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Hi, I replaced the Right front brake hose on my 15 xk, now when trying to bleed brakes left side of the car bleeds, but the Right dies not. Background: I lost brakes because of a bad hose, towed the car home, but had lost fluid and the low fluid light was on. After replacing the bad hose and bleeding with lots of bubbles, the pedal was still going to the floor, also now the stability control light was on. I drove it to the shop snd the tried ABS bleed, but only one side of the car would bleed. My guess is they do not know what they are doing.
Last edited by Ken D; Oct 22, 2023 at 11:09 AM.
Reason: Typo
Have you tried disconnecting the hose from the caliper and see if you can get flow?. Could be the bleed nipple is blocked. Remove the nipple and see it there is any flow.
You will probably need to follow the brake lines, see if something is pinched off.
OR, maybe to a reverse pressurized bleed, use one of these, which is much better than the Stomp and Squirt method anyway:
Has it bled sucessfully - fluid with no air ejected from each of the bleed screws (and especially the front where the hose issue started) under pedal pressure? If so, you should have a normal brake pedal action with the engine running to build up and maintain vacuum assist. If it's spongy, there's still air in the system and it needs bleeding starting with the rear RH (your passenger side).
If you can't bleed an individual caliper or one side, the most likely culprit is the HCU/ABS unit having stuck or failed solenoid(s). It's the only component deliberately designed to restrict fluid flow in the braking system.
I'd think there would also be no action on the calipers with the pedal depressed, as in Braking while driving. Then a hard pull to the other side doing so.
Has it bled sucessfully - fluid with no air ejected from each of the bleed screws (and especially the front where the hose issue started) under pedal pressure? If so, you should have a normal brake pedal action with the engine running to build up and maintain vacuum assist. If it's spongy, there's still air in the system and it needs bleeding starting with the rear RH (your passenger side).
If you can't bleed an individual caliper or one side, the most likely culprit is the HCU/ABS unit having stuck or failed solenoid(s). It's the only component deliberately designed to restrict fluid flow in the braking system.
Graham
Graham - where are you getting those nice pics from - I checked 4.2 and 5.0 manuals in the stickies, nothing like the one you posted.
Proper procedure is to bleed the wheel farthest from the master cylinder first. Then the next farthest. It guarantees the removal of all the air from the lines. Some people pump the pedal a few times prior to opening the bleed screw.
JLR used to provide the each of the Workshop Manuals as a single PDF but for some time now they have been in individual sections to discourage anyone downloading the whole thing and distributing or selling them as was happening with the likes of JagDocs. It was around 2000 separate PDF's for the two Workshop Manual's so it demands extreme persistence to copy.
JLR used to provide the each of the Workshop Manuals as a single PDF but for some time now they have been in individual sections to discourage anyone downloading the whole thing and distributing or selling them as was happening with the likes of JagDocs. It was around 2000 separate PDF's for the two Workshop Manual's so it demands extreme persistence to copy.
I think they just rip it from TOPIX.. the manual I received is the Jaguar manual, in one 6500-page PDF with a completely indexed table of contents and is fully searchable. The site felt a little bit 'scammy' so I used a burner credit card (pre-paid cards I use for high-risk transactions) and I decided $100 or whatever it was would be OK if it wasn't delivered... but it all worked smoothly and I had my workshop manual maybe an hour after I pulled the trigger.
No idea what models they can cover, but maybe chuck your VIN in and see what shows up?
As it says in their description "This service is labour intensive and so we aim to deliver your unique customised manual within 24 hours." The detail of the content confirms it can only be sourced from TOPIx.
It certainly is labour intensive. Downloading from TOPIx creates all the individual PDF's with the same name so they have to be renamed and combined to create a single indexed PDF. I used the full Adobe Acrobat application to do this. Provided they supply everything, it's a good deal at the price.
“Bleeding” brakes
