Hello All.

I have my rear cage dropped and when I took it apart 2 of the 8 (#21) retainer springs were missing (lost them??? 😤😤&#128548. I looked online where they are called an "oil seal retainer".

Looks like the diff was replaced at some point. 2.88diff.

Anyways, I like the set up,,, things were actually in pretty good shape at all 8 joints, wishbone mounting points, even the ones where the retainers were missing,,, but it is a fiddly thing to put back together, which I have. Still,

Before I completely button everything back up, reinstalling the cage (I'm still waiting on ebrake parts), I'm wondering if there is some alternative to this,,, what is it,,, a 32part set up??? Is there a single poly bush or rubber, even? An alternative that doesn't require as many little bits might be nice.

Also, if not, is there a best way people have found at getting the wishbone mounting pins, sleeves etc etc etc together in a way that's not so,,,,, fiddly?

 

There is no alternative. the inner fulcrums need all the pieces to work properly over time. This outer ring goes round the outside of the rubber grease seal, and has to be there. 18,19, 20, and 21 all go together like a cross section through a swiss roll, and are held in place by the large flat washer 22 against the wishbone eye. When I do it I have a helper, thank goodness, and I stick all the bits together with lashings of grease, then while one person holds it all in place, the other taps through the pin, holds the ishbone and then the spacer tube in place, then repeats the other side of the wishbone as the pin gradually gets driven through. As long as the dog bones are good and tight, the shims are undisturbed and have not been loosened, it should all go fine. If the shims are lost and the dog bone needed tightening, then you must set that up first, so that the cage holes and the dog bone holes all perfectly align for the pin, before doing any wishbone remounting

 

Same here, but my helper is ME, and beer.

Soooooo, I made some short "dummy" shafts for the eye of the wishbone, and as the real shaft is tapped thru the first section, that "dummy" falls out and then the tube is inserted, and tap away until the other end, and simply push that "dummy" out.

I also use wheel bearing grease, as it is stickier that standard stuff.

The pre set of the dogbones as Greg mentioned takes longer, and when it is right, those shafts simply side in with a firm hand push. If you need to BASH them in, the shimming is wrong, so start again, and pay attention.

 

Damn Greg.... You're amazing! Thank you so much for the speedy (knowledgeable) answers...

Ok. Im going to order new the 2 new outer rings right now. And 8 new seals... Then put everything back together... Put an ad in CList for a "helper", lololol...

Another question since I have ya... Is there a best way to shim a differential speedO sensor? The sensor that fits into the diff housing? I have shims for the old and new,,, the old speedometer set up I've gotten to give a reading. Replaced on dash Speedo x2 and the little box in the boot x2. This is my first new sender.

This is my diff number EBC9429-28...


Also,,, don't laugh at me, but I lost control of the balance of the damn thing on my jack, she tipped just right (and for long enough) for every LAST drop of diff oil to spill out THRU the SpeedO sensor hole, lol... I've been laughing at myself. I was going to change it anyways!!! So there! Haha...

I did loosen the full plug - where's the REAL drain plug? Is it the small bolt bottom dead center on the bottom of the diff? In that space in the bottom plate? And,,, what diff oil do YOU use in yours?

 

The part numbers match. EBay says they won't fit. The book says they are right. C17213

Look at this on eBay
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F333060175955

 

HELLOOOOO Grant.
I been gone toooo long!

There's no words. You all are such an amazing source of experience on this site. I am so thankful for yourz help!

 

They be WRONG, and they are usually wrong with their application lists. No idea where they find that stuff.

Same set up since the E, and my MK X and Real S Type are the same also. Jaguar did not reinvent the wheel when it rotated just fine.

 

Seems like a damn good deal,,, if it is one... In reference to those eBay parts,,, see this...

I like gooooood deals..



Seems like the same thing...

 

Also,,, I've realized how flexible the cage cover/surround is before being bolted down. Should make my next attempt at rightening everything up go a little easier...

I can be a dumb ***. I'm just going to go ahead and order a set of new seals from the site. See if they have my missing rings, too...

 

JJJ
Just make sure the needle bearings and the rubber seals that go inside the rings you are buying, are all in good shape. If not you can buy a kit with all the new bits you need in it, albeit a bit pricey. But as long as the rubber seals are not actually broken, and the needle bearings not missing needles, they will be OK.
As to the diff: if you have a bolt under the cast part of the diff bottom, that is the drain plug. DANA diffs do not have a drain plug, but the Salisbury diffs do. Jaguar used both sorts. Fill it with Castrol special LSD oil: Castrol Syntrax LSD 75W-140
https://www.oreca-store.com/huile-po...SABEgJj1fD_BwE
or USA equivalent, but is MUST be LSD oil not normal diff oil.
As to the diff falling off the jack, we have all done it!
Greg

 

When I redid my inner fulcrum bearings I as quite surprised at the parts cost, and surprised how BAD the old parts looked. I mean the bearings were seized and then worn oval, everything was a rusty mess. Really they shoodnt be allowed to get that bad but I bet many cars are just as bad. I had already bought the parts so I put them in, but next time I’m going to try the bearingless solid bronze version from here:

Team CJ system bronze

 

You beat me to it. Norman Lutz does this to all Jaguar rear ends, it fixes the major design flaw with bearings in the fulcrum. Bearings are designed to rotate 360° not 10° like they are doing in the fulcrums. The small back and forth motion wears the needle bearings excessively.

For $160 I would install these.

 

That looks interesting; have you got any pics of them installed Warren?
I think it is worth adding that regular and frequent greasing is the key here, when I rebuilt my rear end last year, the bearings I put in in 2001 were perfect. But I reckon I grease the rear end every 2 or 3 thousand miles, or more. The same will go for the bronze ones I presume?

 

Sorry Greg I don't have pics. My rear end still has needle rollers. I will pulling the diff to go back to 2.88 when I put the 6.7L in I am going to install the bronze bushes then.

 

Hmm.

I didn't know (if I got a dime every time I said THAT) that the bearings were anything I should be paying close close close attention to, although I did eyeball them. They looked good, silver (with a coat of dark grease), the sleeve (don't know the name of the part) had no wear worth mentioning... she Sat for 10years I Understood! I took a rag to them and shined them up (as best I could) all the little parts,,, and me,,, I was blown away at how nice they looked... The rubber seals were all intact,,, even the ones that didn't have the skinny spacer around the outside...

I intend to test the grease nipples. Hopefully I won't have to install new ones. I fear the SHEAR!!! Ots what sets me back on the Porsche (cam cover right now),,, the xk8 - all kinds of horror underneath,,, but, again, not so much on the XJS... But it scares me.

I installed the pads on my ebrakes today (are there any secrets I should know???? about the self adjusting mechanism???) and intend to drop the cage again (I have to partly reassemble everyday I work) tomorrow and install.

I can't afford it right now. Things will wait til I can.

Installed power steering pump today and my carpets are on the way. Getting closer!

Greg, thanks for the diff oil info. QQQUESTION - is it a horrifying choice to go with a cheaper brand? Will I pay for it down the line or will it function poorly?



I have more work to do here. Remove that main pin,,, clean it up and add a new pin to hold it.

 

Isn't 75W-140 rather heavy? The specs I have seen call for either 90 or 80W-90.

 

Any brand will probably do, as long as it is LSD oil (ie oil for a limited slip diff).
Those hand brake callipers are not assembled correctly, those knurled-looking things sticking out of the casing should be inside and not visible. They are part of the self-adjusting mechanism and that needs to be correctly put together and working properly before the calllipers are reinstalled. The callipers come apart by removing a pin from the casing halfway down the inside side, by the way.

 

Thanks for the reply on the Diff Fluid. I will go cheaper. Have to.

And the calipers... I never removed the pins or took them much more apart (I was intending to) than what you see. The photo you sent looks as tho there is some cover over that area I don't have and, from memory (at work right now) that's where the "dials" sit. Maybe the pin is all gummed up in the shaft amd I REALLY need to get in there and make sure everything is freed up!?!? Thank you so much for the advise! I will look into it, Greg. Thanks so much

Oh, and... Any ideas on how to properly shim a diff mounted speedO sender unit? How does one measure the gap,,, when one can't see the bloody gap? Do I lightly hold the sensor and spin wheels by hand and shim until I cannot feel the diff gear tapping (lightly and slowly) the sensor tip??? This question has been keeping me up at night... Maybe I'll start a thread!

Thanks again!