Forgive this ignorant (3.5 GPA), poor (60k salary) american for asking but...
What's the reliability on the 03 and 05 Xkrs?
I only just learned about them, having ignored jaguars due to the reliability horror stories....but they're right in my 15 grand price range...
And a trusted ssource informed me that the xkrs of this era are unusually reliable considering their heritage, due to some crucial differences in the engine and transmission (gearbox as you Brits call it)

So, is it true? Is the xkr nnoticeably more dependable than its lesser siblings?

I can take electrical gremlins and stuff iI can address with preventative maintenance.
What I can't take is stuff that blows the engine up without warning, or the transmission grenading/needing replacement.

I also need something with simple, unrigid electricals. I have big plans for whatever car I get and they involve a tablet in the dashboard and a remote start system, among many others....

Also first post I guess

 

Actually I need to clarify what I mean when I say "unrigid" electrical.
Basically, if you think about newer luxury cars, everything is entirely computerized using proprietary software. I can jack into a 12v rail and send pulses down a negative line, but I cannot interface with a "body control module" or whatever they call them now.

Mostly this is so the remote starter can go in more easily. An easy cheat is to use the key in the dash technique, which I can make very robust, but still.....

 

The 03-06 Cars have most of the bugs worked out.

However, there is substantial complexity in the Electrical System with 2 Serial Data Networks connecting numerous Modules that control almost all facets of the Car.

Most problems can be addressed with the help of members of this Forum.

 

The 03-06 cars are still using many systems designed back in 94 for the X300 sedans. Even the dash controls are right out of my 96 XJ6! The big change is the 4.2 engine and 6 speed ZF transmission, a very well executed drivetrain! Looking closely at this car, the components are most of the finest available and it is well built. Its just complex and things do go wrong. When they do, they can be costly to fix. I dinged a wheel and the final cost to square it away was over $2500. If you want the best, you pay the most! Just the rules!

 

joekitch,
While the '03-'06 models dealt with the most obvious of the 4.0L engine's shortcomings, (the plastic tensioners were replaced with metal ones, so that sudden blown up engines were no longer an issue), other costly repairs remained the same throughout the years. Things like the failure of the hydraulic hoses and actuator latch in the convertibles are pretty much the same. In my opinion, the Mercedes sourced 5 speed transmission of the earlier cars is a better, more bulletproof unit than the ZF 6 speed of the later cars. That is not to say that either won't need eventual service with high mileage. If you're considering buying, always try to get the lowest mileage model you can afford, but more importantly, get one with a service history that allows you enough information to document what's been done. If it's prior to 2003. make sure the tensioners were replaced, or budget an extra $1500 or so to have it done as soon as you take possession.
Good luck, they are beautiful cars that afford a lot of pleasure to drive for the price.

 

Joe--if you are looking at any similar vintage car of this caliber you should expect that there will be certain fiddly things that you will need to take care of. Drivetrain-wise I believe the post-2002 models are really pretty bulletproof. But the various electrical sensors in these cars can be a headache. You can get frequent false positive warning messages and things like memory seat and steering wheel adjustments can behave quirkily. But still the car is the nicest thing to look at on the road and that is worth it to me.

Doug

 

+1. Service history if available is key. These are generally bulletproof cars if maintained and driven, but a 2003 is a 10 year old car and that means it will need something.

 

I started my mod product with an early XK8 and then realized it would be far cheaper to get the later version because they fixed hundreds of the annoying problems when they went to the 4.2. I did have a transmission problem with the later car where the sequential switch needed to be replaced, but the earlier car had to have its transmission rebuilt (done by prior owner). The difference in price is low compared to the value of all of these fixes in my opinion.

However more people have experience with the earlier cars and mods seem to ge going in easier on them as a result.

In any case, particularity if you aren't going to heavily modify the car, I'd advise going with one of the 4.2s if you have the choice.

 

I think that's the first time I've ever witnessed someone reveal their GPA and salary on the intarwebs!...

Do what I did- buy one previously owned by a mechanic. Agreed with the others though- these are unusually well-built cars, most certainly including the earlier ones like I have if they were maintained just like any of the later ones as well. Bonus points for the Mercedes-derived transmission in the earlier XKRs as well. Bombproof.

The only trouble I've had is with the hydraulic hose fittings for the top (non-issue with a coupe) and a couple of leaky heater hoses that I'm going to have to take my supercharger off to get at (non-issue with a XK8), but both items are DIY-able in a weekend. I'm still in under a grand for parts over the course of one year so far, not counting an oil change or any optional add-ons I wanted to put in (iPhone adaptor, wheel spacers, etc). That's a MUCH welcome six times less what I spent maintaining an older Porsche 944 Turbo the year prior. This old XKR is the cheapest 'sports car' I've ever had the pleasure of keeping up. And it's almost daily driven, btw. Cranks every time, no electrical issues, engine purrs as it should at 127k miles. A newer one will be no worse. Keep in mind these came from the Ford ownership days, and that's a good thing. Ignoring a few bits of familiar-looking switchgear. But it works well, which is what counts.

And it might even be arguably less/nill if it were a XK8 coupe over the same period! These cars are just big, fairly-simple V8 GTs from an era before electronics and complexity went overboard and priced out the home garage enthusiast.

 

If a poor schmuck like me can keep a 99 XJR on the road (while making payments on it) while supporting a family of 5 on $24K a year, anybody can afford one. Of course, I'm not the best at making wise decisions...

 

We bought a 2003 4.2 XKR just over 2 years ago now. It had 70,000 miles on it and a full service history, mostly from jag main dealers. Since then it has done just over 20,000 miles and in that time the following has been done:

3x oil and filter change
pretty much all front and rear suspension bushes
full set of tyres
2x O2 sensors (there are 4 in total, WHY????)
Broken fuel pressure sensor wire fixed
all front oil cooler mounts replaced
new front discs and new pads all round
1x front wheel bearing
4 wheel alignment

Still broken / to do:
seat headrest fix
final camber adjust on the left hand wheels
needs a set of tyres again

I do most of the work myself, it costs about the same as any other car to run if you avoid dealer labour costs, except tyres which if you have the 20" rims are expensive and there is no way round that. They eat tyres if the alignments are out, and the suspension is not really up to the job of big power, brakes and tyres so they eat suspension bushes too.

I am mechanical, not electrical other than normal fault finding stuff, so the electrics on the jag scare the hell out of me. Too many computers and stuff. I'm not into hacking cars about, if you want a car with a tablet and remote start, then I'd suggest buying a car with that already in. Just be prepared for heartache trying to integrate external systems into the jag.

Cheers,
Rich

 

hahah +1 except for the family

 

Isn't it true that mid 2002 and after engine build XK's had the new tensioners? I had my vin number checked by dealer and my engine is supposed to be built after the new tensioners.

 

I believe the switch to the 3rd generation tensioners happened in late 2001. However, that is when the switch was made to the engines. You can't go by the manufacture date on the B-pillar, as engines and final manufacture builds are not simultaneous.

You must use the engine code or, as you did Phil, the VIN #.