Loud squeal from right hand side near radiator
My 07 XK X150 4.2 NA has a very pronounced squeal just after starting the engine. It goes away after 30-60 seconds. Alternator is new and all the pulleys, tensioners, water pump, drive belt, auxiliary coolant pump have been recently replaced. I've run out off ideas what is causing the noise. I'm hoping y'all might have an idea.
Details:
Noise occurs when engine is cold. It starts ~5 seconds after the engine starts. It goes away after ~60 seconds.
Higher RPMs don't change the sound.
Noise sounds like it's on the right hand side near the radiator/alternator.
Car is RHD.
If you turn the engine off before the squeal goes away, the noise continues for a second or two, sounding like something spinning down.
Pulling relay #3 under dash before starting engine has no noise. When car is running and plug in relay #3, noise occurs as above. So I assume the problem is on that circuit.
Air condition system was empty of gas.
What's been tried:
Belt dressing
Replacing tension, idler pully, water pump, hoses, auxillary coolant pump(attached to radiator).
Alternator was replaced almost 1 year ago. Noise was there before alternator was replaced.
Thanks much for any help or ideas of what to look at.
A
Details:
Noise occurs when engine is cold. It starts ~5 seconds after the engine starts. It goes away after ~60 seconds.
Higher RPMs don't change the sound.
Noise sounds like it's on the right hand side near the radiator/alternator.
Car is RHD.
If you turn the engine off before the squeal goes away, the noise continues for a second or two, sounding like something spinning down.
Pulling relay #3 under dash before starting engine has no noise. When car is running and plug in relay #3, noise occurs as above. So I assume the problem is on that circuit.
Air condition system was empty of gas.
What's been tried:
Belt dressing
Replacing tension, idler pully, water pump, hoses, auxillary coolant pump(attached to radiator).
Alternator was replaced almost 1 year ago. Noise was there before alternator was replaced.
Thanks much for any help or ideas of what to look at.
A
Belt dressings are never the fix. To pinpoint an issue, a stethoscope is your friend.
But without being there, I'd bet $1 that its a belt tensioner, the generator spindle, or something similar.
But without being there, I'd bet $1 that its a belt tensioner, the generator spindle, or something similar.
WJ
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Funny you should say that. The one detail I forgot to add was on my way home, I got a fault for the Secondary Air Injection Pump. I'd never seen that before hand.
How deep in the engine bay is it located? The radiator, fans, etc are out right now.
And is there only one? There was mention of one of the banks was running lean. is there one for each bank?
Greatly appreciate your insight.
How deep in the engine bay is it located? The radiator, fans, etc are out right now.
And is there only one? There was mention of one of the banks was running lean. is there one for each bank?
Greatly appreciate your insight.
Funny you should say that. The one detail I forgot to add was on my way home, I got a fault for the Secondary Air Injection Pump. I'd never seen that before hand.
How deep in the engine bay is it located? The radiator, fans, etc are out right now.
And is there only one? There was mention of one of the banks was running lean. is there one for each bank?
Greatly appreciate your insight.
How deep in the engine bay is it located? The radiator, fans, etc are out right now.
And is there only one? There was mention of one of the banks was running lean. is there one for each bank?
Greatly appreciate your insight.
wj
wj
Redoubled my search and found the instructions in the manual. Looks like the valve is over by the water pump under the air intake. Manual says you don't have to take the hood and radiator support out, but we'll have to see. Major warning not to damage the pipe to the exhaust 800 Euros if you can find one. Ouch.
Yes, the noise is the pump, definitely. But reading somewhere it said new pump won't last long if valve is bad. Shop said they heard a vacuum/air leak. I'm wonder if it might be the valve. When I pick up the car, they'll tell me where they hear the leak.
It's hard to find a replacement. Would you know if part number is cross referenced with another, possibly Ford, part? Would be nice to save a few bucks.
It's hard to find a replacement. Would you know if part number is cross referenced with another, possibly Ford, part? Would be nice to save a few bucks.
I have my car back and had a good conversation with my mechanic.
I'm not getting any check engine codes and so far the only problem is the noise on start up and that's for only 30 seconds.
Question: Is there any harm in just driving the car? Pump is definitely bad and will need to be replaced (alone with valve). My only immediate concern is passing NCT inspection in a few weeks. As long as there are no codes showing, I should pass.
I've kinda blown my budget this year on a new radiator and a few others new bits. Saving a few bucks has its appeal right now.
Cheers
I'm not getting any check engine codes and so far the only problem is the noise on start up and that's for only 30 seconds.
Question: Is there any harm in just driving the car? Pump is definitely bad and will need to be replaced (alone with valve). My only immediate concern is passing NCT inspection in a few weeks. As long as there are no codes showing, I should pass.
I've kinda blown my budget this year on a new radiator and a few others new bits. Saving a few bucks has its appeal right now.
Cheers
Why not spend a little time, remove headlight 15min, remove front shroud on air pump, 30 seconds. spray a bit of wd40 onto the motor shaft. Reverse steps and see if that helped? Less than an hour's time. Might save you for a few years.
To answer the question, not a problem as long as it continues to spin, noisy or quiet.
WJ
To answer the question, not a problem as long as it continues to spin, noisy or quiet.
WJ







