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This morning I took my 2007 XK convertible that I brought a few months ago to a detailing specialist to see what might be done about the stains in the top, which is tan. He said he could get some of them out but not he ones due to creases in the material. For them he recommended having the whole thing stained, saying then it would look new.
What do you guys think? Does he know what he is talking about?
Interesting idea, hadn't thought about that. Got a couple of marks on mine as well, in the folding area, that I've always blamed on the transporter's oily glove that he touch to the right hand C-pillar area.
Been meaning to get a toothbrush on it and see if I could work it out (if it really is oily dirt), but if that is not successful, I'd like to hear about a top dying alternative as well. Keep us posted as you explore this option.
I dyed my previous totalled XK top, but it was black. The previous owner must have had the top down the majority of the time (it was 4th car stored at his beach house) so the wear creases were very pronounced. Also, it was a bit faded.
I used the Renovo dye product which had great reviews online from Jag owners who had restored older cars. It definitely made the top a better color overall and the creases were less pronounced. But they are wear marks in the fabric, nothing will make that go away, if that is the goal dying will disappoint.
Overall I was very pleased as the top had a newer lustrous look, I did it myself and bought both the cleaner and the dye. My replacement XK has a tan top which is in very good shape so I haven't had to try out the brown version. My concern would be the same color brown, but I guess a shade or two different wouldn't matter.
Agreed, the Aerospace 303 water guard is a great product, once I had my top dyed I applied the next weekend. However, I disagree on the brush vs spray applicator. I tried the brush method and it really blew compared to spray. It took longer and used a LOT more product.
My method is simple, I made use some old sheets that I have saved to mask off the other areas with the top partially open, that way I can simply spray it on and not worry about any overspray. Even though I don't have any pictures of me doing this with the Jag I have done it the same way as with my BMW pictured below. When I get close to the open side windows I hold the sheet up to close off the cabin and prevent spray from entering (can't roll up the windows with the top partially open), also I back off the trigger to spray a bit easier for better control. On the rear glass window I use a cardboard and again use gentler spray action.
Open top to halfwary/service position, throw the sheets on, close it up 98% or so, then start spraying. Takes minutes and better utilizes the protectant!
This is a good point, it says on the bottle to apply in the sun. The day I first sprayed the Aerospace repellent on my top I did it outside, it was a bit windy and I think I lost half the product on every spray. Didn't realize until the end that I wasn't getting very good coverage. The next time I put it on in the garage and moved out into the sun to cure. Worked way better!
The reason I use the "paint brush" method is to get full penetration into the fabric grain of the top.
If you look closely at the top fabric, there are micro indentations in the fabric.
With the brush, no over spray, no wasted product due to the product blowing away even in a slight breeze and you will use just less than a full bottle.
I suggest the top be reconditioned in a garage then moved outside once completed.
Total cost about $17.00 to protect and bring the top back to a "like new" condition.
This should be done about every 9 months to one year.
Not trying to say your brush on method is not necessary, just offering up another method that I find just as effective. With spraying in the garage I can see the coverage as the product completely soaks the top, having a brown color it is very evident how well it is saturating the material since it gets much darker until it dries. Also, I get performance feedback on a daily basis as we rain every afternoon in Florida.
During rainy season I apply more often, usually every couple of months depending on when I notice the water isn't beading on the top in spots. Open the top a bit, throw on my sheet, give it a couple of spritz's, and off I go.
Not trying to say your brush on method is not necessary, just offering up another method that I find just as effective. With spraying in the garage I can see the coverage as the product completely soaks the top, having a brown color it is very evident how well it is saturating the material since it gets much darker until it dries. Also, I get performance feedback on a daily basis as we rain every afternoon in Florida.
During rainy season I apply more often, usually every couple of months depending on when I notice the water isn't beading on the top in spots. Open the top a bit, throw on my sheet, give it a couple of spritz's, and off I go.
Sounds like your method works for you. That is good.
Getting the periodic rain test is good, so you know the product is working. I feel the 303 is a fantastic product to use, and very low priced. It offers great protection.
I did the same as TampaMark with nothing but great results. Used a sheet to hide most of the glass and paint, sprayed it on, it wipes off the windows and paint very easily, but did mine outside with no wind. The results are that water beads right off as does dirt and the color of the top is dark black looking like brand new. Fantastic product! It's also a good idea to spray silicone lubricant on all the hinge points at that time to keep things in good shape once a year.
08-04-2016, 02:20 PM
Dying a Convertible Top
