Has anyone in here been able to perform any type of Disk or Rotor Upgrades on the stock 2014 XK's..

Do these upgrades even exist?

 

Has the rotor diameter changed between an '07 and a '14?
My 07 upgrade was childs play.
Are you going for a size upgrade or just improving on the OEM setup?

Search should find you some info, but I cant promise for your model year...

Before spending cash on a big brake upgrade, consider a decent set of performance pads and invest in good high performance tires. I think the Jag will impress you.

Remember > Brakes stop tires.... Tires stop cars....

 

Thanks CleverName, I am not sure but I definitely ca research if the diameter has changed or not.

I am looking for a size upgrade and if not available, then i will go for an improvement of an OEM setup.

I have done some searching but cant find any information that pertains to my year model but maybe I will search harder and compare the brake setup between the 07 and 14 . I seem to think that somethings changed in the car on the 2012 model but I am not sure.

 

I can't promise total accuracy, but here was a little research I did a few years back.
I see now our base rotors cannot be the same...

BOL

 

I guess I have a question regarding the brake packages available from Jaguar. Is the XK package the same as the XKR and for that matter is the XKR-S different from the XKR. Then the last question is what is on the GT. I was surprised at the size of the brake system on my XKR and unless you are planning a lot of track time I would think they are more then sufficient for the task.

 

I did not like the sponginess and stickiness of the brake/rotor package on my 2010 XKR after I purchased it about a year ago. I was looking at the package that a company in La Habra (I forget the name right now), CA that advertises on ebay, but my mechanic said he had a guy who provides Brembo rotors and will custom drill and slot them for very little money. Now, I don't know if they're really Brembo or not, but they are much better with none of that "stickiness" that I previously experienced. I have been on the track a couple of times with them and am very satisfied. If interested, I can get the specifics from my mechanic and pass it on including cost and specifications.

 

mellof,

You may want to consider using OEM Jaguar components instead of aftermarket.

My 2009 XKR Portfolio is equipped with the Alcon Performance Brake Package, a $5,000 option. That package includes 400mm front crescent-slotted rotors with 6-piston calipers and 350mm rear crescent-slotted rotors with 4-piston calipers, the largest ever fitted to a production Jaguar.

The Alcon Package should fit your 2014 XK, but you'll probably have to change brackets and possibly hubs, but I'm not positive so check with your Jaguar dealer. Also, changing the brake components might void the remainder of your warranty.


Alcon brake parts are still available from your Jaguar dealer. For example, here's the schematic from Gaudin Jaguar's website: BRAKE COMPONENTS for 2009 Jaguar XKR Scroll down to the second photo for Alcon components and prices (expensive).


There's a set of used 4 Alcon calipers (no rotors) from a 2009 XKR Portfolio for sale on eBay for $3,000 OBO: Jaguar Alcon Calipers Brakes XKR Portfolio 2007 2014 | eBay

I agree with jagtoes that unless you're going to track your car, the standard brakes should be fine.

Stuart

 

There have been several systems:

• 4.2 XK: 326 mm front & rear, single-piston floating
• 4.2 XKR: 355 mm front, 326 mm rear, single-piston floating
• 4.2 Alcon: 400 mm front, six-piston opposed, 350 mm rear, four-piston opposed
• 5.0 XK: 355 mm front, 326 mm rear, single-piston floating
• 5.0 XKR & R-S: 380 mm front, dual-piston floating, 376 mm rear, single-piston floating
• GT: 398 mm carbon-ceramic front, six-piston opposed, 380 mm carbon-ceramic rear, four-piston opposed

Floating callipers have pistons on one side only; the piston simultaneously pushes one pad onto its side of the disc and pulls the calliper and other pad onto the opposite side. Opposed callipers are fixed and have pistons on both sides, which separately push their pads onto the disc. So opposed callipers always have twice as many pistons, though they're usually smaller than in an equivalent floating system.

 

I'm going to try the stock calipers with:
Premium Cross Drilled & Slotted Brake Kit

I'll let you know. I really liked the brembos on the XJR... and there is a noticeable difference.

 

Wilwood or AP offer something that can be swapped in.

 

Im looking for an option to upgrade to the 380mm/380mm from my standard 355mm/326mm at the moment.

How does the regular 4.2 XKR accept these? Arent the hubs (ABS rings) and ABS ECU going to make some trouble when I just put on the 380mm floating caliper brakes from the XKRS?

 

Ok so. I am a new member but long time Jaguar owner ( 88Xj6, 95Xj12, 05Xkr, 14Xkr ) and forum follower to which I owe many Thank You! to All of you who post on here You have been such a great help through out the years.
So here is my first contribution. A brake upgrade Mod. specifically to the rotors to my 2014 MY. XKR.. I really like the looks of the X150 but what surprises me every time is how many more compliments it gets over my previous 05XKR. So here we go . Fist and foremost I have absolutely No affiliation with the company https://www.racingbrake.com by chance during an extensive search on the net I came across stated company, they only sold Jaguar upgraded /racing rotors for the XF , however after verifying the sizes through Jaguar part/s number look ups showed that the XKR ( ATI ) rotors are the same . Since the front rotors made the greater difference in weight, and performance I ordered them first. After about 3 months of driving ,and finding the quality to be very! good I decided to order the rear set of rotors, although not having the weight savings of the front they do have a more greater visual impact than the O.E.M.s .. So here are the pics (at Mums house ) they speak for themselves.
The initial price is Not cheap however after driving ( as I normally spirited do) for ~ 5 months ( 6,230 Mi. ) on the front ones the only wear I could gauge is the lack of the original black paint to the rotor surface. However having spoken with www.racingbrake.com ( Not easy to do but they did eventually call me back ) the rotor material is of a higher Brinell # and should last more than 2X the OEM rotor life. ( yes that mean they will wear the pads more ) so far I have not found their claims to be bogus if they last 2X longer than OEM then its an even better deal.
All in all; does the car look better ? YES!., Does it brake better ? Yes a bit ( that is because Jag brakes are already Very Very good to begin with )., Does it accelerate faster ?. Well my butt dyno cannot tell, but by Physics it should., Does it handle better?. Yes less steering wheel kickback when doing jerky/quick turns., Is the front end as bumpy as before when going over I& potholes ? No . It actually improved the ride. Do the vent slots fill up with pad material thereby becoming useless? No . not that Ive seen so far, they apparently either through wind or rain are self cleaning. All in all a good upgrade, and Im very pleased its well worth the money for me , as for you well that is you r money so your choice.

Original OEM. note the weight reading on the scale , and compare it to the https://www.racingbrake.com rotor

New rotor weight saving as advertised. The scale was 0'd ( zeroed ) each time.

Note that the slots on the new rotor are Not just cuts on the surface with then fill up and become useless, but these go through the rotor itself on both sides.

Driver side.

the rotors are labeled ,and are properly mounted to the correct side.

Looks good.

Cuts do go through as they should.

Rear rotor OEM V/S www.racingbrake.com rotor. Yes the rotor is silver painted

Comparison, rear rotors

Slight dia. difference hole to stud. So far no problem during driving. I found spacers/sleeves and will be mounting them in the future.

Rear passenger side.

Looks great. no rust.

 

So, the black will all wear off on the front? Why do they paint them at all then?

 

in the pictures the new discs look were the pads make contact look thinner if the are thats why there lighter

 

The OEM brakes from Jaguar are Already very very good, From my 88 XJ6 , 95XJ12, 05XKR, to my present 14Xkr these cars stop better than any other cars in their class that I have driven. So an upgrade is a much more challenging proposition. My suggestions are; 1) More aggressive pad material ( one having a higher coefficient of friction ) without going into racing compounds wich become more effective only when Hot. Recently placed Hawk brand HPS pads on my sons Honda S2000 , and my other sons 05 Xkr the stopping power was noticeably improved on both vehicles over the OEM pads. ( and yes I actually did stopping and fade test on a measured course ) naturally pads with an increased coefficient of friction will increase rotor wear .
2) Tires . Never ever purchase cheap tires ( if one is a 'ahem' spirited driver and not the proverbial old lady from Pasadena who does 10 Mph under the limit ) being that the brakes are only as good as the tires resistance to slippage on the road. Yes your pads will grip the rotor but your tires will not grip the road ,and the vehicle will skid thereby loss of control and probable accident. And no antilock/ABS will not cure that it can only limit it still far worse than having good tires.

 

I never asked the manufacturer why so. The paint is a very good epoxy type same as the hat to the rotor. The few reasons I can think of are 1) all new rotors are coated with something so to keep them from rusting., 2) Only the paint that comes in contact with the pad is removed . The paint that is not removed so far has kept the rotor from rusting . 3) It looks good.

 

Yes the rotor is a bit thinner. However! many factors come into play in rotor design. When doing my research ( engineering research ) into such I decided to take the 2 extremes, 1 everyday commuter car type rotors, and 2 all out racing rotors ( Not going into ceramic in this discussion ). These will be general requirements Not specifics.
Everyday rotors need to be thicker mainly due to the nature of the constant wear from the ongoing stop, and go, and stop again driving, and not necessarily because of the amount of power from the engine that the rotors need to convert into heat upon braking .
Conversely a racing rotor needs to be light ( less rotational mass wich is parasitic to the engine Hp.output ) and yet be able to safely convert the power from the engine
( actually vehicles mass and speed ) to heat upon braking . The solution to this is Wind / Airflow, same principle that is used with airflow trough a cars radiator . Hence as one can see from the pictures 10 The cooling vanes are larger. 2) The cooling vanes are circular. 3) The slots go through the rotor , all to increase the heat soaking capacity of the thinner rotor.
Having said that it is important to realize that when a car manufacturer designs a car it is for use in a variety of situations, from stop and go traffic to highway driving
so the design of the rotor in this case call for a jack of all trades, and not any specific. Hence the rotor on our cars.
The way/method used by https://www.racingbrake.com to address the wear caused from stop and go traffic is the use of a higher brinell# steel . Since in stop and go traffic there is less airflow. Hope this sheds some light onto your question . Take care!

 

Yes they are thinner, and yes the Aluminum hat makes the rotor lighter. Also for a better explanation see my other 2 replies on this date.

Take care

 

Yes . I had the same question and did find stuff. See my post and replies.