Hi Folks,

Looking for a little help here...

After removing my rear quarter window regulator (passenger) for repair I have now got an airbag light! It flashes one time only at startup - a single flash but then remains illuminated.

Only thing that I can think of is that of the passenger seatbelt electrical connectors were disconnected and then reconnected, and that I also unfortunately ran the battery down during my work and had to recharge the battery (using a trickle charger overnight)

Nothing shows up on the ODB2 (not unexpectedly so) Can anyone help me solve and reset my airbag light issue?

I would rather not be advised to go to a dealer to have them do this - Can anybody help me with this?

Thanks in advance!

Phil

 

I have an intermittent problem with this light after my son dropped his phone down the passenger seat side. He basically rummaged around under the passenger seat like a pig rooting for truffles and must have messed with the wiring. I've re-wiggled everything and set the seat in place with the light off, but henceforth passengers are prohibited from moving that seat ... just in case they spark it up again.

If my scenario can be applied to yours, it's a wiring thing generated from the quarter panel repair. The battery drain makes it sound like you have a ground problem, too. My $0.02 worth.

 

Thanks Kurt,

I will investigate the under seat wiring today and look for anything that looks like it needs to be reseated.
Regarding the battery, I was the one who drained it by repeated opening/closing of doors (with light delay) and soft top roof during the removal of my regulator!

Thanks

Phil

 

If you haven't already, you could try doing a system reset, by disconnecting the battery, touch the battery connectors together (to drain any residual charge), and then reconnect the battery. The procedure has been known to fix some oddball problems.

 

I had a similar problem a while back. it was a loose connection under the driver seat.

 

There doesn't appear to be anything loose under the seat, and I didn't disturb anything there during the regulator removal.
Do you think it could have anything to do with the wiring connection that is attached to the Seat Belt retractor? It is the only thing related that I unplugged and then plugged back in again.

Phil

 

Just speculating, You might re-check any multi-pin plugs disconnected and spray with an electrical contact cleaner (gently), while doing so.
Happy Trails.....

 

Thanks Ken,

I will check again this week when I replace the new regulator.
In the meantime I disconnected the battery and drained the circuits by touching the cables together - the airbag light is still on. I had a bit of an issue trying the calibrate the EPB parking brake after I reconnected the battery! I was getting error messages "The Parking Brake Cannot be Applied" and "Parking Brake Error" Seems that you immediately have to start the car, apply the footbrake at then apply the EPB. Then release the EPB and then the footbrake. That should calibrate it. Apply the EPB five times to check for any errors. If you don't do this you will have to disconnect the battery for 30 seconds and then start all over again.

Also once the battery has been disconnected the car will run and idle VERY rough. Apparently the ECM "forgets" all its calibrations so you need to let the engine idle up to temp, then drive at 30 mph for 3 mins, up to 40 mph for 3 mins, then 50 and then 70 both for 3 mins each. The car then runs perfectly. Have to re-set the clock and memory seats.

Hope this helps someone.

Phil

PS Now if someone could direct me to the Airbag light culprit!!

 

A little more info please Phil.

First, does the horn work? Usually if the clock spring is faulty, you get both the SRS light and the horn won't work.

I assume you've checked your fuses.

Is the passenger occupancy light on? If there's no one in the seat and the light is on, this is usually indicative of the belt sensor tensioner which is located at the back of the outside rail in which the seat slides on. A one wire plug.

Other than that I think you need a scan tool to isolate which airbag is at fault.

Also, I know you indicate only a single flash but SRS warning lights are two digit. Common code as noted on eBay:


Airbag Code Description

12 Low battery voltage

13 Airbag circuit grounded out or shorted

14 Short or ground on primary crash circuit

21 Improper mounting of airbag

22 Safing sensor output shorted to battery voltage

23 Safing sensor return circuit or input feed open

24 Output feed open

32 to 35 All pertain to problems with driver and passenger side airbags

41-45 All pertain to problems with right and left primary crash sensors



 

Hi Sean,

Thank you for the informative and helpful reply!
So, yes, the horn works as do all the steering wheel controls so I do not suspect the clock spring.

I thought I had checked all the fuses but it wouldn't hurt to look them over again - any in particular?

The passenger occupancy light (the seatbelt light) only comes on when I have a passenger in the seat.

I have a ODB2 scanner - no error codes are seen.

And yes, to confirm, the light comes on for 6 seconds, goes out and immediately comes back on and then stays on - with no sequential flash codes.

Like I mentioned this all happened after I removed a rear window regulator, (disconnected/reconnected the passenger seatbelt retractor connector, and the connector at the seat belt anchor) and ran the battery down. If that gives any clues.

Unfortunately I don't have a bigger hammer - LOL!

Thanks again for your help!

Phil

 

Hey Phil. Not all SRS codes are read by the generic OBD II code readers so if yours is generic, it should find SRS codes that start with B0 or B3 but not B1 or B2. You need Jag specific reader/scanner for those Body codes.

Voltage supply codes are B1 type codes btw.

All that said, you should still get flash codes without the help or need of a reader, but as you stated, you aren't.

So light on with no flashes:
Battery voltage high
Battery voltage low
Short to battery
Open circuit (disconnected harness)
Feed to restraint control module open (blown fuse?) fuse 17 and fuse 21 in the auxiliary control box on my 2007

Further guesses on my part wouldn't be much help. If you disconnected the tensioner as you note below - that alone would trigger the SRS warning. Coupled with a battery drain, these are the likely culprits.

I've read that the Jag SRS system doesn't reset itself and I've read that it does. You may have resolved it by reconnecting your retractor connector and recharging your battery but "may" still need to have the correct scanner type to clear the SRS warning.

Sorry, not much help but also important to note, if the SRS light is on, you don't have airbags. I know many people know this but many don't so throwing it out there.

 

Here's another link to SRS DTC flash codes that appear more Jag specific (a few contradictions from my earlier post I think

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...g-codes-39056/

 

So replaced the regulator today. Great rebuild and improvement on the original design by Window Motor World of Florida! ...I will post an article.

Went through all the connectors with DeOxit and examined as much as I could find. All of it looks very clean and not at all suspect. Still the Airbag light remains on like a sentinel to my frustration

My guess Sean, is that the low battery triggered the light and that it needs to be re-set. I have not got the ability to do this so I may just have to find a kindly indy who wouldn't mind turning me a favor in return for promise of some future work.

At this point I am all out of ideas. How much would a complete scanner cost for the codes that you described for this car, by the way? Do you think it is something I should invest in?

Thanks again for all your help Sean,

Phil

 

...but not by me!

After trying everything reasonably possible without Jaguar dedicated diagnostic devices, I finally took it to my local indy Jag repair facility. I decided to try Just Jaguar in Sherman Oaks CA for a first time.

There are a lot of Jags here of many sorts, conditions and years. The people there are very nice although I did not notice very many recent cars - (prob due to the fact that they are just starting to come out of warranty) but staff were very helpful. I had a detailed conversation with fellow Brit mechanic Nick who connected two separate diagnostic computers to the car. It took a long time to read all the codes - maybe 10 mins and we could see that all the errors in the system had been triggered by low voltage.

Evidently any time the voltage available drops below 9.5 volts all the systems are going to start to spit out error codes. These can only be reset and rechecked with the correct software / hardware tools.

They charged me $60 which they estimated ahead of time and I was happy with that, especially with the new found friendly helpful resource staff.

So take away from this...

ANY TIME YOU ARE WORKING ON THE CAR WITH DOORS OPEN ETC ALWAYS LEAVE A LOW AMPERAGE BATTERY CHARGER CONNECTED (MAX 2 AMP)!

 

^^^^^^^ Yeah, most of us know that already. ^^^^^^^^^^^

 

Well, this is for the assistance of those who don't; like me - 30+ years of accomplished mechanical experience but new to the idiosyncrasies of the a modern Jaguar electrical system.

 

And I'm sure your troubles will undoubtedly help others with their problems, so thank you for your posts! An ABS light usually isn't the first sign of a low battery, so people will now be more likely to understand all this.
Not kidding either.

 

Phil like a lot of us here we learn and share the in's and out's of these cars. After getting mine a few years ago I was sitting in my car (with the door open) getting familiar with all of the new bells and whistles . Up came some not on the screen saying battery voltage danger or something like that.Then I started to investigate the battery "thing". I don't know about others but my 1st question when ever there is a problem is what is the battery condition/voltage. A handy thing to have is the cigarette lighter volt gauge. So now you know as we have all learned that the battery is the 1st thing to check. Good luck and enjoy.

 

Charger is certainly an option. Maintainer is a better one imo. Disconnecting the battery before disassembly is my preference.

Glad you got it worked out Phil. Since the voltage drop triggered several codes, as we suspected, your Jag required a reset. I still wonder if a reset would have been needed if the battery hadn't drained and the SRS was the only code triggered by disconnecting the harness.

No matter in the long run. It's resolved. Thanks for closing the thread out.