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How does that affect the intake noise? Do you get more snarl, or less?
I've been thinking about intakes but taking AJ6 Engineering's writings on the topic as my starting point - they offer a hi-flow filter that goes in the stock air box. (They have several pages on air and exhaust flow, here's one for starters: How Things Are Done | aj6 engineering )
Hey - thanks for the link - interesting stuff.
It actually made the engine more quiet - like I said, you don't hear the air noise of the air getting sucked through the tiny intakes. Now, you just hear the engine. For more snarl, my next upgrade will be a larger exhaust system, with a cross pipe, and fewer mufflers... or, at least straight-flow mufflers to minimize back-pressure. Jag definitely needs a little more snarl.
Regarding the air filter, the stock air box just doesn't have enough surface area. I don't think you'll see any impact from any type of filter in that box. The cannister filter I put in has twice the stock area, and it's a hi-flow K&N style filter. Besides, even if you get more flow from a better filter, you are still constrained by that 1.5" neck coming into the air-box.
I actually hope to get my XJ-S on the road soon—finally—and so have been on a bit of a buying spree of late. Here's something I wanted to put me in the right frame of mind to work on the car, a custom shop shirt:
I ordered a growler patch off Ebay, and a custom "XJ-S" patch off Etsy, and ironed them on. My car is Regent Grey with black interior, so the colors match. I'm happy with it.
The mini filters are for the smog pump. The smog pump originally was siphoning air from the intake (to the exhaust). So, since I wanted to maximize intake flow, I disconnected the smog pump inlet from my new intake, and I gave it its own set of filters. So, now, the smog pump doesn't need to siphon filtered air from the intake, it just gets it from under the hood.
I tried to clean my drivers seat back but it still looked grubby. So decided to get Aldridge to make me a new one. Should be here in 3 weeks, this is the old one if anyone's interested.
Continuing rehabbing the car- removed rear end unit. On workbench began disassembling and making a list of parts needed. It my 66 all over again. (Why didnt I learn?) Trying to get at calipers in time to return all 4 and collect the core charge from Rock Auto.
Got the car out of winter storage. Fired up on the fourth try, which is about what I expected. My new radiator arrived on Thursday, need to get a few more things then we can dive into redoing the cooling system.
Pulled my rear 1/4 window regulators out of my 93 convertible and took the motors to a local repair shop. I'm hoping that will get them working again. I'd really rather just get new ones, but they're nla. Has anyone found an alternative window motor that works?
First weekend back on the car this year (too much bad weather and too many other chores to attend to). Removed steering rack - mashed fingers on driveway when I dropped it. Removed brake calipers and pipes, disconnected drop links, removed both front road springs, found out my front subframe is toast (right spring turret is fubar - none of the damage was visible with the spring in place, now hunting for a replacement - and I'm not paying hundreds for one that may have similar issues. They're available new but it is a hard pill to swallow (£1400), they're not even galvenised / zinc dipped for that money which is frankly ludicrous. I've seen a few for sale - one in worse shape. I'm not keen on the idea of welding it, one welding starts it never ends. There is absolutely no hint on the outside what is lurking inside, an MOT tester couldn't have seen this damage with the spring in situ.
Oh well only the two rear, two front and engine mounts left to undo and the subframe is out.
Had a good look at the starter and thought "I hope I never need to replace that sucker" can't see any way to extract that easily - do you think I should just refurb it while the subframe is off and it is easier to get out ? - just thinking about sod and his darnn laws ...
Jaguar XJS - the project that just keeps giving taking
Ben
Where are new subframes for sale please?
Secondly, the starter is easier to remove while you have the subframe off. BUT: it is bolted up from the gearbox side. Two bolts, one a normal gearbox attachment bolt, one a 12 point headed 7/16ths bolt that is accessible with a long extension and is partially shrouded down a dedicated grove in the casing. You MUST use a 12 point socket to do this, if a single hex is used it knackers the 12 point headed bolt and you have real problems!
Hi Greg - you saying the gearbox has to come off or just the cover plate ? - I don't know whether to bother or not this project has already grown arms and legs
SNG Barratt are reporting them as available to special order, I got to this by tracing through the part number succession
Ah OK - similar to some of the older Fords then. Still can't decide whether to pop it off for a look see - ludicrous place for a starter - and a good reason not to leave the car sitting idling with no air movement - might put a temperature sensor under there to see just how hot it does get.
I've been looking for a product that is used to coat manifolds etc (know it exists can't remember the name) - not sure it is worth the bother though. Looking at the cables in that area they are cloth covered - if these cables are simple PVC sheathed then it is too hot in that area for those for sure so they'll likely be brittle - there was no flex left in the injector harnes so they'll be worse I reckon.
1994 XJS V12 Cold Air Intake upgrade
