Window in the Convertible top
#261
#262
It's time to add myself to the list of rear window separations. I'm giving Amazing Goop glue instead of Rhino Glue a try having seen it used for several youtuber's with different convertibles with the same problem. I've gotten 60% around the window with the suck-n-clamps and wood stick battens giving each application 24 hours to cure before moving to the next section. It's slow but it appears to be working well. We'll see how it holds with the South Carolina 100 degree July heat.
#263
#264
Marine 5200 is Outstanding adhesive and would assuredly do a fine job. Personally, I think rhino glue gets too brittle to last the long run in a setting with lots of vibration, but it would appear that people have lots of success with it.
However, the absolutely STICKIEST adhesive I've ever used is Loctite PL500 Landscape. One must use old clothes and latex gloves when anywhere near the stuff. I've ruined lots of jeans and shirts while using it, and once a tiny dab gets on skin, fuggedaboudit. You're screwed.
^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ That's what I'd use in my window, should it ever detach.
However, the absolutely STICKIEST adhesive I've ever used is Loctite PL500 Landscape. One must use old clothes and latex gloves when anywhere near the stuff. I've ruined lots of jeans and shirts while using it, and once a tiny dab gets on skin, fuggedaboudit. You're screwed.
^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ That's what I'd use in my window, should it ever detach.
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d a (08-21-2019)
#266
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d a (08-21-2019)
#267
The only ting I have had luck with was 3M window-weld. All others would either be too brittle as mentioned or give over time. I tried 3M marine 5200 but it did not last. Key is getting a good clean surface and using specialty clamps (suck-n-clamps). I used the window weld to caulk the also. Pretty good match for black top.
#268
#269
Found this enlightening video!
The ultimate glue shootout...
also - data sheets on these two: The 5200 wins on tensile strength and hardness and is also suitable for glass.
http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/1...hane-08609.pdf
https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/...-tech-data.pdf
Phil
The ultimate glue shootout...
also - data sheets on these two: The 5200 wins on tensile strength and hardness and is also suitable for glass.
http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/1...hane-08609.pdf
https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/...-tech-data.pdf
Phil
Last edited by philbone; 08-19-2019 at 08:27 PM.
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d a (08-21-2019)
#270
It's been over a year since my last Rhino Glue touch-up repair (my Post #164, above, 7/28/18) and my rear glass is still OK after putting the top down and up countless times. And I'm in Hotlanta.
Rhino Glue is easy to use, it's clear and dries quickly, and it works. Why use anything else? Just follow the detailed instructions above.
Rhino Glue is easy to use, it's clear and dries quickly, and it works. Why use anything else? Just follow the detailed instructions above.
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d a (08-21-2019)
#271
It's been over a year since my last Rhino Glue touch-up repair (my Post #164, above, 7/28/18) and my rear glass is still OK after putting the top down and up countless times. And I'm in Hotlanta.
Rhino Glue is easy to use, it's clear and dries quickly, and it works. Why use anything else? Just follow the detailed instructions above.
Rhino Glue is easy to use, it's clear and dries quickly, and it works. Why use anything else? Just follow the detailed instructions above.
Mine is holding just fine as well.
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d a (08-21-2019)
#273
SCjags, make sure you mask off cloth top material. The window-weld is pretty easy to get off the window with a razor, but if it gets into the weave of the actual top it will be trouble. I do have a bit of seperation in the inside and the headliner color is a parchment color, so I may need somethig that is not black in color. It might be completely hidden there however.
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d a (08-21-2019)
#274
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d a (08-21-2019)
#275
#276
The latest update starts with Post #262, above. It's an easy DIY repair if you take your time, use masking tape to keep the adhesive off unwanted surfaces, wear rubber gloves, and use Suck 'n Clamps with the right adhesive. I recommend Rhino Glue because it dries fast and clear, but the choice is yours. There are lots of photos and tips in this thread, so read it from the beginning.
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d a (08-21-2019)
#277
I had my xkr in storage for the summer while I was traveling and though it had a cover it was in the heat in FL for 10 weeks. Sure enough when I got back the window had separated and dropped out. I called a local auto upholstery shop that my jag mechanic recommended and he said he could fix it for ~$200. I'm supposed to go pick it up today. Here's hoping it looks great!
#278
#279
Update on 5200 glue.
I glued the top side of the window with 5200 and left it for about 5 days.
To my horror I found that the "glue line" of the joint was not 100% perfect (I am a perfectionist) being unable to see it through my rigged clamping system, so I decided to redo it!
In the meantime my Suck-n-Clamps had arrived (I had bought them for any future needs)
Ok - I thought I should be able to just pry it gently apart but it took me about 90 minutes just to separate the 25cm joint! This stuff is insane.
It is highly flexible and very resistant to cutting with a knife or razor.
I had to use a razor and a 7-in-one scraper tool to gently separate the joint. It stretches and refuses to come off. When it finally separates it takes forever to try to remove it from the glass, let alone the fabric. A lot of persuasion and delicate work but eventually it separated.
Another hour to remove as much residual 5200 as possible.
Honestly - I cannot see this stuff deteriorating in anything less that several years. It is unbelievably durable.
I scrubbed with acetone until spotless, masked off a glue line, applied with a spatula to the fabric, let tack for an hour, applied to the glass and then using carpet tape to pull the fabric into position clamped down with paint stirrers and Suck-n-clamps.
Plenty of time for final adjustments, removed carpet tape and masking tape for a neat glue line.
It looks really good and I will leave it for a few days to fully cure.
I cannot stress enough that prior to any original repair that all the ORIGINAL glue be removed from the glass with a razor. Otherwise the 5200 joint will fail but only by ripping off the original glue from the glass!
Phil
I glued the top side of the window with 5200 and left it for about 5 days.
To my horror I found that the "glue line" of the joint was not 100% perfect (I am a perfectionist) being unable to see it through my rigged clamping system, so I decided to redo it!
In the meantime my Suck-n-Clamps had arrived (I had bought them for any future needs)
Ok - I thought I should be able to just pry it gently apart but it took me about 90 minutes just to separate the 25cm joint! This stuff is insane.
It is highly flexible and very resistant to cutting with a knife or razor.
I had to use a razor and a 7-in-one scraper tool to gently separate the joint. It stretches and refuses to come off. When it finally separates it takes forever to try to remove it from the glass, let alone the fabric. A lot of persuasion and delicate work but eventually it separated.
Another hour to remove as much residual 5200 as possible.
Honestly - I cannot see this stuff deteriorating in anything less that several years. It is unbelievably durable.
I scrubbed with acetone until spotless, masked off a glue line, applied with a spatula to the fabric, let tack for an hour, applied to the glass and then using carpet tape to pull the fabric into position clamped down with paint stirrers and Suck-n-clamps.
Plenty of time for final adjustments, removed carpet tape and masking tape for a neat glue line.
It looks really good and I will leave it for a few days to fully cure.
I cannot stress enough that prior to any original repair that all the ORIGINAL glue be removed from the glass with a razor. Otherwise the 5200 joint will fail but only by ripping off the original glue from the glass!
Phil
Last edited by philbone; 08-23-2019 at 11:41 PM.