Does anyone know the name of this electrical connector? My rear dampers are gone and I’m toying with getting a set of coil overs rather than the CATS (by blistein ) replacements. I know the system is good but I’d like to try something different. When I do change over I’ll get error messages. If I can find the name of the connector and the corresponding male plug I can make a plug and play cancel kit with a resistor without depinning the existing female plug. I’ve searched and searched google image upload and I can find loads of images even the LR replacement cable loom. But nowhere just gives a name of the thing. Anyway long shot but maybe someone knows…..

 

See attached for the connector

 

Thank you very much

 

@hafren what is your source document for the connector information?


Graham, a high magnification examination of the connector may show the manufacturer part number.
If there is a mate available, the mate/part number might be sourced through the part manufacturer catalog using the first part number.
connectorexperts.com may help. But a custom solution such as removing or replacing the original connectors may be a practical solution.

Keep us posted on the results of your suspension improvements.
You may be on to something.

 

Bill I recently discovered it from a post made by Sean W however the origins are this post online manuals by @McJag222 Its a fantastic source of information and while we all may have downloaded pdf workshop manuals and pdf electrical diagrams this source provides connector information under the Locations and Diagrams section.

 

Sorry for the late reply. So no male connector available so I made one.

I read somewhere that the suspension female plug was based on a jumper spacing like you get on pc motherboards. So an Amazon order and a bit of swearing later (I’m no electrician) job done. The male pins are very fiddly, you need a proper crimp tool and a resistor.

My blown shocks symptoms are over bridge movement joints at motorway speeds takes a couple of goes to settle. If this is on a curve it’s very unsettling. Thats why I’m looking to change coil overs for something different. I unplugged the connectors on all four corners and the shocks default to the firm setting which decreases the low speed ride quality but feels very impressive at higher speeds. This gives error codes obviously and the gearbox is reluctant to downshift aggressively in sport mode. So with these made up plugs and cables no errors and gearbox is back to normal.

So when I get coil overs I can run the car with no error codes.

In my very unprofessional opinion what’s happening is the active valves in my shocks aren’t working properly giving different damping across the four corners. But when the active valves are out of the equation I get equal stiff damping and the car is magic. If you’re bored you can try just unplugging the original connectors and go for a drive. Your mileage may vary depending on the roads where you are.

So I will get new shocks but I’ve got a L405 emptying my wallet with a broken gearbox and a L322 just waiting to go wrong.

Will update once I’ve got new shocks.

 

Hi,
I'm going to do the same, as I have fitted BC coil overs and would like to reinstall the CATS fuse and not get errors, what fuse value did you use?

 

I used 5 ohm 25watt resistors at each corner. They do run very hot and need to be attached to metal for heat dissipation. I’ve been driving for a couple of weeks in 50 degrees C and nothing has melted or gone on fire!

 

Maybe a 5 ohm 100 watt resistor then? They usually come with their own heat sink and are like four bucks.

 

The ones I’ve got come with their own heat sinks.

I’m no expert but I’m sure there is a formula somewhere with 12volts and whatever actual resistance the original dampers are would give you the right load resistor. But yeah I guess the bigger the wattage of the resistor can handle it would run cooler.

 

i think ADCM can be removed just by taking it out of the car config. a lot of overseas 06.5 cars weren't optioned with it at all