Hi Guys

Any known issues / problems?
Anything to look / beware of?
Which years are the "best" years to buy?

THANKS

 

See the buyers guide and the XJS Book, here:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...k-links-20089/

 

Agreed.

Also "Experience in a Book" which is a FREE download from this site.

Then YOU will need to find:

Sense of humour
Language you never knew existed.
Hand cleaner, HEAPS, ya going to get DIRTY.
Ability to consume alcohol and maintain the work load.
Did I mention a sense of humour.
VERY patient spouse, REALLY.
You MUST aquire the XJ-S "smile", you will understand once you drive it.

All in all you will enjoy EVERY minute of a V12 XJ-S, and I have had a few.

They are "older" now, EXTREMELY neglected (no matter what the seller says), many, many service items have NOT had attention for 20 years at least, so "catch up" is a priority. To obtain one and turn the key and drive it is a dream in near all cases.

Once sorted, they are the BEST car on the road without doubt. They as reliable as any Brand you could name, ONCE SORTED.

 

The first thing to look for is your own expectations.

If you're game to work on the car yourself and learn all its lovely charms and quirks, you are good to go.

If you are more inclined to have a pro take care of it, make sure you have a great relationship with a shop who knows the cars and likes working on them, and that you will be happy sending their kids to the finest universities on your dime.

 

Did anyone mention a very 'Big Wallet' Full of folding stuff.

 

which years considered the "best" years to buy?

Thanks

 

That's slightly subjective depending on whether or not you are a fan of the original design or the updated "facelift" models. For me personally, I'm a fan of the original design and it's final production year (1990 in California, 1991 for everywhere else). The 1996 models are often considered the 'most sorted' and the 6.0 V12 is the most refined version of the engine.

There are also some good arguments for pre-Marelli ignition cars, and outside of the U.S. the early six cylinder manual transmission cars are sought after.

I'd start first with your preference of original vs. facelift designs, then go from there.

 

Buy the Best one that you can afford, or you'll never stop throwing 'Money' at it.

Buying the Car in the First place, is often the easiest part but you could very easily, spend that much over again, in getting it properly running and up to muster.

 

Is there a know issues in specific years?
Are there any years i should avoid ?
My questions are mechanic / reliability wise ( I do like the "original" body style)
thanks

 

What exactly do you mean by "catch up" - lets say I bought a nice car - what services should I do to "catch up"?

THANKS

 

That list is LONG.

Basically, these cars have become the "spare" a very long time ago.

The factory maintenence did not change, BUT, it did not get done.

So, many years later, you want it, sweet.

ALL the rubber components, and I mean ALL the suspension bushes, mounts, etc will need attention.

ALL the hoses, whether water, fuel, oil, brake will need REPLACING.

ALL the fluids, and that means coolant, engine oil, trans fluid, brake fluid, diff oil, steer fluid, need CHANGING. Then the leaks that will develop will need your utmost attention.

The fuel tank may have rusted, most USA cars have this as a freebie for the new owner.

The fuel pump may be noisy, nothing special, but another $100.

The radiator will be near the TOP of the "to do list", as are many other cooling system items.

Overheat a V12 (and it will happen in less than a heartbeat), and the cost will equal the election budget (nearly).

If you locate a car that an enthusiast currently has, and is still using it semi regularly, then you are 75% there.

A car that has only been driven on Sunny days, may be great looking, but under the shine, oh boy.

When I got my 1985 Red Devil, in 1994, I had looked for a while, and found a car with FSH (Full Service History), hahaha, that is a joke. When I got it home, it went up on 4 jack stands, and the work began. A month later I drove it again, and it was sooooo sweet. I found many, many things that needed attention, nothing serious in the big scheme of things, mostly what I mentioned above, but I decided to DO IT ONCE, DO IT PROPERLY, and repeat in 20 years.

There is NO magic answer, or formula, it is a case by case thing.

If YOU are doing the work, much easier, and cheaper.

IF, you are PAYING someone, good luck, as I know of only a handfull of mechanics in Australia who will even LOOK at one of these. They simply are being honest, coz they really know nothing about them, and that is fact.

 

Love my 89 xjs. Had less than 50k when purchased. About 2 years to sort out major issues. Rear end removed for rebuilt calipers (only way to take them out) Rebuilt rear end at same time (just a few hundred bucks diy). Rebuilt power steering system and hoses. Work on ABS. Etc, etc. Lots of brown fluid taken in during the process. Got tired of finding band aids and just let it drip on the floor for the job in hand...on my second parts car. All windows and systems are great. small leak in ac, maybe next year. Also love my "new" 02 XKR and looking forward to having to diy the 50k mile service and to get to know her better !!! These forums have 99 percent of your answers and the other 1 percent are saved for you to work out !!! If older, like me, may I suggest a lift if you have ceilings tall enough in the garage. You will be going "underneath" a lot !!!!
Ken in WV

 

Original design 1990 XJS is and always has been my favorite and that is why I own one. Just make sure everything works and see if the sellers have any and all maintenance records. Run a Carfax report...Buy the nicest one you can afford and you will be happy. I was lucky to buy from the original owner through a friend of mine, who is one of the largest collectors in the US. He knew what to look for and set up my purchase. I have all records dating back to 1990. I got lucky and I hope you also do. Good luck...

 

thanks guys

 

Check the Radiator, for any of that 'Product' designed to Stop Leaks.

Brown stuff round the filler, when you take off the Cap the most obvious sign.

Not that easy to flush out of all the Waterways inside the Engine, many on here including me, would walk if I found that.

You need at least a 15 minute Test Drive (longer if possible) to make sure that She is not over heating, or it could be a sign that the Engine has been Cooked!

No way back from that, so best to Walk!

Make sure that the Engine Fan (has no cracks) or budget for a replacement and maybe a new Fan Clutch.

The Fan should be kicking up a Storm, enough to flatten grass and should Stop Dead in its tracks, when the Engine is Switched off.

But do that Test before Warm Up.

After the Engine is up to Temp, The Fan should then keep running, when the Engine is Switched off for 5 to 10 Mins.

To cool the Engine down, as it will get hotter than when it was running, so you need that 5 or 10 Minutes, to Cool it down.

The ABS light should be on, when you turn the Key and go off when the Engine is running.

Don't fall for the 'Probably needs a new bulb routine' If the above doesn't happen, then you may have a problem much bigger than you think.

In the Shape of a malfunction in the Valve Block of the ABS. (no longer available)

When out on a Test Drive, ask the owner if he would mind if you 'Jabbed the Brakes'

As you need to make sure the Valve Block on the ABS is working properly.

You need to do this on an empty road at Low Speed, as if one of the ABS Valves is Stuck, then there is every chance that the Car will take a very Violent Dive to the Left or Right and even try and ****** the Wheel out of your hand.

This doesn't normally happen under gentle progressive Braking but usually only if you Jab the Brakes, like in a sort of Emergency Stop Situation.

No need to do an Emergency Stop or even come to a halt, just 'Jab them' a few times.

Make sure the Hand Brake is working and that the Rear Rotors are not Worn, or it will be an 'Out Job' for the IRS.

It also goes without saying, that lots of work involved if She needs re-bushing.

Also Check the Power Steering for Leaks, as you 'May' have to lift the Engine up to replace one of those pipes, if it is leaking.

Replacing the Oil Cooler if its leaking, can also be a difficult and Expensive PIA.

 

Yep I can attest to this, I paid $7.5k AUD for mine with almost no rust and a good interior, then spent another, I stopped counting at $10k and I did ALL the work myself.

So you have 2 options pay good $$ for one that is pristine from a Jaguar club member, or buy one buy a cheaper one and be prepared to spend some $$ bringing it up to scratch.

As long as it has a good interior, body and no rust. Bringing the mechanicals up to scratch is cheaper than paint and interior.

 

one more questions

Any specific years to avoid due a known issues / faults?

THANK YOU guys

 

I can't think of any specific model year warnings.

1987 model year and older (in USA terms) excludes the sometimes problematic electric "mouse track' seat belts.

1988 has heated seats with power lumbar adjust and some other minor features (heated mirrors and such)

1989-later model year brought ABS brakes, air bags, factory alarms, and other features.

All of these things are potential additional failure points. Personally, I wouldn't let the extra equipment stop me from buying 'the right car' but some DIYers abide the 'less to go wrong' thinking. Nothing wrong with that.

Cheers
DD