Further research indicated the PWM motor was available on Amazon for less the $100. A pump capable of 255 LPH is ok for even the XKR. . That motor is a Quantum Fuel Systems unit and has Lifetime warranty. Ebay also has this motor. SEARCH using Quantum Fuel Systems 4.2L Ranger Rover fuel pump motor. The Amazon search also shows a complete module that possibly would work but I have to visual notice to make a comparison.
Automotive Fuel Pumps: Fuel pumps for cars, trucks, & more, Free Shipping | QFS From Google Search
From Amazon
Hopefully this provides a closer path to a pump or module that will be less expensive. They are PWM motors since Return less EFI Fuel Pumps. Jay has provided much more info and my experience is with Return type systems. The PWM is a new experience for me.

 

Here is the Amazon listing I neglected to post to the possible fit unit.

 

Hey Man. Good morning.

So for this do you suggest removing the pump out of the basket and reusing the old?
Is the basket a match to the cradle in the bottom of the tank?
Sender electrics and all that talk to the dash?
If so, this would be phenomenal

 

I have just overserved other photos of the OEM unit. This is a similar looking unit but no way to tell. Since you disassembled the module and replaced the motor, Probably not to difficult to just use their available motor and renew to unit. There are blankets to resize a loose motor available also.

 

I think it's a pressure relief valve to protect the pump motor.

Anyways, whatever it is, that retaining clip wasn't secure enough. I'd be tempted to give the one on the new pump a little assistance with some fuel-proof epoxy or similar.

What a PITA.

 

[QUOTE=michaelh;2861079]I think it's a pressure relief valve to protect the pump motor.


I agree with Michael since it is obviously some type of exit for the fuel and anything other than pressure doesn't make sense.

Jay, I would say that if this pump performed multiple driving scenarios with no issues it's logical that this pump works as it should..

​ ​ The pump failed, I would get another one for sure. Good luck

 

Hey MAN!!! My favorite dude! How ya been?

It is a pisser... I think I did a poor job. Used some regular quick cure JB WELD and plugged it. But I think if it's completely immersed in fuel it won't take long, especially if there is 50lbs of pressure (considering the size of the whole it will probably be more like 1lb/sq inch? Is that how it works) is under it and just blows the plug out... I did scrape up the cavity to give the JB Weld something to hold on to. We will see. Before ordering the next replacement (and I still have the old one that works) my thinking was that I will NEVER be confident driving around with the plugged unit. I should have tested to see how deep on the underside of the cavity (where that little retainer was living) I could go before I struck something like a spinning vein for the pump,,, and ran a small screw down in the hole. At the bottom of the cavity (don't know what else to call it) is a small hole the size of a pencil lead... I wasn't thinking.

Got a good suggestion for a fuel proof epoxy? I'll take any suggestions. You know me!

Trusting you are well, Mike!

 

[QUOTE=Shoreguy;2862354]I think it's the right thing and more importantly, I hope it helps folks and people can find the thread.

Got a suggestion for a good fuel proof epoxy?

 

Hi Jay,
I'm good, thanks:- hope you are too and the house is coming on without too many surprises.

Certainly no more than that and likely less.

According to the blurb, JB Weld is fuelproof so you should be OK to use it to help secure the clamp. You probably need to retain the valve as a failsafe in case downstream of the pump outlet gets blocked.

Since the original pump uses the same setup, it's probably a case of idea good but execution faulty on the cheaper pump.