So I've done some searching and found which pads to buy and posts indicating how easy the replacement is, but no step-by-step. I looked it up on Google and none of the videos match my R calipers. I've replaced pads on American cars in the past but these calipers have a much different design than what I've worked on.

Could someone kindly point me to a guide or video on replacing these pads?

Mine look like this:

 

Although I haven't done mine yet but I think it looks pretty straight forward. The trickiest part is removing and reinstalling the spring clip. Make sure when you pry it off you cover it with your hand so it doesn't fly off. Then go to the back of the caliper and remove the two rubber plugs. Inside the hole is the slides which you need a 9 mm (I think) allen wrench/socket. Remove both sliders. Then you can lift out the center section of the caliper. Also need to watch out for the wear indicator/wire. Pull the old pads and push in the piston. Reassemble and you're done. This is for non-alcon calipers.

 

Sadly, it isn't looking straightforward to me.

Is this the clip?

 

Yes , it needs to be pry'ed off and as I mentioned watch out because if you don't cover it , it will fly off. If you look at the back of this caliper you will see 2 rubber plugs as I mentioned above. The larger part of the caliper stays bolted to the chassis.

 

Don't you need to put the handbrake in service mode before changing pads?

 

Leave in neutral switch vehicle off and do not apply hand brake

 

Just follow these instructions for the front pads I know its a different Jag but there the same brakes

 

This is exactly what I needed! Thanks for the help!!!

 

Sorry as I assumed you did an internet search on Jaguar brake pad changes. Good luck.

 

Sorry, I thought it was the rear pads you needed changning!:-)

 

I've done replacement on both my XK and XKR. They have the base disks, not the Alcon option. (And... well... every car I have owned since the mid seventies... Shops NEVER touch my brakes, for lack of trust.)

Few additional things to note that were not mentioned in the video.

When you pull the slide pins out, you will see contamination from dust, or even possible rust. I tend to thoroughly clean and burnish them back to a shiny clean surface using Scotch-Brite Red (7447). I also run a thin strip of Scotch-brite through the caliper holes that the pins slide through by twisting it as I press it through. This cleans up the inside mating surface. Also a clean rag to wipe off the interior of the rubber boots (where you reinsert the glide pins through. Unlike the service manual, I coat the pins with a thin layer of high temp molybdenum grease, hence my extra attention to the entire slide pin assembly to avoid dirt contamination. Moly will prevent moisture/rust, and allow the caliper to function freely till your next disassembly.

Also noted, neither of my jags had a 'recessed' piston. My piston retraction tool (shown in the video) works perfectly.

When I have access to the rotor, and most certainly when changing pad compounds, I will wire wheel both sides or sandpaper them to remove the micro layer of the previous pads material. I want to be sure that when I 'bed' the new pads, that they do so properly. I tend to ignore this step if installing the same compound.

Once your pads are replaced, but before putting the wheel back on, this is also a great opportunity to flush your brake system, ensuring you have uncontaminated fluids. Also, look for any grease fittings, and add as needed. (When I replace things like tie rod ends, I tend to buy ones with fittings, as they have a much longer life than the 'sealed for life' pieces of junk.)

Pad bedding is a pain, but a 'must do'. With a good compound, I actually get nauseous having my insides being slammed forward so many times! Ugh...

BOL!
Vince