I'm getting so frustrated with my car that I may have to find new home for it. It's frustrating because of, IMO, what the dealer is doing...or not doing. The problem started last year: When I'd start up the car in the morning, the display screen wasn't operative--no navigation, radio, heater/AC controls or vent output selection. Later in the day the screen would start working.

I took it in to the dealer who said it need a new computer module. This was ordered and installed. It worked for about a week. Dealer then said it needed another module. It lasted about as long as the first one. Now I've spent about $2,000 at the dealer with no repair. Dealer said it'd need to replace a third module, and that it'd order it.

No word from the dealer for a month. "Part hasn't come in" was the dealer's response. After several months of playing this game the dealer wouldn't return my calls.

I called Jaguar Cars North America. After a week it returned my call and said it'd investigate. A week later they called and sided with the dealer; "the dealer is more than willing to repair your car," etc., etc. I called the dealer. It didn't return my call. Nor my second call.

Now what? It seems to me that the dealer can't fix the car and that it's simply been throwing parts at it at my expense. Apparently it isn't even willing to do that any more. The car now sits in my garage, won't start, and the battery discharges overnight. If I charge the battery, the engine will crank (but not start up), and the starter won't disengage until I remove a battery cable.

Thank you.

 

For 'starters' a good battery should not discharge over night unless it's too old OR something is draining it. Have you put a charger on it? do you have a battery checker? they are cheap at Harbor Freight ,all Jag owners need one! And a code reader!!
Once battery is ok measure the battery drain (amps) with ignition off. If you don't know how to do this, find an Independant Jag Repair shop. Your dealer is no good; he's changing too many things.................ask for codes.
Sorry can't help much more, Happy New Year


Adrian

 

What was the initial quote for the repair? Was it the $2000?

You're getting hosed by that particular dealership. If it were me I'd put an immediate "stop payment/dispute" on my charge card payment to them. I'd write the dealership (owner/pres+GM and head of service dept too) a letter, copying Jag NA, demanding the original part they said was defective to be returned to you (California this is state law), letting them know you're disputing payment based upon the fact that you have not received satisfactory service and that your subsequent efforts to have this matter resolved have been met with repeated failed attempts and now their ignoring your multiple calls. You paid for a repair and they have not met their responsibility. Until such time that they either meet their obligation OR refund all monies paid you will not pay and will take this to court, the press, Jag NA, etc if need be. Personally I'd also at this point find another delaership, preferably a Jag dealer, and have them tend to this. Give the dealership's owner a time frame in which you expect them to call you with their resolution to this and what it will take to have them satisfy you.

It may well be simply a bad battery (new or old battery can still be bad and cause these symptoms) but it is still their responsibility to figure it out. If they've diagnosed the isue incorrectly that's their mistake to eat not yours. Do your best at this point to communicate via email or letter rather that phone calls so if this should go to court you have paper trails. In the end you'll get it fixed stay firm but reasonable and NOT emotional. In California they would have one chance to resolve their initial repair after that you can go elsewhere to have the problem resolved, it may be the same in your state

If you get that disgusted by this run-around let me know what you want for the car I may be in the market...

Good luck!

 

+1 on the dealer being useless. Not returning calls and not diagnosing correctly is a poor combo. I'd pull the car from the dealership and try another. Call the other dealership first and tell them what is happening. If you get your car repaired, I would file a claim with the Better Business Bureau against the first dealer who is giving you the run around. Good luck and enjoy the Holidays.


PS. Most of our problems originate with a weak or faulty battery. That's always the best place to start.

 

Why should you pay for 2nd or 3rd of the same part? Their part they sold you is faulty, it's up to them to stand behind it. Sounds like you need a new battery is where I would start. XK is known to be battery finicky. Is there anyone else that can work on your car? You're out of warranty, so why stick with the dealer and dealer shop rates???

 

To answer some questions, the original module was going to cost about $900. When that didn't solve the problem, a second (different) module was installed, which push the total bill to over $1900. A third module (supposedly a differnt module than the first two) was to be ordered by the dealer. That's when communication with the dealer broke down.

I doubt that the battery is the problem since it was less than a year old when my problems started. There is definitely a battery drain since when I connect th negative cable to the battery there is a spark. What happens to cause the battery drain in such a short amount of time (overnight) is that the head lights turn on by themselves. There may be other causes, of course.

I'm preparing a letter to the dealer as we speak with a copy to Jaguar N.A. giving them two weeks to contact me and to at least start remedying the problem, failing in which I want a full refund. Thank you for all your help.

 

Battery could still be bad. It is best for these cars to have an AGM battery which is good for cars with high electrical demands, in part because they recharge much faster than a standard lead acid and because they self discharge at a much slower rate.

Even my AGM battery seemed to be causing electrical gremlins after just a week or two until I started using a smart charger / battery tender.

It sucks, I know, but this is part of the experience of owning a modern Jaguar. At least they are gorgeous and fast!

 

I agree that the battery could still be at fault even if it is one year old. One bad drain could kill the battery. First things first. Be absolutely sure you have a good battery with a load test and replace it if necessary so that you are starting out fresh. Also, you will need to keep the battery at full charge with a CTEK or other battery maintainer so that you are always working with a fully charged battery. If you have issues after, you know your battery has been eliminated from the equation.Good luck.

 

I have a similar problem with my 07 XK. First thing in the morning, the screen is not operative for just over a minute (just showing the Jaguar writing). It does eventually come on each time, but it seems slow to load.






I hope the dealer (or another dealer) sorts this out for you, please post any resolve you end up having. Good luck.

 

After 16 jags I can agree with what has already been stated above. It's most likely your battery. I don't care how new it is. I have put in new battery's that were not fully charged and experienced the same electrical gremlins as I did with the old battery. Put a smart charger on it and a couple days later life is good. In my humble opinion/experience 80% of Jaguar electrical gremlins are battery, battery, battery. I spect half of Jaguars bad reputation are simply bad battery's or battery's that were not fully charged. If you do not drive your jag daily it MUST be plugged into a tender or you will continue to have spotty issues.

 

Yes, I agree!! Bad battery is cause of many problems and dealers never seem to find or even look at the battery!

 

And that is because they will read the codes and charge you a fortune for parts that don't need changing.

Always maintain and check your battery regularly and you will keep your costs down.

 

Correct about batteries... don't think a new battery is a fully charged battery. New batteries still need to be brought up to full capacity. Battery maintainers are an absolute must have, should also be used even if you drive your car often to ensure the battery is brought up to a full charge. Driving your car for only a few minutes discharges it more than charges.

 

I think that checking the battery is always a good idea. However, what I am reading is that when he disconnects the battery, there is a spark, indicating a current draw.

The headlights turn-on by themselves? Are you in a dark garage with the headlights in AUTO mode? Still, with the car locked the lights should not come on.

A battery drain issue is not that difficult to diagnose. You need to connect an ammeter in series with the disconnected negative lead to see how much current is drawn when everything is shut off. That means ignition is off, doors/ trunk locked. This could be done with a long pair of wires connected in series with the N-post and brought out under the trunk seal. The car should shut off in increments and in 15 minutes (or so) the draw should not be more than about 0.04 amps or 40 milliamps. If there is more than the procedure would be to start pulling individual fuses until the draw disappears in order to identify the guilty accessory. Any competent auto-electric shop should be able to troubleshoot it in a fairly short time frame.

Good luck with finding the issue and DUMP your dealer and go for a refund of monies spent. You did not receive the service that you paid for.

 

I thought we had concluded you did not get an AGM battery? You got an MTP-49/H8. not a MTP-49/H8A?

I think you would be the first to say they needed a charger on an AGM battery...

Vince