Once again I find myself seeking the help of forum members regarding my 2004 XKR convertible with 60,000 miles. Hopefully some day I can contribute my fair share for some one else.

Came out of a motel in southern New Mexico and the engine would crank but not start. Ended up having it towed to the Jag dealer in Albuquerque, Labor Day weekend no less $$. The engine appeared to be performing perfectly the day before with no apparent warning indicators. Was told possible rebuild based on a computer print out of a litany of significant problems. Dealer guessed it would cost in the neighborhood of $20K $$...... Had the Jag towed to my home in Heath, TX a suburb just east of Dallas, Tx. $$$$

The Jag is in exceptionally good condition, at least an 8 possible a 9 on a scale of 10. I, not to mention my daughter and her daughters, very much want to see it stay in the family. The condition and nature of this Jag is just to good to let it go as a result of engine failure

In short, what I need is some suggestions/recommendations on a good independent repair shop that knows Jags in the Dallas, Tx area. Any input would be greatly, greatly appreciated.

Cordially,

 

My geography is not great but Decatur looks not too bad and Bob (motorcarman, one of the site's jag techs) is there I believe.

 

First I would determine EXACTLY what is wrong with it. You need something more definitive than "possible rebuild". You can get a running low mile 4.2 XKR motors on eBay for less than $4000 all day long.

 

Also, you should know you are in the wrong Forum. You Cat is an X100 (XK8) Cats through 2006. This Forum is X150 (XK) Cats 2007-2015. Perhaps one of the moderators will shift your post for you.

 

Not Hardly...
Jaguar XKR in Cars & Trucks | eBay

 

I would install a LS crate motor with a 6 sp manual and do it for around $10K

 

Can you please post the "litany of significant problems"? It is really hard to believe that an engine which worked fine one day would decide to self-destruct without prior symptoms.

 

Go get a Jaguar indie to look at it. Sounds more like a fuel pump problem which is a comon problem on the X100. The dealer's bid doesn't make sense on a car that's worth about half that price. There are alternatives that an independent mechanic can recomend.

 

To paraphrase what Red Skelton used to say "This just don't look right to me boy". By all means get a 2nd opinion from an indie Jag mechanic and don't panic just yet.

 

IMHO the dealer price is a scare tactic to turn you away from the car and into a newer one. As said above, troubleshoot it or find someone who will troubleshoot it. There's no real boogie man hidden in these cars. It still takes fuel, ignition and compression and make the wheels go round and round.

Cranks but won't start has many different legs towards locating the problem. Fuel or ignition would be where I'd start. Good luck and don't give up on it.

 

I said you can get a good MOTOR not CAR for $4000. His car, except for the motor, is good.

 

I've moved the thread to the appropriate XK8/R (X100) model specific forum

 

What a worry! Everyone who reads this story will be rooting hard for you. It does seem a really odd history, though - in my experience the really expensive things are normally associated with really expensive sounds. But you say it just didn't start? That's it? Could you post the list of apparent faults on this relatively young engine?

 

As was mentioned earlier, contact motorcarman. The cost of shipping the car to him for diagnosis and repair will be more than made up by having one of the most experienced mechanics on the forum repair the car at a fair price.

 

First let me thank everyone for their many responses, it is greatly appreciated.

Secondly in response to JagV8 you are correct Decatur is not that far and I will look into you suggestion.

Lastly Patrick Wong asked for a list of the problems. The following is a list of the Jaguar dealer's diagnostics.

HOOKED UP SDD AND CHECKED FOR FAULTS
PO193 FUEL RAIL PRESSURE SENSOR CIRCUIT HIGH INPUT
PO307 CYLINDER 7 MISFIRE
PO305 CYLINDER 5 MISFIRE
VIEWED FUEL PRESSURE ON DATALOGGER AND SHOWED 70PSI
DEPRESSED SCHRADER VALVE AND NO FUEL CAME OUT
REMOVED SPARK PLUGS FOR CYLINDER 3, 5, AND 7. FUEL FOULED
RECOMMENT COMPRESSION TEST
PERFORMED WET AND DRY COMPRESSION TESTS
BANK 1 CYL 1 DRY 85 WET 70
CYL 3 DRY 85 WET 70
CYL 5 DRY 100 WET 120
CYL 7 DRY 70 WET 100
BANK 2
CYL 2 DRY 70 WET 75
CYL 4 DRY 80 WET 80
CYL 8 DRY 75 WET 75
LEAK FROM BELL HOUSING AREA IS OIL WHICH IS FUEL SATURATED
ENGINE HAS TOO LOW OF COMPRESSION

*** Amended update. I had the fuel pump and fuel filter replaced by Jaguar approximately 18 months ago.

Additional note: Since my original post I have begun to have a slight smell of gas which was not the case for the first 3/4 days. I have checked the engine compartment and under the auto and can find no appearance of a leak. I have been leaving the garage door ajar to prevent any build up of the smell.

Again, I thank all of you for your support and encouragement.
Cordially

 

I wouldn't think a 2004 would have this problem- but maybe bore wash? I can't imagine compression readings that low WET.

Maybe try pulling the fuel pump fuse and cranking it a bit to clear the fuel out. It *looks* like a flooding issue, but I did not think it possible with these cars.

 

Misfire could be low compression, but odd that it's reported on the cylinders showing the highest readings.

I don't understand compression figures that are lower wet than dry?

 

Ya, odd- It doesn't make sense that it would run before with compression this low.

 

I'd try the bore wash procedure, plug plugs but a tablespoon of oil in each cylinder.

 

This car has a return-less fuel supply. It means it supplies the required fuel pressure to the rail, as per the input of the fuel pressure sensor. That pressure is then regulated at the pump (instead of the rail in a traditional system). On the face of it, this mechanism is broken and the fuel pump is supplying maximum pressure all the time. The fuel pressure measures a pretty constant 55psi on my car. Should not be anywhere near 70psi. I assume this excess pressure spills fuel everywhere, washes the bores, gets into the oil, etc.

So, 2 things:

The sensor is now broken, pegged at 70psi, the pump is trying to diminish the pressure all the way, and produces no pressure at the rail (consistent with the rail valve showing no pressure). Sensor is $55, and can be changed in 10 min. Also check the vacuum line at the sensor, too. The fuel pressure is available over OBDII, so maybe you can hook a vacuum pump to the vacuum port of the sensor and see if you can read a difference as you pump it up. Maybe you can find the fuse to the fuel pump, and then read the fuel pressure again to see if it is close to zero. You know, debugging...

More likely, there is something wrong with the fuel pump. From memory, folks have posted problems with a bad batch of valves in these (expensive) pumps that would not last. The bottom line is that the pump is no longer able to regulate the pressure. Might be fixable (repair), but you might need a new one. I believe they are fairly expensive ($500, $600), and I know of no alternative.


There is a rubber plug at the bottom of the bell housing. if they popped the plug and oil came out, it likely means the rear main seal is leaking. Cheap seal, but big labor $ to fix as the transmission needs to come off. At this point, empty it, clean it as best you can, and keep an eye on it very periodically. Double/triple check your oil level VERY often. It it leaks just a bit, there is an off chance that once you figure out the fuel problem and change the oil, it might be ok (I assume oil with fuel in it becomes very runny and could go past the seal, maybe).

Best of luck, keep us posted.