So just before I pull the trigger I thought I best ask all of you.

Despite the fun of engine revving on St Catherine in Montreal last year on the eve of the F1 (and yes, we were getting more glances than many other hot cars) It has cost me 2 catalytic converters. Runs fine now but won't pass the clean air test. Argh!

So, any experience with the DAVICO MANUFACTURING Part # 57212 and 57213?
Rock auto has them priced a mere fraction of any others I've found.

Thanks guys.

 

I have no idea of Ontario's smog laws, thus, it is impossible for me to say if that particular part number would be accepted.

Having said that, I recently helped a young student in replacing the cat converter on her California car. We had to pay more than double for the CA unit, even though the manufacturer stated that it was identical to other 49 state models, except, this one had the CA approval code stamped on it. My local smog person confirmed that he is required to look for that CA code number on replacement converters. I actually researched it through the posted CA Air Resources Board's public listings of acceptable part numbers.

Most new aftermarket converters should come with a warranty for passing the local smog tests for which the converter was purchased for. I would look for such warranty to take the risk out of the purchase.

 

well, this gets me thinking... the paramount performance cats are 1/2 the price of OEM. Has any one installed these?

 

The Paramount ones are 200 cell, same as Nameless Performance.

Guys in the UK have passed their MOT with 200 cell cats fitted, not sure how that compares to Canadian standards though...

How exactly did the car fail? Can you post up the test results for us to see?

Failed/collapsed/blocked cats usually means a loss of performance, if you aren't experiencing any performance defecit then maybe the failed smog is caused by something else?

 

As Cambo stated,
Typically if the cats are not working properly you will have a code thrown for inefficient catalyst. Did they test prior to the vehicle being warmed up?

Regards,
D. Fricke

 

Thanks guys.
Thats exactly what happened. Threw codes for efficiency on the RH catalyst.
Incidentally, the Davico Catalysts are 400 cell... very much cheaper yet again. Being that OEM is a 600 cell substrate I do expect more flow... Still investigating my options.

 

wanna sell me your bad/old cats? If so how much? Or anyone want to sell me their old/bad cats? (preferably 5.0L S/C versions)

 

Unless your cats are damaged I personally wouldn't replace it. I think the OEM ECU is too darn sensitive. Why can my Toyota cat still be working fine at 200k and a Jag's doesn't work for more than 50k? Install these on the secondary (downstream from the cat) oxygen sensors. Clear the code. DONE.
oxygen sensor spacer | eBay

 

There's two problems with that solution.

1. If you just use a spacer, the light will still come on eventually. You need to use a minicat to stop the code from being set. However there is a 2nd problem related to the use of minicats.

2. The downstream O2 sensors are also used to manage the closed-loop fuelling, if you put minicats on the ECU gets conflicting measurements from the upstream and downstream sensors, and takes a conservative (i.e. rich) fueling. Tests show that this also has some effect on the open-loop as well.

The only proper solution with Jags (and Land Rovers) is to change the settings in the ECU to turn off the catalyst-efficiency monitoring.

More info here https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...0/#post1210935

 

Well sure enough the secondary does in fact aid in closed loop fueling so ignore my first post. That being said I'd try new o2 sensors first. Probably due anyway. This is good info (about the secondary). I'll be reflashing mine at some point. I just had my bank 1 cat replaced at 45k by Jag under warranty. That's ridiculous that it only lasted that long.

 

It's my understanding that a number of manufacturers use the downstream O2 sensors to manage fueling. Moreso on late model vehicles.

I spoke with a couple of experienced tuners about this, nobody believed it.

But from my point of view;

- it was an ex-JLR engineer/technician who first told me about this
- it is mentioned in the technical guide
- we did tests on a real vehicle, with & without minicats, and the outcome of the tests strongly suggest it is true

Make your own mind up, but I am convinced.

 

Cats clog from oil, from excess fuel, from low temps, from sulfur deposits...at least two of these are more likely in an overpowered, gently driven car like most jags. No cat is delivering full flow at 200,000 miles and most are significantly degraded at 75,000. The fact that the Jaguar ECU can tell the difference should be welcomed - it is telling you what to do to restore full performance. Listen to it, buy new cats, enjoy the new car power all over again.

 

The cats on my XJR were choked up to the point where it felt like the car had lost 100hp, all done at 108'000 miles.

You can see more info in this thread ==>> https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...5/#post1201590

Replaced with 100 cell metal substrate cats, and wow it's like a new car.

 

Yup. The government is just now requiring manufacturers to try making cats that are supposed to last 100,000 miles. I have changed them out of many used cars that seemed ok beforehand. All performed like new afterwards. Normally they degrade so slowly you don't notice it happening, except by the sulfur smell when very hot.

 

And did just that. Thanks.

 

You're welcome, it should make a noticeable difference in throttle response. Enjoy!

 

Well, its all worked out very well. By merely installing new O2 sensors, 300 cell cats and performing a system reset I've passed the Ontario clean air test. No engine light. No codes.
And you're right. The response (and sound) is quite noticeable. The sound was enjoyed by the bystanders at the Montreal pre F1 street party.