XK / XKR ( X150 ) 2006 - 2014

Another Reliability Question?

Old Apr 27, 2018 | 01:44 PM
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All,
Back in 2012 I inherited a beautiful 1996 Kingfisher blue Vanden Plas with only 21K mi. logged. The car now has 75K and has been flawless and still looks and drives new (garaged since new). Not one single issue. I change the fluids, installed ceramic brake pads to cut down on dust, and got new tires. I know the 95-97 XJ6 are considered one of the most dependable era's of all and I have seen it first hand as I would drive this car anywhere. I have been wanting a 2007 to 2009 XK (not XKR), preferrably blue/tan in the worst way and have decided to pull the trigger once the right example presents itself.
My question is, and I realize answers are opinions and will vary but will reliability and cost of maintenance vary greatly? I hope to avoid buyers/sellers remorse selling this proven car. Thanks.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2018 | 02:46 PM
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These cars will get very expensive to own if you can't do the labor yourself. Reliability is subjective; I had a Kia that was more reliable than my XKR, and Hondas and Toyotas that have been less reliable. As you're looking at a 10+ year old car, spend the money to have a tech look it over if you don't know what to look for. And with any used vehicle out of warranty... you don't know what you're going to get until you've already got it, so put away between $5,000 and $10,000 for anything major that comes up that your checking account can't comfortably cover.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2018 | 02:48 PM
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The 4.2L XK models when new were very reliable, but as they aged problems developed. Some owners in hot climates had their leather dash cover shrink and pull away from the edges and had the glass rear window in their convertible top separate from the fabric. Another common problem is the air conditioning condensate line would get clogged at the end (the "duckbill") and water would spill onto the carpet in the passenger compartment. Drivetrain components have been very reliable. Various electrical gremlins usually have been caused by a weak battery.

Your due diligence should focus on the maintenance history. Don't worry about high mileage if you have a complete history that shows everything done "by the book." Also, expect to replace rubber parts since they deteriorate over time, as well as mileage. A pre-purchase inspection from a Jaguar dealer to their CPO standards is worth the cost, as it will list the cost of necessary repairs that you can use to negotiate with the seller. Same for a paint and body inspection by a shop authorized by Jaguar to do aluminum repairs. If repairs were improperly done, fixing them can be very expensive.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2018 | 06:28 PM
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Thanks for your replies. I have been doing quite a bit of research for about a year now and know about the "duckbill" issue being a common one with the 4.2 as well as the water pump with the 5.0. Same with the dash and the need for a battery tender but it's good to hear that the drive trains are not as likely to be problematic. I know any older vehicle will need some attention occasionally (the key word being occasionally) and although I do have other vehicles, I just didn't know if a second car is needed due to the daily driver frequently being repaired. The XK coupe is one of the most beautiful cars I've ever seen but I've just had such a good experience with the 4.0 XJ I'd hate be disappointed.
I'm set on it so I guess I'll find out.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2018 | 09:27 PM
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The XK suspension will need periodic attention as the rubber deteriorates as a function of age (not odometer reading). My 2007 has logged 82K miles.

I've replaced the front steering tie rods, the rear stabilizer bar tie rods and the rear toe-in rods. The front lower control arms were previously replaced (based upon seeing the yellow plastic bushings that are currently installed).

Its not obvious whether the other control arms were previously replaced. However the rear lower control arms have split rubber bushings on the arm closest to the rear of the car, so those will require replacement at some point.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2018 | 07:46 AM
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Buy the //R and enjoy the full experience. Ride is a little firmer but the smiles per mile are far greater. And God bless you if you chose a coupe versus vert.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2018 | 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Ranchero50
Buy the //R and enjoy the full experience. Ride is a little firmer but the smiles per mile are far greater. ...
Absolutely right!

Originally Posted by Ranchero50
... And God bless you if you chose a coupe versus vert.
Absolutely wrong! You can't really enjoy the glorious sound of that exhaust unless the top is down.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2018 | 10:15 AM
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The lines of the coupe off set any noise pleasure in a convertible.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2018 | 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by F355c5
The lines of the coupe off set any noise pleasure in a convertible.
Greenhouse Hatch, just like a 1965 Barracuda.

Convertible lines are perfect, with OR without the top down.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2018 | 10:57 AM
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In my opinion it comes down to whether you will do the repair and maintenance yourself. If not, I would not touch ANY ten year old car. At 10 to 15 years old the rubber and plastic parts will start going away. Bushings will get brittle, belts, hoses, vacuum fittings, seals and etc. will start cracking and/or leaking. It does not matter if it is a Jaguar, Mercedes, Honda, or Lexus. Polymers deteriorate with time and temperature. Mileage does not matter.

(I am surprised that you have not had any plastic parts go on a '96. I have owned five Jags from the 90's and every one of them needed bushing when they were less than ten years old.)

If you don't mind fixing these items yourself these cars are a fun bargain. If you plan on paying someone to do the repairs you will not be happy with the XK, or any other ten year old car.

I have owned 13 Jags, so far. E-Types, V12 XJS's, XJ8's and, XK8's. I have bought them new, used, and abused. I have enjoyed, and hated, almost every one of them.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2018 | 11:53 AM
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davchr,

I apologize, I had forgotten I did replace (myself) both upper and lower radiator bushings on my 96 VDP.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2018 | 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Ranchero50
Buy the //R and enjoy the full experience. Ride is a little firmer but the smiles per mile are far greater. And God bless you if you chose a coupe versus vert.
Good point, even better get a 2010-up "R" and enjoy an instant 90hp gain over the older "R", plus lots of other enhancements.

Also agree about the Coupe, the roof lines, hips, and **** are just Sexier IMHO.

Happy Saturday,

Dave
 
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