Apologies for all the threads lately.

Head is spinning with all the things I want to do.
And let's face it, I've been reading these forums (back to 2008) for over a year as well as YT vids and such.
So lots of things I want/need to do.

Many of the edges of the Satin American Walnut trim are faded.
They also seem to have shrunken as the gaps around the shifter in the center console are wider than I'd think they should be.

Nothing I can do about the shrinkage. But I want to refinish them.
Searched 6 ways from Sunday on these forums and others as it was an option on several models (like S-Type).
Nada. Nuthin.
Mostly chatter about wrapping, full replacement kits that are too small so you have to use a black marker in the gaps, etc.
There was a bit of talk years ago about refinishing some of the high gloss options, but that's a whole different animal.

I've used an AI to, after being given all the specs I could find, lay out the best way to go about it.
I'll post the steps in a reply as to not gummy up this original post.

Has anyone done or attempted this?

 

Step by Step, including some specific brands, per my newly built x150 AI:

1. Remove the Trim

Use plastic pry tools only (metal can chip veneer).

Disconnect switches/vents before removing pieces.

Place pieces flat on a clean, padded surface to avoid flexing.

2. Prepare the Surface (Light Sanding)

The veneer is real wood but very thin, so sanding must be gentle. Goal = remove old clearcoat, not wood.

Safe sanding sequence:

Start with 800 grit wet/dry paper, used wet with water + a drop of dish soap (reduces scratching).

Sand by hand, using a foam sanding block or folded paper to keep pressure even.

Light, straight strokes — avoid circular motion to prevent swirl marks.

Stop as soon as the cloudy old lacquer looks even (don’t chase every last defect).

Move to 1000 grit wet/dry (still wet).

Smooths out any faint marks from the 800 grit.

Light pressure only.

Finish with 1200 grit wet/dry (wet).

This gives a smooth, satin-ready surface for the new clearcoat.

👉 Tip: If you ever start to see wood grain showing through (color or pattern changing), stop immediately — that means you’re through the lacquer.

After sanding, wipe with isopropyl alcohol to remove dust/oils.

3. Light Stain (Only if Faded)

Use a light walnut stain (e.g., Minwax “Special Walnut 224”) only if edges are sun-bleached.

Apply sparingly with a lint-free cloth, then wipe immediately.

Test on the back side of a trim piece before doing the visible areas.

4. Apply the New Satin Clearcoat

Use a satin 2K automotive clear with UV inhibitors (e.g., SprayMax 2K Satin Clear, PPG, Glasurit).

Application steps:

Spray a light, even coat.

Allow it to flash: wait until the coat looks evenly dull (not glossy/wet) and feels dry to the touch — usually 10–15 minutes.

Flashing = solvents evaporating so the coat sets up.

Apply the next thin coat.

Repeat for 3–4 coats, letting each one flash before the next.

(Thin coats are safer than heavy coats — heavy coats can sag or trap solvents.)

5. Curing

Let pieces cure at least 48 hours in a dust-free, ventilated area.

After curing, if surface feels slightly rough, lightly buff with a microfiber — no polish or wax (it adds unwanted gloss).

6. Reinstall and Protect

Refit trim carefully, making sure all clips and switches are seated.

For long-term life:

Use a sunshade when parked.

Apply a matte UV interior protectant (like Gtechniq C6) every few months.

 

Ebay has veneers - you might find a match.

Veneeral disease

 

LMAO. Nice Link Text.

Already did that. Spent about 2.5 days digging. 45 mins of that was scrolling all the veneerial disease listings. Zero Satin American Walnut, sadly.
And anything I'm gonna find will be used so most likely have the same issue.

Ran into a similar thing with the chrome around the shifter. Mine's a tad banged up here and there, nothing terrible, just use.
Looked at every single one on ebay. $110 and up and they were all way way worse.
I think it's actual chrome, not cheap chrome coating, so I can take it off and polish it well on the bench.

 

Really, I'd be surprised that it was chromed metal.
If plastic maybe sand+fill then hydrodip in chrome?
Maybe wrap in chrome?
If metal. Strip polish and rechrome.
Let us (me) know if it is metal.
wj

 

Intriguing and at the same time frustrating. $106,000 car (in 2008 money) and they coated plastic.

Here is the summary which got me excited for about 5 seconds as mine is a Portfolio:

Based on discussions in Jaguar enthusiast forums, the chrome bezel (also referred to as the surround, trim ring, or J-gate chrome trim) around the gear selector plate and shifter in the 2007-2009 Jaguar XK and XKR models is not solid metal that has been chromed. Instead, it is consistently described as chrome-plated plastic, with the chrome layer applied via a process like physical vapor deposition (PVD) or a similar vacuum metallization technique.
This aligns with reports of the chrome finish peeling, flaking, or lifting off over time—a common issue attributed to wear, hand contact, or environmental factors, which is typical behavior for a thin metallic coating on a plastic substrate rather than solid metal.
The plastic base can sometimes feel sharp along edges where the coating wears, leading some owners to apply protective epoxy or seek replacements.

<But Then...>

One exception noted is for specific higher-trim variants like the 2008 XKR Portfolio edition (which shares the same platform as the 2007-2009 models), where the surround is described as polished aluminum instead of chromed plastic.
However, this appears limited to special editions and is not the standard material across base XK and XKR models. Aftermarket solutions discussed include aluminum or stainless steel overlays to replace or cover the original bezel, further implying the factory part is not solid metal in most cases.
No forum discussions explicitly confirm a "dipped" chrome process, but the PVD method mentioned is a form of chrome coating applied to plastic.

I'd guess someone around here has taken it off, man handled it and could tell us. Port or not.

 

The portfolio’s solid alloy, NOT plastic, I know, I had one….

Some plastics utilise PVD, others plastic coated in a thin base metal then electroplated.

 

Thats awesome, so I should be able to buff out the little scratches on the bench and polish her up.

Thank you sir!