no it just gets its 12v power from the same circuit as the signals and brake, so when one of them shorts you lose it all.

 

I second this... the TPS is getting a voltage increase which tells the ECU to increase fueling but the blades haven't even opened yet if there is slop in the linkage.

 

Word of caution required when the TPS is mentioned ...

I have examined and found wanting the design of these things.

1 : An improperly configured throttle capstan can turn more than 90°
2 : A TPS cannot, it is mechanically constrained to 90° of movement.

If you get these things out of position in relation to one another too much you WILL break the spindle in the TPS, the idle position will forever be eratic. These things are in a hostile environment, they get brittle with age and don't take much provoking to break, under no circumstance should you attempt to remove it unless you're sure it is busted already - because if it isn't it soon will be. The clamp that binds the TPS to the capstan spindle is uber tight and the spindle lets go before the capstan does.

I have mine on the bench because in the idle position the resistance was eratic and not repeatable consistently - yep my TPS spindle was busted, undid the three bolts and it just fell off. It is now superglued, backfilled with epoxy and functional again - but I learned a lot about it in the process. If you undo the three bolts and it doesn't fall off - put the bolts back in, make sure you leave them slack while you figure out how the rotations work - you do not want to clamp this thing down then rotate the capstan (opening throttle) past the point that the TPS can cope.

I'm almost tempted to say that the TPS adjustment process is somewhat flawed, I for one will be ensuring that my max throttle can never allow more rotation than the TPS can handle (by measuring the resistance of the TPS in its max and min rotation positions) - don't care if that's the right way or not.

I need to study the wiring diag to see if battery voltage plays a role in the min voltage setting - would be illogical to use battery voltage as a power source since it varies but I'm not assuming that 'they' didn't - I hope it is a properly regulated DC source - edit - seems to come from the ECU.

 

It's 5 volts from the ECU

Cheers
DD

 

Sorry. Your right.

Thing is there aren't really any photos, per se.

After the old wiring broke and feel off at the point where the wire is secured to the unit itself (a very dense material which fills the area where to basic spade connections live) I simply plugged it in and immediately it SEEMED to start doing it's thing. Idle changed a bit an I don't have that (loong chased issue) of a DIP and hesitation when mashing the accelerator at a light or when starting out. Something else seems a bit different as well but I would have a hard time describing it. Car seems to be running even better, overall. But I've learned to be careful saying (or typing) that out loud.