1997 XK8 VATS issues
#1
1997 XK8 VATS issues
Hello, I am having an issue with my 1997 Jaguar XK8. I don't drive the car every day and hadn't started it an almost a week, when I tried it would just crank. After trying everything I could imagine.... Fuel pressure, fuses, modules, and even a spare ecm I had on hand. I took it to my local Jag tech and he was confident the cam position sensor was the issue, after replacing it the problem still persists. No codes come up on the obdII. And the battery is brand new. My tech seems to think the VATS system has been dissabled or is somehow is the cause of my issues. Before I spend $ exceding the value of the car in towing to the nearest Jag dealer (70 miles away) and pay them $110 hr to diagnose and then to repair, I would like to pick someones brain on my issue and feel a little more confident on what avenue to proceed on.
I have also seen online on how to bypass the vats system in some cars (mostly GM cars) and wonder if this may be an option to remedy my problem.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Please know that the battery is new , tested, and in great working order. Issue boils down to not enough spark. Plugs and coils have also been checked.
Thanks in advanced for your knowledged advise.
-Mitch
I have also seen online on how to bypass the vats system in some cars (mostly GM cars) and wonder if this may be an option to remedy my problem.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Please know that the battery is new , tested, and in great working order. Issue boils down to not enough spark. Plugs and coils have also been checked.
Thanks in advanced for your knowledged advise.
-Mitch
#2
You most likely have bore wash from letting it sit. First make sure the battery has a good charge. Then hold the accelerator pedal all the way down. Crank the engine for 10 seconds and stop. Keep the pedal on the floor and repeat the 10 second cranking 3 or 4 more times. Then with the pedal on the floor crank the engine to start it and slowly release the pedal off of the floor.
Holding the pedal down shuts off the fuel. Cranking splashes oil on the cylinder wall and restores compression and by releasing slowly up on the pedal fuel is reintroduced.
The normal starting sequence is turn the key on wait for dash lights to extinguish and then start. When the key is first turned on the fuel pump is activated to pressurize the fuel rack. When the car starts you notice it goes to 1100-1200 RPM that's because the ECM enriches the mixture for start up. All that extra fuel wash the oil off an engine sitting for a long period.
By the way if you review the Jaguar shop manual their is no acronym for VATS. I have no clue what your tech is talking about, but I bet a Jag doesn't have one.
Get out and drive that CAT she will give you more love.
Holding the pedal down shuts off the fuel. Cranking splashes oil on the cylinder wall and restores compression and by releasing slowly up on the pedal fuel is reintroduced.
The normal starting sequence is turn the key on wait for dash lights to extinguish and then start. When the key is first turned on the fuel pump is activated to pressurize the fuel rack. When the car starts you notice it goes to 1100-1200 RPM that's because the ECM enriches the mixture for start up. All that extra fuel wash the oil off an engine sitting for a long period.
By the way if you review the Jaguar shop manual their is no acronym for VATS. I have no clue what your tech is talking about, but I bet a Jag doesn't have one.
Get out and drive that CAT she will give you more love.
Last edited by avern1; 09-24-2018 at 06:35 PM.
#3
Thank you avern for your advise. I will try that, although I have tried a similar sequence before under advise from another tech.
the vats from what I'm told is the vehicles security system and more specific as far as I know the language between the chip in the key, to the ring in the ignition and the ecm, and if any part of the system fails it won't allow spark to get to the engine.
-Mitch
the vats from what I'm told is the vehicles security system and more specific as far as I know the language between the chip in the key, to the ring in the ignition and the ecm, and if any part of the system fails it won't allow spark to get to the engine.
-Mitch
#5
#6
Before I launch into this, I'd like to make a suggestion to the moderators or powers that be - or have my bad observational skills pointed out to me.
Could we have a sticky entry dedicated to NO START with some of the simple fixes that many of our members have discovered. I have found the Forum to be an incredible resource, but often have to launch a search to track down a problem.
Ok, that being said, for Car Cranks, but doesn't start, this is how I envision a simple list:
1) Check battery.
2) Check grounds in trunk, including those attached to trunk wall. Also check connections (nuts) in power block and the fuses with an ohm meter as well.
3) Check ground strap under car.
4) Row the gearshift lever. A sticky microswitch can cause a no start. (Thanks to Mr. Grisar and Motorcarman for that one.)
5) Bore Wash - I'm going to be controversial...I don't see how the engine can't seal after it cools down AND you go for a start, first with the throttle depressed, then not. But this is one everyone swears by, so drip a couple drop of oil in a couple cylinders and see if she starts.
By the way, I don't claim to be an expert. I simply have a car, brought back from the dead, that on occasion tries to decide who is boss. I have used the above methods, all suggested by other Forum members (except those concerning the dread and popular bore wash) to great success.
Could we have a sticky entry dedicated to NO START with some of the simple fixes that many of our members have discovered. I have found the Forum to be an incredible resource, but often have to launch a search to track down a problem.
Ok, that being said, for Car Cranks, but doesn't start, this is how I envision a simple list:
1) Check battery.
2) Check grounds in trunk, including those attached to trunk wall. Also check connections (nuts) in power block and the fuses with an ohm meter as well.
3) Check ground strap under car.
4) Row the gearshift lever. A sticky microswitch can cause a no start. (Thanks to Mr. Grisar and Motorcarman for that one.)
5) Bore Wash - I'm going to be controversial...I don't see how the engine can't seal after it cools down AND you go for a start, first with the throttle depressed, then not. But this is one everyone swears by, so drip a couple drop of oil in a couple cylinders and see if she starts.
By the way, I don't claim to be an expert. I simply have a car, brought back from the dead, that on occasion tries to decide who is boss. I have used the above methods, all suggested by other Forum members (except those concerning the dread and popular bore wash) to great success.
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