Phil,
This is what I bought on Amazon:




I used the Ultra in the big bottle to repair my top.

Stuart

 

The local shop price was $210 out the door. Looks good as new. They did have to drive it over to my local jag expert to get the top to reset so it took a few extra days for that. Time will tell but i'm super happy so far and glad to have not tried DYI. I don't have a garage for a few months anyway so I'm just relieved at this point.

 

It’s now three days short of one year since I repaired my top using the Rhino glue method. I noticed last week that the window had separated again, but the good news (

 

It’s now three days short of one year since I repaired my top using the Rhino glue method. I noticed last week that the window had separated again, but the good news (if you can call it that) is that it’s now the bottom that separated where last year it was the top of the window. It was much faster and cleaner the second time around since I already had the tools and materials.... about 2 hours total. The initial repair of the top of the window is still holding strong. Pics from last year and this year. Using masking tape on the glass and top the second time around made for a much cleaner install.


Top of window repaired Oct. 1, 2018


Bottom of window repaired Sept 28, 2019

 

Nicely done!

 

Ugh!.....
I just discovered two weeks ago, mine is staring to separate at the bottom too. I've ordered the Rhino glue and the suction clamps in preparation for the job. Any tips? How to prep the glass, relax the top etc.
This operation is a good candidate for a stickie?

 

Everything you need to know is in this thread. There are varying opinions, advice, methods and products, so start at the beginning, make notes of the post numbers you like, review them and decide what's the best way for you.

Since you already ordered the Rhino Glue and the Suck-N-Clamps, just follow the advice of those of us who have already done it that way. Just take your time, mask off everywhere you don't want any glue to drip on, clean the surfaces, apply the glue, and use paint stirrers or similar sticks to evenly distribute the pressure from the clamps.

 

Thanks Stuart!.

 

Hi guys, I'd appreciate your advice & Comments.

I recently took possession of an '07 XK Convertible (from Florida), which has developed the dreaded delamination of it's rear glass from the Canvass.
Luckily, many have generously shared their repair experiences in this thread, complete with detailed pictures. I have profited much by your posts. I've gleaned very specific do's & don'ts from studying the prep and techniques utilized. Thanks to all for your contributions. What a valuable Resource this Forum has proven to be. I now feel sufficiently schooled to attempt my own repair.
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I've decided to go with Stuart's "Rhino Glue" Procedure, including keeping the top fully closed. IMO, the inherent benefits of this approach, outweighed any downside. We'll see if I'm right.
I will attempt repair soon after I hear feedback from you guys.
During close examination of the detachment site (entire lower edge, and part of passenger side vertical), I noted that the Canvass edge is rolled under, forming a nice double-ply edge for strength & stability. Such design was expected.
I was also interested in seeing how they designed the Canvass glass frame's curvature at the lower corners. Examination revealed that adjacent to the curve, there is an approx. 1"patch that is single-ply; not double-edged. This, I believe, is necessary in order to facilitate the smooth flow of Canvass, and to prevent bunching up of excess material at the site. Also, a predictable design accomodation.

Here's the issue that I'd like more clarification on:
Corresponding to this single-ply patch, is a thick glob of a black substance left on the glass. (glue, I believe. My Canvass T is a light colored Taupe, so no indication it's a glued fabric remnant that was ripped from Top).
This dried adhesive remnant, is much different in size and texture than the thin film left on the rest of the seperated glass edge.
I was wondering if this glob is possible evidence of a different, more robust Glue being utilized to bolster a known stress point.
The glue is also raised sufficiently to fill in the gap created by the different thicknesses, due to ply variation.
Granted, this may simply be the natural ooze of glue under pressure, filling an existing void, creating a hi-point. But, I wonder...
Questions:
​​​​​1 - Any indication, via Jag Service Bulletins or anecdotal references, that a secondary, more extreme glue was used by Jaguar to address inherent weak points, during productions ?
(the use of a secondary, hi-strength glue at key sites, may explain the high failure rate, when using a "1 glue"approach)
2 - Have any of you experienced the same built up glue at the curvature, during prep ? If so, any special attention given during clean-up &/or re-glueing ?
3. - If not taking into accout the thickness variation of Canvass at the curve site, did you find any problem with the bond holding at this specific site,?
( NOTE: I suspect that the natural ooze migration of the glue under clamp pressure, will take care of ply variation, and not create a bonding issue.Thoughts ?)
4. - Lastly, I have no idea whether this glob of glue is a remnant of the Original Jag Bonding process, or an indication of a past repair attempt by an Owner. - Any thoughts ?
Thanks
Bill W.

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I strongly suspect that the thick black glob is the 3M adhesive that failed, which was used by a previous owner. If you read this thread from the beginning, you'll see where I used the 3M adhesive and it failed after a few weeks.

I know that my top was never repaired prior to when I did it myself. When the glass separated, the dried adhesive used by the factory was clear and as hard as a rock. It was difficult to remove so I just roughed it up as much as possible. 3M adhesive didn't hold, but Rhino Glue did the trick and has exceeded my expectations.

This is not a difficult DIY repair. Just take your time and follow the instructions in this thread.

 

Thanks for the quick reply, Stuart.
Since you've pioneered the procedure I'm adopting, I was hoping you'd chim in. I'm most appreciatI've that you have.
Yes, you and others have laid out an excellent plan to address the issue. I read the thread throughout, multiple times, and I feel comfortable with the approach... from A to Z
The thick glob I discovered wasn't mentioned in any previous post, so I wanted to address it. It seemed strategically placed, and different from the rest of the glue. ​​​​​I spelled out some of the possibilities for it being there, including (as you suggest), a remnant of an old repair.
Thanks again, Stuart, for you input.
Regards
Bill W

 

Hello Stuart, I enjoyed reading this thread and all of your invaluable input, it seems to have spread across the internet to many other makes of cars too! I ordered the Rhino Glue today, but hesitated on the clamps. The glue is supposed to harden in seconds, did you find that you really needed the clamps or were they just used because you had them on hand? I can see why they would be needed for use with 3M Window-Weld, but I don't follow with the Rhino Glue.

 

Rhino Glue dries fast, but you still need the Suck N Clamps to provide uniform pressure for 60 seconds along the length of the repair. I used one paint stirrer stick at a time between the clamps and the top, and tightened the clamps down just enough to be snug. Follow the instructions on the label.

From Amazon:

 

Hi there. Female owner 2011 xkr supercharged and love my car! In past 2 months I find my convertible top has seep rated from Fabric (I’m actually doing the DIY found here on the site) thanks everyone. In putting the glue recommended on the inside of the fabric, the glue bled thru into the inside of the top and turned from clear white to purple brown !! Now what?

now today while spending hours doing back window and top repair, I can’t believe but my dash on passenger side is delaminating. So I can see the staples used to put the dash in place. But the area so damn small I can’t have anyone fix it so I’m being told. Any ideas? I am so shocked to see these expensive repairs which are actually essential I’m in Tampa Fl

Thank you in advance. Please send the items as well I need to obtain to start another project. Happy new year and be safe everyone.

 

Hi,
So, you are saying the Rhino glue changed colors as it cured? I"m not sure anyone here having used the Rhino has reported a color change. How odd!

 

She didn't say which glue or method she used to do the repair. This thread discusses several different adhesives and methods. She said that she's doing the repair in this thread, but didn't go into any details. We need more information to help her, with photos.

I agree with you, Ken, because I experienced no bleed-through or color change with Rhino Glue. My repair is still holding up fine, but I haven't driven much due to CV and my XKR is now a Garage Queen.

 

.

 

 

Puzzled by her last reply that made no sense, I searched her posts through her Personal Profile. Here's what I found.

Savitt1 previously asked this same question in another thread on 11-26-2020 together with detailed photos of her damaged top.

Cee Jay sent her a short reply the same day with a link to this thread. I replied to her on 11-27-2020, quoting Cee Jay's reply. I elaborated on Cee Jay's post and recommended using Rhino Glue and Suck N Clamps. She thanked me on 1-3-2021. See the last posts in this thread:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...f-issue-61084/

Did a troll hijack her posts here and is playing with us?

 

relax. No I am text typing No games. I really need input and if the forum thru your eyes infers I’m shady then I’m sorry. Not intended. Here’s pics of my issue

Roof

Dash