It's a beautiful day here and I am itching to get my XKR 4.0 running again after being out of commission since the beginning of the year.

I just finished a fairly major project to replace all the:
- heater hoses
- knock sensors
- vacuum lines
- plastic bleed hoses
- oil cooler lines
- front tensioners
- top tensioners
- engine water pump
- valve cover gaskets
- oil seal on vibration dampener
- genuine nuts and bolts for the missing cooling fans.

Also installed a 10% top supercharger pulley, upsized the supercharger cooling pump, new Mina intake pipe (stock air filter housing) as well as powder coated the intercoolers and painted up the font timing and valve covers.

Did a hard reset on the car to re-program the ECU for the increased air due to the smaller pulley.

So looks great, but...now it has a misfire problem - Any ideas?

Symptoms - Idles rough like it has a racing cam, but actually runs great at top end, has the following codes:

(BlueDriver ODB2 Reader)
Confirmed:
P0171 (Bank 1 too Lean) and P0174 (Bank 2 too lean) - (Would a bad connection to the MAF sensor do this?)

Pending:
ALL cylinders show a misfire code...
(P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0305, P0306, P0307, P0308.

Also...
P1316 and P1000
(Will update when I drive long enough to see what this is)

Any ideas?

 

Intake must be air tight from MAF sensor to supercharger or computer detects a leaner mixture for the volume of air it reads on MAF. Since both banks show up lean, it would indicate a common air issue from supercharger back rather than an air leak on intake manifold. Doublecheck the plastic tube that plugs into the throttle body on lower right side for starters. Go over all vacuum lines, too. You may resort to a whiff of starting spray or other flammable vapor to search for leak. Having an OBD2 gauge for feedback is helpful.

P1000 is saying ECU hasn't run enough to complete all of its assessments.

P1316 is excessive emissions detected. Essentially you have a misfire so it's detecting odd values at the O2 sensors. (quote from google)

The "misfire" could be just a symptom of rough running at idle as perceived from the crank sensor rather than a true misfire detected from the coils.

 

Easyest way for inlet leaks is to take out the air filter ..block up all the holes with gaffer tape and put a smoke capsule in and light it . Watch to see where it comes out .If you can get a proper smoke test done where smoke is pumped in much better.

 

I'd hope that smoke bomb doesn't "smoke" the MAF sensor.

 

Do you want to find the lead or pi$$ about for days?

 

Thanks for your advice…spot on.

I had previously made a smoke machine that was used to diagnose my Honda Pilot’s evap system, so I disconnected the new Mina tube from the air cleaner/MAF sensor, taped up the end and connected the smoke machine to the breather tube.

Turned it on and there was smoke all over the throttle body area. Turns out I managed to break off the brand new brake booster tube right at the connector. Fix was to remove the throttle body and push the broken piece on through, the cut the existing tube and add a short piece of rubber tubing with 2 clamps to get the length back to make up for the broken piece.

To add insult to injury, when I removed the throttle body I discovered that the gasket had slipped when first installed and it was actually sitting twisted and not in the bolt holes. Fortunately I had a spare gasket so it’s all properly installed now.

Strarted her up and she purrs now. Cleared the codes and the restricted performance went off, so ready to test drive ,

Thanks again.

 

Always listen to old people .If you don't when they die you live on in ignorance ..

Smokin Solution

 

Well......after starting up the car up after sitting awhile the same old problem popped up...misfire on all cylinders.

I thought OK, now I know what to do. I hooked up my smoke machine and sure enough, there is smoke coming out
around the SC bypass valve, and since it was a used one I bought to replace the one I broke taking it apart, I figured that
was the problem. Just to be sure I pinched off the hose connection and tried again...still smoke at that location.

I am at a loss to figure out exactly where the smoke is coming from, as it is coming out in the area between the valve and the cooler,
but I can't determine exactly where. I have a borescope connected to my iPhone and still can't locate the source. Short of tearing it all apart again, I am running out of ideas. I tried increasing and decreasing the air pressure on the smoke to get a better view, buy no luck.
Also tried increasing the air pressure and spraying soapy water to see if it bubbled somewhere. Nope.

Any suggestions?

 

Misfire Update.....

Took the throttle body off and discovered the problem. Some dummy managed to pinch the little vacuum line going to the MAP sensor when putting the throttle body back on.

At first the line was just closed off, allowing the engine to run but just set a code after driving awhile. It would clear it and run for awhile longer. Then finally it pinched off and looked like a mouse took a bite out of it. After that the engine misfired bad and would not run.

Sooo.......I found a new piece of hose and replaced it and while putting the throttle body back on I mistakenly tried to use a screwdriver to hole the throttle "wheel" open with a screw driver while hooking the throttle cable back on and ..... yes the plastic pin broke off.

I now am the proud owner ($$$$) of a used throttle body that is missing the plastic throttle cable guide piece.

Unfortunately after putting it all back together I still have misfires and it will not run.

I think I will take a week vacation to Boston.

It sure looks nice.

Wonder if a Tesla motor would fit in it.......

 

Happy New Year, time to update on the problem resolution for my temperamental beauty, Phoenix Red.

Our trip to Maine to see the fall colors was great, and after that a trip to visit kids near Camp Lejune in North Carolina. (don't drink the water).
The car has been quietly waiting in the garage mocking my inability to understand her current mood.

Well, I think I found the problem (see earlier posts).

I discovered the reason for all cylinders misfiring and basically not running at all (again) is due to the rubber seals from the intercooler to the supercharger having sucked in and letting tons of air in. To be exact, its the "AJ86925 Duct Seal Supercharger to Intercooler (x2)"

Not a hard problem to resolve, I thought, so I popped the supercharger cover off and flipped it up so I could see and remove the clamp plates. I put it all back together and made sure the bolts were tight, and took it for a spin. Aha, that did it.

Well no. It barely made it back to the garage.

That was awhile back and I needed more time to fight off the urge to google (duck duck go) electric conversions.

So today I have it apart again, and sure enough the seal was not tight and was sucked in again.

The only thing that makes any sense to me is that when I powder coated the intercoolers some of the paint around the thread ends was keeping the bolt from drawing in properly and thus tightening up before it pulled the seal faces tight. I have now run a tap thought all the threads so that should eliminate that issue.

I am about to put it back together so as a precaution I have cleaned all the residual oil off all the parts and am planning on adding some sealant to help it stay put.

Not sure if the 10% boost (smaller) pulley upgrade on the supercharger is increasing the suction on these parts that much to make a difference, my guess is that it is not related, but I would welcome any thoughts on this.

There are also two different size bolts (20mm and 25 mm) used to install the plates, so I will also double check to be sure the right bolt is in the right place.

So much for now.

 

TSB for you.