Welcome to the forum majoreyeswater,

If you'd made you first post in New Member Area - Intro a MUST, we would have advised you how and where to post this tech question to get the widest response.

Graham

 

I had a problem when I bought a Peugeot diesel as a runaround, to supplement the XKR. The dealer said It had a full service history 'but he must have mislaid it'. After three months it was still 'mislaid', so I threatened him with Trade Descriptions and got a full refund. Slightly different I know.
The point is don't be scared of threatening these people if they have committed an offence - take them to the cleaners

 

Just as an update to rust on my XKR - decided to rust proof it myself. I used Dinitrol. The two products I used were Dinitrol 'MIL' and '4941'. The MIL is a lot more liquid than the Waxoyl products, so gets in the cracks etc that maybe Waxoyl won't and also has a rust inhibitor. I followed the advice given by Dinitrol - they're very approachable and helpful. They didn't have a treatment chart for XK8s/XKRs, but they sent me the chart for an XJS seeing as it 's the same floorpan. This was some help. I used the MIL to start with under the frontwheel arches, taking off the plastic covers, then both the sills gaining access from the two gromits which are at either end of each one. I did the bonnet and boot lids, also paying attention to underside of the back of the car, under the boot and also at the front of the radiator (not the plastic bits!). I also treated the underside with MIL before finishing off with the 4941, which is the thicker black treatment, described by Dinitrol as 'thixotropic' meaning it hardens on the outside but stays soft on the inside, so is self healing in the event of damage from stones etc.
I bought a small compressor from Toolstore £99.98p and the medium kit from Dinitrol, which includes an applictaion gun, PPE, three one litre tins of MIL and four one litre tins of 4941 for around £90.
Be prepared to get dirty doing this job and find some covers for your drive!

 

Thanks for your message Stumpy I Don't want to take it back for a refund, The car is generally in fairly good condition and it drives beautifully! But it is definitely NOT as Described, I have written to them by recorded delivery and also contacted Trading Standards.. Hoping to get a refund of the Balance between Excellent Condition and Fair Condition HPI Value the car at £4,800 I paid £6,500 because they described it wrongly!.. I will post if I get a result either way..

 

I understand what you mean. The first car I ever bought was not as described, but I really liked it and was happy to get a partial refund/settlement!

I kept that car for several years without any problems.
So I wish you luck and happy motoring.

 

Hi Dave

for some reason I couldn't get a 2nd private message to you. Thanks for the reply.

I'd be grateful if you could let me know how much preparation to the underside should be expected. i.e. does the whole of the rust effected areas have to be cleaned back to shiny metal etc... ?
If so what tooling did you find best to have.... any power tools and fittings?

Thanks again for your time,

S.

 

Welcome to the forum Scotty Tradewind,

There's a number of restrictions on new members and Private Messaging is one one them. Full membership privileges don't apply until you have 3 Days membership and a minimum of 10 posts.

When you get a minute, please follow this link New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum to the New Member Area - Intro a MUST section and post some info about yourself and your vehicle for all members to see. In return you'll get a proper welcome and some useful advice about posting to the forum.

Graham

 

I found I have this problem as well now. Did you have to remove your engine? Is there a procedure for this repair that includes for leaving the engine in and dropping the cross beam?

 

From you pictures it appears that they did not remove the engine how did they support it while the sub frame was removed?

 

Hi All,

Just taken my 04 XKR (uk) for 100k service and these points here were show to me as well. Both front areas that require the subframe removal for repair, one floor panel (other repaired previously) and also the rear chassis rails. Will be booking it in for repair shortly. I do often repair items like this (I have rebuilt most if the lower area on a S2 XJ6) but the subframe removal is just too much effort for now.

The floor pan area failure was just the same on my old XJS as well. Shame really as a little design thought could have avoided it and improved Jaguars reputation.

Still great to own and drive it. With some of the bills I have had recently, I did think for fleeting moment that I should sell it and get something else but what else would replace it? The wife loves the car too so its going to stay for the foreseeable future.

Regards

Dodgy

 

Dodgy, the subframe removal is pretty easy if you are used to spannering, you will need a engine support, see here.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...g-worse-91230/

 

Cars will rust broadly for two main reasons:


-Poor design- which allows 'traps' to form that hold saltly water and mud for prolonged times and then encourage rust. In 'poor design' I also include poor protection- in terms of zinc coatings, insufficient under seal, galvanisation etc


-Poor quality metal- example of this are some of the 70s Italian cars, like Alfa Romeos and Lancias- which used poor quality Russian Steel.


Growing up in the UK, I would see Jaguars rust badly, especially older ones and I never knew if it was due to poor design or poor metal.


Having emigrated and gotten cars from great climates and just store them- I can answer the question of Poor metal: Jaguars use Good quality metal.


I found a 1971 XJ6 with only 16,000 miles - laying in a barn for years. CLeaned it up and got it operational- the car is superb underneath.


I never really drive it. Its cold where I live now, but the car never sees salt, and the extreme cold reduces the rate of reaction of rust.


My other car is a 2000 Model year XJR.


This is a Browns lane car like your XKs and uses the same sheet steel.


I'm very happy to say the car is also mint. I never use it in the salt or the winter. Its a Californian car, and was used a lot there, such that the laquer roasted off, but I've removed the sub frames and suspension and I'm astounded how amazingly mint it looks under neath. Because I'm paraboid and I've lost so many good beloved cars to tin worm, I still blasted it with special rust inhibitor compounds.


Here are some pictures after the compounds, but you can still see the quality of the metal. The car it self has around 100,000 miles on it.

 

After I saw the pictures I immediately went out to my car to check it, as I first read this post right after buying my car. Lying on my back, I bloodied my knuckles by beating the hell out of the side sills, listening for changes in the noise it made and checking for any paint blistering, as I made my way along both sides and every inch of the sills from front to back. I continued to check along the common areas for corrosion and was glad to see that the PO had invested in a very good undercoating once I pulled the wheel arch liners off, and I also found out that the clay like substance stuffed in the gaps around the back of the wheel arch liners is supposed to be there.