience is that any of the above mentioned choices work fine on spark plug boots. I've never had any problems. Remember, too, you're using just a little smear...not gooping it into the boot as though you were icing a chocolate cake

There are countless specialty products out there that are very good but not essential. For example (and you might experience this) it is common for alloy wheels to stick onto the hubs due to corrosion. Many use actual "anti-seize" compound on he hub-to-wheel mating surfaces to prevent this from happening.....and there's nothing wrong with that.

Me? I've being using plain, ordinary wheel bearing grease to accomplish the same thing for as long as I can remember.

But, when there's a choice of products and one of them is specifically recommended for a specific purpose....and you're in doubt if a substitute will suffice...go with the specific product.

Cheers
DD

 

I'll see if dielectric is readily available - if not, I'll use silicone grease lightly smeared around the inside of the rubber boot that slips over the plug.

I hadn't heard about alloy wheels sticking. Come to think of it, when I got my tyres changed (all four, requiring a proper lift), the garage had to use a rubber mallet to get some of the wheels loose.... I do know it's recommended to use anti-seize compound when inserting steel plugs into an aluminium engine block, for example.

 

Good plan!


Sometimes the corrosion buildup can be very heavy and takes lots of wire-brushing to remove. Even worse is when it migrates into the holes for the wheel studs......which can greatly interfere with removing/installing the wheel nuts.


Now for something like that I'd use the exact recommended product, yes !

Cheers
DD

 

Finally did some more work to the old lady today...

Replaced the crank case ventilation housing with filter and co (costed less to buy than it would have to clean it up) and removed the harmonic balancer aka main pulley...

 

Please check out the latest Updates of my 'Cherry Blossom' restoration Thread.

A Battery Condition indicator, that I don't know how to use, as it didn't come with any Instructions.

Also Replacing the Rear Brake Pads.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...122634/page25/

 

Today, I received (bought last week) a transmitter remote for my XJS. Just disassembled and cleaned it up, new battery. Now to figure out the programming procedure!

 

Dropped her off at the shop a couple days ago cos the brake pedal got dangerously soft. Now the starter clicks. There's power at the relay so the shop's sure it's the starter itself. Not looking forward to this repair bill.

My kingdom for a garage.

 

Went to the body/frame shop to see what non-progress had been made to my toy.

Found that they had disassembled it enough to find out the front sub-frame was bent. Not too surprising considering how the front wheel exploded on hitting the retaining wall.

Good news from the forum is that the subframe on the donor car is going to fit.

Things are looking up!

 

Today I bought Transmission stuffs:

Nylon Pinion Gear for Speedo Transducer:


Trans filter kit:

 

Not ,y XJ-S but a friend's X308...

Removed the front subframe to redo all the bushes... Yehaw is that fun

 

Help!

How do I get this Drill Chuck undone?

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...7/#post1609551

 

Ideas!!!!


1. I can't quite see enough in the picture. If it is a reversible, the position between CW and CCW is lock.


2. Remove the chuck entirely. Open the jaws as far as you can. Peer in to the cavity.
A screw should be there. It fastens the chuck assembly to the drill motor shaft.


Decades back, I tried to swap out an old tech Keyed chuck for a keyless one. Naah, no luck. Differing fasteners ! So, my corded units, old tech, 3/8" and 1/2" remain in service on occasion, keys and all!!!!


Carl

 

Hi Carl

Cheers!

But if I could open the Jaws of the Chuck, I wouldn't have a problem, as that's the very think I want to do.

 

Just took some parts to be galvanized again. Bit of bling bling is nice to have

 

Definitely worth checking earth lead. Measure voltage drop from earth to engine, if problems then
​​​​​​​Run an additional earth from firewall / bulkhead to the engine

 

Orange:


Oh, oh missed that "minor" point!!!


I forgot which of my toys perplexed me a bit ago. I could not figure out how to do something with it. So, I sat on my porch. Nice sunny day. Adult beverage at my side.
Calm, cool and collected. messed with twists, pushes, pulls, combinations until voila, I got it!!!!


Sorta like the 1000 monkeys on a keyboard thing...


Carl

 

Just picked up some blasted parts. They look all nice and shiney now. Time for some paint on the steel parts...

 

Daim, I have found VHT brake caliper paint to be very robust. 5 years ago I painted my lower wishbones with silver and they are still good.

Sandblasted, cleaned with wax & grease remover then painted with rattle can. Inexpensive and easy to DIY. I used a large cardboard box as a mini paint booth.