2007 NA dead on my drive
The problem with a battery with a resting voltage of just 12.4 volts is that it has either lost some of its rated cold cranking amperage capacity or it is not being properly charged by the alternator and ECM. With a battery in that condition, the voltage while cranking is likely to fall below 11 volts and the amperage may be insufficient to rotate the starter or to properly power the ECM and other critical modules. This can trigger all manner of random diagnostic trouble codes in multiple modules. Some circuits are more sensitive than others.
I would suggest having your battery and charging system tested with a professional analyzer.
A common cause of insufficient battery charging is corrosion on the many battery power and ground connections between the battery in the boot and the alternator and starter in the engine bay. The corrosion that forms on the aluminum eyelet terminals, studs and nuts is a microscopically-thin layer of aluminum oxide, which is an insulator. It may be invisible to the naked eye, but collectively, the added resistance at many or all of the connections can prevent the battery from charging properly. Basic maintenance on Jaguars is to periodically go through all of these connections, disassemble them, clean them with a small brass-bristle brush and zero-residue electronic contact cleaner (I use CRC brand), dry, then reassemble. Note that the torque spec for the aluminum nuts is very low at just 6.5 ft. lbs., which is barely more than hand tight. Many of our members have snapped ground studs off of the body by overtightening the nuts. The first thing I usually check is the engine ground strap, which sits in a vulnerable position and becomes corroded and/or contaminated with oily gunk.
Cheers,
Don
I would suggest having your battery and charging system tested with a professional analyzer.
A common cause of insufficient battery charging is corrosion on the many battery power and ground connections between the battery in the boot and the alternator and starter in the engine bay. The corrosion that forms on the aluminum eyelet terminals, studs and nuts is a microscopically-thin layer of aluminum oxide, which is an insulator. It may be invisible to the naked eye, but collectively, the added resistance at many or all of the connections can prevent the battery from charging properly. Basic maintenance on Jaguars is to periodically go through all of these connections, disassemble them, clean them with a small brass-bristle brush and zero-residue electronic contact cleaner (I use CRC brand), dry, then reassemble. Note that the torque spec for the aluminum nuts is very low at just 6.5 ft. lbs., which is barely more than hand tight. Many of our members have snapped ground studs off of the body by overtightening the nuts. The first thing I usually check is the engine ground strap, which sits in a vulnerable position and becomes corroded and/or contaminated with oily gunk.
Cheers,
Don
It showed up in a farm equipment auction 7.8 miles away from my house. How could I resist?
Last edited by Don B; Apr 18, 2026 at 07:43 PM.
Tony,
The way Autel scan tools display the DTCs when you select a specific module, the module you have selected is no longer displayed, just the DTCs stored in that module. So I can't tell which codes were stored in the BCM and which were stored in the ECM and TCM. But I suspect that one or more of the codes stored in the BCM or ECM is related to your no-crank issue.
I do not believe the Parking Brake Module has anything to do with the no-crank unless something about its wiring has caused an issue in one or both junction boxes that have DTCs stored.
Have you checked all the fuses in all of the fuseboxes? When you attempt to clear the DTCs, which ones will not clear?
BTW, some of the information that has been posted about battery voltage and module function is not correct. For example, if the voltage sags below about 10.5 volts while cranking the starter, the ECM will not trigger the ignition to fire even if the starter motor turns...
Also, battery resting voltage is just one measure of a battery's State of Health. Another even more important one is Cold Cranking Amps capacity, which can be measured with a good battery analyzer.
Cheers,
Don
The way Autel scan tools display the DTCs when you select a specific module, the module you have selected is no longer displayed, just the DTCs stored in that module. So I can't tell which codes were stored in the BCM and which were stored in the ECM and TCM. But I suspect that one or more of the codes stored in the BCM or ECM is related to your no-crank issue.
I do not believe the Parking Brake Module has anything to do with the no-crank unless something about its wiring has caused an issue in one or both junction boxes that have DTCs stored.
Have you checked all the fuses in all of the fuseboxes? When you attempt to clear the DTCs, which ones will not clear?
BTW, some of the information that has been posted about battery voltage and module function is not correct. For example, if the voltage sags below about 10.5 volts while cranking the starter, the ECM will not trigger the ignition to fire even if the starter motor turns...
Also, battery resting voltage is just one measure of a battery's State of Health. Another even more important one is Cold Cranking Amps capacity, which can be measured with a good battery analyzer.
Cheers,
Don
Last edited by Don B; Apr 18, 2026 at 08:05 PM.
Tony,
The way Autel scan tools display the DTCs when you select a specific module, the module you have selected is no longer displayed, just the DTCs stored in that module. So I can't tell which codes were stored in the BCM and which were stored in the ECM and TCM. But I suspect that one or more of the codes stored in the BCM or ECM is related to your no-crank issue.
I do not believe the Parking Brake Module has anything to do with the no-crank unless something about its wiring has caused an issue in one or both junction boxes that have DTCs stored.
Have you checked all the fuses in all of the fuseboxes? When you attempt to clear the DTCs, which ones will not clear?
BTW, some of the information that has been posted about battery voltage and module function is not correct. For example, if the voltage sags below about 10.5 volts while cranking the starter, the ECM will not trigger the ignition to fire even if the starter motor turns...
Also, battery resting voltage is just one measure of a battery's State of Health. Another even more important one is Cold Cranking Amps capacity, which can be measured with a good battery analyzer.
Cheers,
Don
The way Autel scan tools display the DTCs when you select a specific module, the module you have selected is no longer displayed, just the DTCs stored in that module. So I can't tell which codes were stored in the BCM and which were stored in the ECM and TCM. But I suspect that one or more of the codes stored in the BCM or ECM is related to your no-crank issue.
I do not believe the Parking Brake Module has anything to do with the no-crank unless something about its wiring has caused an issue in one or both junction boxes that have DTCs stored.
Have you checked all the fuses in all of the fuseboxes? When you attempt to clear the DTCs, which ones will not clear?
BTW, some of the information that has been posted about battery voltage and module function is not correct. For example, if the voltage sags below about 10.5 volts while cranking the starter, the ECM will not trigger the ignition to fire even if the starter motor turns...
Also, battery resting voltage is just one measure of a battery's State of Health. Another even more important one is Cold Cranking Amps capacity, which can be measured with a good battery analyzer.
Cheers,
Don
these are the codes that wont clear
P0051-00
p0036-00
p0056-00
U0415-00
P0504-00
P0500-82
P0504-00 Brake Switch A/B correlation - I will take a look at that this morning
Can you post the definitions for each code from your scan tool? It also helps if you post which module is reporting each code, since some codes can be reported by multiple modules.
Last edited by Don B; Apr 19, 2026 at 11:00 AM.
I don't see that you have posted any of these codes previously. Is that right? They are not among those you showed in your post #12.
Can you post the definitions for each code from your scan tool? It also helps if you post which module is reporting each code, since some codes can be reported by multiple modules.
Can you post the definitions for each code from your scan tool? It also helps if you post which module is reporting each code, since some codes can be reported by multiple modules.
I cant believe how flaky these cars are - Im, not wasting another day on it lifes too short!
So i getting it towed to a jag Indy for one was last chance before it goes to be broken!
You do not need to disconnect the positive battery cable - the battery is out of circuit when you touch the negative cable to the positive cable.
Good call to take it to a professional. Please keep us informed.
Cheers,
Don
Last edited by Don B; Apr 19, 2026 at 03:29 PM.
A battery disconnect won't do much. A hard reset is accomplished by disconnecting the battery negative cable and then touching it to the positive battery cable terminal for at least two minutes. Longer is better. This drains the keep-alive-memory capacitors in various modules and can reset some of the modules, though it won't cure any hard faults.
You do not need to disconnect the positive battery cable - the battery is out of circuit when you touch the negative cable to the positive cable.
Good call to take it to a professional. Please keep us informed.
Cheers,
Don
You do not need to disconnect the positive battery cable - the battery is out of circuit when you touch the negative cable to the positive cable.
Good call to take it to a professional. Please keep us informed.
Cheers,
Don
Im getting towed today - so standby for a photo of it on a recovery truck!
Nobody listen to that information, it is not based in fact.
Thank you Cee Jay and I agree with guy above . If wrong information is not corrected it soon becomes fact as it's repeated over and over again. This is why Facebook and all social media are pure garbage as they run on the lowest, stupidest common denominator. Nobody wants to research to find the correct information.
Same with youtube. Yes there are some great and useful detailed repair videos but again everyone wants to be a star and post the most outrageous stuff possible to get some action going and draw more followers.
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Same with youtube. Yes there are some great and useful detailed repair videos but again everyone wants to be a star and post the most outrageous stuff possible to get some action going and draw more followers.
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wj
A factor of literally SIXTY isn't far off. Course, a 2012 or newer car adds a bit more effort.
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