Now that I no longer bring my 2010 XK 5.0 Coupe to the dealer for oil changes, I am using an independent, but will be bringing my own oil, filter, and drain plug (shop doesn't suction). Where do you guys purchase your oil filter (C2D3670/Jaguar or LR011279/Land Rover) and drain plug (LR073675)? I know most of our filters are now made in China which is even stated on the box. I see a number of sellers on ebay with very good ratings that claim their filters are OEM and gotten from dealerships. Most are between $15-$17 with free shipping and the box they come in look identical to the dealership. The dealerships charge $49 plus tax. Of course I'm comfortable getting from the dealerships, but does it actually make a difference? I'm only dealing with ebay sellers with many positive reviews. Where do you guys go for your filters? Thanks all.

 

Maybe you should buy a suction pump for your shop, it is SO much easier, cleaner, faster and better than taking off the entire under-tray to get to the drain.
And why would you need a replacement plug anyway? It is probably completely fine for reuse. If not, a new washer would be the only thing it'd need. Under a buck, and readily available nearly anywhere.

 

Thanks Cee Jay.
I was told by the previous indy that did my oil change, that the Jaguar Oil drain plug had the gasket as part of the plug (not a separate washer). I didn't see this for myself and thought he knew from experience. I'm using a different Indy now, and he is old school and won't be using a suction pump. Where would be the best place to buy the oil filter?

 

I'd find another Indy.

 

I've tried aftermarket filters and found not all fit as well as OEM although I've used a NAPA gold filter and found it to be a good fit though nearly as costly as genuine which I purchase from the nearest main dealer for $28. Sometimes Leaping Landrover on Amazon has them for $20+. I did the drain method once as a comparative experiment and used a genuine plug/washer. I found the drain method to not yield any greater quantity of fluid nor sediment than the suction method. The only difference really is the drain method's more labour intensive and time consuming including more difficult to transfer used oil from a collection pan vs extractor tank.

 

I buy WIX from O'Reilly's.
Your old school guy makes things very difficult upon himself for zero reasons. I'm undoubtedly older than him, and I'll never bottom drain my 2010 again, and I have a lift. Brain-crazy to not do it the easy way.
Bet it costs a good some more for a bottom drain also.

 

Here at the location in Florida where I live, it is next to impossible to find anyone who is motivated to do anything period. To find any repair shop that is dependable and competent is another feat. jIffy Lubes, and Tire Kingdoms everywhere, but no specialty shops that won't take you over the coals. We have more traffic than Manhattan, yet no real reliable repair shops.. period. My Jaguar mechanic has been at the same location for over 35 years, and only works on XKEs, XJS and XJs. My car is actually on the cusp of the cars he doesn't work on, but I know him for ages and he is the most reliable, honest guy out there. For bigger jobs, he is booked for months as he has only a few lifts and it's just him and his brother- n- law. It is what it is, and I'm happy to have anyone in my area that is willing to work on my Jag. Yes, no suction pump, but he'll work on my car and ONLY WORKS ON JAGS....NO RANGE ROVERS. He even prefers the customers getting their own parts. He wouldn't be in the same exact location for over 3 decades if he wasn't the real deal. Ok... no electrics on later Jags (I don't blame him) but everything else and once again... HONEST. His father fixed British cars, and he learned from him. I'm thrilled that he'll work on my car. This guy has more XKEs than a car show...most in show condtion... Another reason to go there as he'll most probably be careful with my car. PS... I found numerous seller's on Ebay selling filters, seemingly identical to the dealers which are over $45+... A Autonation Jag dealer quoted me $54 for a filter. I got the drain plug because the gasket (non-metal) as part of the plug and comes with the car when new. Total cost is still a fraction of the dealer and I can no longer do most work on my Jag myself anymore.

 

I get my oil filters from Rock Auto, huge range and usually the cheapest going even accounting for shipping to Oz.
The modern Jag filter (C2D3670) is exactly the same across the Jag (and LR) range so no need to restrict yourself to XK listings, XF, XJ, F-Type etc all bring up the exact same filter.
When shopping for one from Rock Auto I always go for the highest quality versions which usually means OEM, Wix, Mahle or Mann and often one or more of these will be on special/discounted. Of those I prefer Wix.
Yes the sump plug has a built-in rubber gasket so you can't just replace a copper washer, it's a new plug or nuffin, although I used to find that the gasket did not deteriorate so I re-used the same plug for three or four oil changes.
That said I haven't touched the sump plug for many years as I use the vacuum pump extraction method.

 

The plug is common to some US Fords as well:

• OE 1 013 938 — FORD / LAND ROVER
• OE 2 261 879 — FORD
• OE 02261879 — FORD
• OE 2 261 879 S1 — FORD
• OE 02261879 S1 — FORD
• OE 3 936 485 — FORD
• OE 1005593 — LAND ROVER
• OE LR 073675 — LAND ROVER
• OE 4594914 — LAND ROVER
• OE LR 000437 — LAND ROVER
• OE LR038744 — LAND ROVER
• OE 0311.32 — PEUGEOT / CITROËN
• OE 311.32 — PEUGEOT / CITROËN
• OE AJ 83017 — JAGUAR
• OE AJ 813202 — JAGUAR
• OE AJ 88461 — JAGUAR
• OE JDE3091 — JAGUAR
• OE JWV114003 — JAGUAR
• OE 97JM-6730-BA — FORD USA / FORD MOTOR COMPANY
• OE 30711617 — VOLVO
• OE 8694765 — VOLVO
• OE 30735753 — VOLVO
• OE 9659107280 — FIAT
• OE 97JM-6730-CA — FORD / FORD MOTOR COMPANY
• OE 1E00-10-404 — MAZDA
• OE YF09-10-4J5 — MAZDA
• OE YF09-10-46Y — MAZDA
• OE LF13-10-404 — MAZDA
• OE C201-10-404 — MAZDA
• OE 46347536 — FIAT / JEEP / ALFA ROMEO / LANCIA
• OE MF6TZ-6730-BA — FORD USA
• OE 97JM-6730-CA S1 — FORD MOTOR COMPANY
• OE F75E-6730-BA — FORD MOTOR COMPANY
• OE F75E-6730-BA S1 — FORD MOTOR COMPANY

You could take any equivalent!

In Europe, I usually use oil filters from Mann, Knecht, Mahle, Hengst, Bosch. I doubt any are really any better than each other.

You could buy your mechanic a pump for when he does your car
Even something like this works fine: https://www.ebay.com/itm/306390597849

 

@jahummer You have an extensively modified race-prepped 2008 XKR. I thought that the suction method began with the 2010 model year 5.0L engines that have a separate metal suction tube (about 1/4 inch) inside the oil fill tube that goes to the bottom of the oil pan.

How does the suction method work with your 4.2L engine, which doesn't have that separate 1/4 inch suction tube? Are you able to push a plastic tube all the way down the oil fill tube to the oil pan?

Stuart

 

@bocatrip I use WIX myself, and I cannot say it makes a difference or not other than I changed my oil pan gasket over the winter. Virtually no sludge in the pan and zero metal shavings.

 

Apologies for any confusion, this XKR is now the oldest in the collection. I've since had/have multiple new Range Rovers and Land Rovers, just don't list them here nor is there any room in the signature to add them.

 

. Ordered one from the most popular and best feedback seller on EBay. From China like most. $19. Box looks identical to my last Jaguar OEM filter box…. Counterfeit box most likely……

 

I wouldn’t be using a China clone filter. Order an Oem one from one of the online jag dealers.

Old school or not, changing the oil and filter with my ‘15 XKR, via the suction method, was one of the easiest things I’ve ever done to a car.

 

The last filter I got from a Jaguar Dealer (LR011279) had Made in China right on the label.

 

Where it’s made’s completely irrelevant to anything about this. I get some Americans have an aversion to products made in China but genuine parts regardless of manufacture location must meet stringent design standards, fake, counterfeit, knock-off or whatever do not always have to meet any standards (or regulations).

 

"Russian components; American components, all made in Taiwan".

 

I get mine from RockAuto, and I’ve heard that Bosch makes a better quality filter than most, so I get those. JMHO

This topic has been beat to death on this and also the other forum I subscribe to. The fact is, any name-brand oil filters will do an adequate job, as will any name-brand synthetic oil. What REALLY matters is changing your oil on a regular basis. That’s the key.

​​​​​BTW, @bocatrip , who is the indy that you use? I’m in Boca and I might need a guy like that some day.

 

yes, but assembled where?