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Hey guys, I am new to this Forum. I just picked up a car that was heading for the scrapper due to the owner locking up the motor and getting tired of it.
I now have a 2014 Jaguar XKR Supercharged in my possession. This is my first Jaguar, but I could not let this one go to the scrapper.
Looking forward to starting the diagnosis, but fully expect a engine pull and rebuild.
There's some guys over on the XF forum that have rebuilt the engine, maybe a few on here, too. From memory, it seemed to me that some parts required for the rebuild were hard to find and/or non-existent and required unique sourcing methods. If it were me, I'd go pore over those threads and use what you find to make an informed decision, re: rebuild existing or replace with used. That's assuming you bought the car with the intention of getting it on the road as quickly as possible. If you bought it to be a weekend toy that'll spend a year or two on the lift before it sees the open road, and it won't be your only car... LS swap.
Thanks to you all. I will take a look at the threads today. I am really wondering how bad it is inside the motor. I may try to get a camera down the cylinders for a quick peak.
I have been looking online to see what I can find as swap out options, I would like to stay the same as what is in there.
Thanks to you all. I will take a look at the threads today. I am really wondering how bad it is inside the motor. I may try to get a camera down the cylinders for a quick peak.
I have been looking online to see what I can find as swap out options, I would like to stay the same as what is in there.
car-part.com will give you access to a nationwide database of junkyard inventories.
For the most part, all 5.0L SC'd long blocks are the mechanically the same across all JLR makes and models. Where the differences lay are mostly in the coolant piping material (some plastic, some metal), and they switched from a vacuum actuated bypass valve to a servo actuated valve. I can't remember what year the switch was made in, but I want to say '12 or '13. As a '14, you'll definitely have it, but since you'll most likely be replacing just the short or long block, that's not an issue. It'd behoove you to replace the water pump with an OEM part, and all coolant hoses and plastic pipes while you're there.
Guys, just off hand does anyone have a engine removal procedure? Looks straight forward at first glance but want to avoid any hidden gotchas. DO NOT need to break something expensive out of lack of sight.
An LS swap was possible with the previous X100 model - LS Swap, but I know of no one who has done an LS swap in an X150. That's because so many functions are integrated with the X150 touchscreen.
Of course, anything can be done with enough money. That's why it hasn't been done.
Guys, just off hand does anyone have a engine removal procedure? Looks straight forward at first glance but want to avoid any hidden gotchas. DO NOT need to break something expensive out of lack of sight.
QUOTE
Drop as a entire unit that is gearbox and engine and split on the bench / table .
I presume your doing this on a lift / hoist ?
* Also forgot to mention do your rear main seal whilst it's easily accessible along with the other items i pointed out in previous post
Last edited by steve_k_xk; May 6, 2022 at 03:54 PM.
Sorry, it's been a while for the update.
After getting in to the engine I am lucky that the motor was not seized as the previous owner thought.
Once I got in there I found that the driver side cylinder head intake camshaft had ground down metal to metal and locked up.
I sourced a used head and had both heads sent to the machine shop.
The motor is now back together and I am working through error codes as the motor just clicks when I try to start.
I removed and verified that the starter is good.
I am getting a U0401-86 Invalid data received from ecm/pcm
Has anyone seen this ?
I also see after several minutes that the screen says that the smartkey is not recognized
Any ideas will be helpful
thank in advance
Here's how to dock your Smartkey in the Emergency Start slot in the center glovebox. First, make sure that you have a new, quality brand CR2032 battery properly installed in your Smartkey.
Take the Smartkey with the removeable metal key in place, open the sliding door to the dock and insert the Smartkey with the metal key and ring portion to the top, and the buttons facing the drivers seat. Insert the fob and the dock will grab it and pull it into place on it's own. Then step on the brake pedal, press the start button, and the engine should start. To remove the Smartkey, shut the engine off, press down on the top of the Smartkey, and the dock will take over to release the fob and raise it up. Pull it out by the ring on top of the Smartkey.
Last edited by Stuart S; Jan 14, 2023 at 05:09 PM.
Tried a new battery in the key fob and tried to start with the key blade in the key fob, no luck.
Still just clicks when I try to start.
I get one click and that's it, it will not do it a second time.
"intake camshaft had ground down metal"
How exactly did you get that ground down metal out of every passage and orifice of the engine..
Typically when any engine creates metal everything must be disassembled, entire engine,
every bearing replaced and every passage cleaned out.
Unless you did all that I see a very short lifespan for that engine.
The JLR 5.0 is a tight tolerance engine,,any metal at all in it will destroy it very quickly.
Wish you the best. I see your in West Palm,, Lived there in Loxahatchee before moving to Texas.
The Jaguar XKR is up and running now.
The 400 amp Mega fuse going to the starter was blown and not allowing the starter to get battery voltage.
Swapped that Mega Fuse for a new one and started up.
Thanks to all that helped.