yes, I have the intermittent ABS/Traction warning, typically it appears on first start of the day and goes away after shutting off and restarting the car(most of the time..). Does not appear during driving(or at least I cant remember that it has ever done so). Sometimes the abs lamp comes on after starting car(without the ABS traction warning) and driving away, but goes off after about 100m or so, I guess that's a normal check for the computer to see if all is well with sensors(?)

So far I have checked the wiring(in the front where is is most likely to appear) all good there, around 1k ohms, and "wiggled" them(the outer cables) around aswell, no open curciut problems.
cleaned contact pins going into abs nodule and at the sensors. also cleaned the relevant fuses

The abs module has been repaired at some point here in Sweden(has a sticker from a well reputed shop that rebuild ABS units, no entry in service records though).

sensors cleaned,all looks good,

put in a new sensor at right front, yesterday, a quick drive and no promblems(I doubt it cured it...), could a sensor itself cause these symptoms?? open curcuit promblems within sensor itself?

Battery(2years old) health is at 12.5v, uncharged, read here/forum that battery might cause this(and other problems..which I currently dont have) ABS/traction failure? tempting to think that a new battery would solve this..., did a test with volmeter at start and it went down to ca: 10.5V at it's lowest, what should be minimum here?

any suggestions? ground points problems(if thats the problem it should manifest itself during driving aswell I think)?

have now downloaded "images" for the Jaguar SDD 130 software to be runned in a "virtual box", this needs a mongoose/mangoose cable, will this pinpoint to where the problem actually is?

Cheers!

 

Go for a drive where there are left and right sharp turns. If the message appears you have a worn rear wheel bearing. If not keep looking.
wj

 

You need to interrogate the ABS module to read the DTC(s).

I'm going to guess front wheel speed sensor link harness but..........

Only an actual DTC will verify.

 

Ok, so thé "inboard" wiring/connectors are also common to failure?, did not know that, of what I've read the outboard ones typically fail, will do a metering/wiggle of the inboard ones, that's got to be it, thanks motorcarman,
Cheers!

 

The link harnesses connect just behind the wheel arch liners and down the control arm.

If you know what speed sensor is faulted, you can swap sides to see if it follows the harness?
Then you can replace the bad one.

The speed sensors themselves RARELY are the problem.

 

took the front connectors apart, the ones that plugs into ABS sensor, looked all right in there, soldered the crimped connection to wire, cleaned and electric connection sprayed them, still problem persist...
Will check the rear ones,

 

The connecting harness usually fails internally due to flexing in the wheel well, so visual inspection is not useful.

 

aha, so the so open circuit might be further up the line then, so have to replace the wire itself? thought that I've would have seen that when measuring and moving the harness about above the sensor, read other ppl redoing the whole d-mn thing, including wire, guess thats what I'm going to do aswell
Cheers!

 

Slugger,

Maybe worth checking the ABS ground.

See my thread below.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ground-236906/

 

Another issue may be starved or cracked solder joints on the circuit board in your ABS module. The most common joints to fail are the ones on the two large pins for the electric pump connector, so when these modules are "repaired," often only these two joints are reflowed. But in my experience, many more of the circuit board solder joints are starved from the factory and can fail over time. I reflow and supplement all the solder joints on the board when I repair one of these modules. Note that if your module has had a hole cut in the cover, then only your pump pin solder joints have been repaired, and there's certainly no guarantee they haven't failed again.

You really do need to have the car scanned by a system capable of reading the Chassis (C-prefix) and Network (U-prefix) diagnostic trouble codes. Otherwise you are just guessing.

Cheers,

Don

 

OK, thanks all!, i did fabricate new harness cables(are going to redo them with proper silicone SiHF GLP cables), problem is now gone, have also managed to get IDS v125 working somewhat, old laptop and painfully slow..so..will load the v125 IDS/WinXP virtualbox "image" onto a new laptop with more RAM, then the guesswork would be over with, but in this instance it seems it actually was the harnesses,
Cheers!

 

Thanks David, ground was the last place I checked, should be first thing to look out for. ABS & traction now function proper again.
Cheers!