XJS ( X27 ) 1975 - 1996 3.6 4.0 5.3 6.0

Wiper Stalk/Switch

Old Nov 15, 2021 | 09:38 AM
  #21  
Greg in France's Avatar
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Providing it does what the OEM one does as shown in the diagram and testing procedures I attached earlier in the thread.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2021 | 09:53 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Greg in France
Providing it does what the OEM one does as shown in the diagram and testing procedures I attached earlier in the thread.
And just to confirm: will the entire system not function without the correct delay relay, or will I only be without the intermittent function?
 
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Old Nov 15, 2021 | 10:02 AM
  #23  
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You should only be without intermittent function. As I said earlier, you might have to jumper two terminals. It is not a standard relay. It is a timer with a relay as part of it. There's a lot of components inside. You will occasionally find them on eBay, or try wrecking yards that specialize in Jags.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2021 | 10:04 AM
  #24  
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Thanks Jal, I'll see what I can find.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2021 | 10:20 AM
  #25  
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In case anyone stumbles on this thread in the future, the green Lucas delay relay for the electrolux system is 37843A. Searching the Jag part # DAC 6053 won't get you anywhere.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2021 | 11:44 AM
  #26  
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I can see no reason why a generic 4 terminal wiper relay will not do the job. They are freely available.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2021 | 09:25 PM
  #27  
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Got power to fuse #9 straightened out by wedging some rubber next to the fuse copper prongs (tip: golf grips are great for this…use the rubber down by the shaft where it’s thinnest).

Now with the switch in off mode, I get 12V at switch terminals 1 and 7. In all other modes I only get 12V at terminal 1.

Time to get a new switch!
 

Last edited by MrAndersonGCC; Nov 15, 2021 at 09:35 PM.
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Old Nov 15, 2021 | 09:42 PM
  #28  
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Confirmed: jumped terminals 1 & 5 on the switch and the wipers work! Time for a new switch indeed.

Greg & Jal: should I replace my switch with a certain year or should stick with the 83?
 
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Old Nov 16, 2021 | 12:43 AM
  #29  
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The switch was identical on all HEs up to the time they updated the switchgear in about 1988/89.
The switch may be repairable too, someone recently posted about it.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2021 | 12:46 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by MrAndersonGCC
Got power to fuse #9 straightened out by wedging some rubber next to the fuse copper prongs (tip: golf grips are great for this…use the rubber down by the shaft where it’s thinnest).
This is a VERY valuable tip. This is quite a common failure mode, and all sorts of fused circuits are prone to the trouble. The fuse box looks OK, and the fuse tests OK, but there is no current passing because the clip is no longer sprung enough.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2021 | 01:55 AM
  #31  
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The early glass fuse boxes are prone to just thät kind of failure. Sorry I didn't mention it earlier. Cleaning/sanding terminals, and using Deoxit will usually make them work for awhile. Many have changed the boxes out for blade style fuses. One approach is on Bernard Embden's website, here:
https://www.bernardembden.com/xjs/
Doing this is a long term plan of mine.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2021 | 08:34 AM
  #32  
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Jal/Greg - thanks for all your help, I'll take a crack at repairing my switch today. Fingers crossed I can put it back together!
 
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