Advice on Buying an XK8 Convertible
I had a 1989 XJS convertible for about 7 years and this was such a great forum, and, such a wealth of knowledge that was freely shared, thanks.
I have a chance to buy a relatives 1997 XK8 convertible, 45,000miles. He had it since 2000 and put 25K on it. Stopped driving it and lost interest in it about 8 months ago. There it sits with a dead battery. He says the hydraulic system needs juice every year, so yeah, theres a leak. Minor scratches. He showed me a sheaf of dealer repair invoices, yikes. Multiple batteries, I'll say this is the third in the 20 years he has owned it. A new water pump at 23000 miles AND 36000 miles. "Replace the secondary cam tensioners" at 31000 miles. Is this the timing chain tensioner job that needs to be done on this engine, or something different. Looks like $800 of labor in 2009. Well maintained with oil changes on schedule, but sat in garage now with no oil change in at least 8 months, probably more. Tires were $380 each, but now 9 years old with 10000 miles on them. Those are the things I remember, but, there was a pile of invoices there. I'm thinking of buying it since he is giving me the relative price of $3000. Then I have to drive it 200 miles home. New battery? Oil change? Get it towed? Run? Advice please
I have a chance to buy a relatives 1997 XK8 convertible, 45,000miles. He had it since 2000 and put 25K on it. Stopped driving it and lost interest in it about 8 months ago. There it sits with a dead battery. He says the hydraulic system needs juice every year, so yeah, theres a leak. Minor scratches. He showed me a sheaf of dealer repair invoices, yikes. Multiple batteries, I'll say this is the third in the 20 years he has owned it. A new water pump at 23000 miles AND 36000 miles. "Replace the secondary cam tensioners" at 31000 miles. Is this the timing chain tensioner job that needs to be done on this engine, or something different. Looks like $800 of labor in 2009. Well maintained with oil changes on schedule, but sat in garage now with no oil change in at least 8 months, probably more. Tires were $380 each, but now 9 years old with 10000 miles on them. Those are the things I remember, but, there was a pile of invoices there. I'm thinking of buying it since he is giving me the relative price of $3000. Then I have to drive it 200 miles home. New battery? Oil change? Get it towed? Run? Advice please
First things first. Can you do the necessary maintenance and repairs yourself (there will be plenty of them)? If not, run away immediately. These cars can empty your bank account in a heartbeat if you have to pay someone else to keep them roadworthy....
Three batteries in 20 years doesn't sound bad to me - especially if the car hasn't been kept on a tender.
New battery is a definite. If the fuel pump hasn't died in its sleep the car should start. 45K is not a high mileage so there shouldn't be too much worn out, although anything rubber will be suspect due to age alone (cooling, suspension, etc.). I woulldn't drive the car at any speed with old tyres.
if the secondary tensioners were replaced relatively recently, they should be OK, otherwise they may be 2nd-gen, which are still liable to failure.
Check the usual suspects thoroughly for any rust issues.
New battery is a definite. If the fuel pump hasn't died in its sleep the car should start. 45K is not a high mileage so there shouldn't be too much worn out, although anything rubber will be suspect due to age alone (cooling, suspension, etc.). I woulldn't drive the car at any speed with old tyres.
if the secondary tensioners were replaced relatively recently, they should be OK, otherwise they may be 2nd-gen, which are still liable to failure.
Check the usual suspects thoroughly for any rust issues.
Jon89 has it spot on. If you cannot mend it its a money pit . 3 batteries in 20 years thats good .I would have said a new one every 4 years .
Trending Topics
POSITIVES
same owner for 20 years
relatives are (usually) more trustworthy than dealers or private sellers
low miles (but see NEGATIVES)
stack of dealer invoices - history means a lot
NEGATIVES
not run for 8 months - that's into 'recommissioning' territory
low miles (regular limited use is far better than sitting in a garage for extended periods)
potentially lethal tyres
hydraulic leak - could be costly but only if you're really unlucky
scratches - OK if they will polish out but expensive if paint is required
It's not a candidate for driving 200 miles home. Even with an oil change and new tyres there's potential for cooling or transmission issues after sitting unused for months.
At minimum, suspension bushes and probably dampers will need replacement. Brakes will be due an overhaul.
If you can and want to do the work, it's good provenance for a project. If you would have to have a specialist do it, find another one that has been fully maintained. As stated in earlier posts, the 'bargain' buying price will very soon be exceeded by labour costs.
Graham
same owner for 20 years
relatives are (usually) more trustworthy than dealers or private sellers
low miles (but see NEGATIVES)
stack of dealer invoices - history means a lot
NEGATIVES
not run for 8 months - that's into 'recommissioning' territory
low miles (regular limited use is far better than sitting in a garage for extended periods)
potentially lethal tyres
hydraulic leak - could be costly but only if you're really unlucky
scratches - OK if they will polish out but expensive if paint is required
It's not a candidate for driving 200 miles home. Even with an oil change and new tyres there's potential for cooling or transmission issues after sitting unused for months.
At minimum, suspension bushes and probably dampers will need replacement. Brakes will be due an overhaul.
If you can and want to do the work, it's good provenance for a project. If you would have to have a specialist do it, find another one that has been fully maintained. As stated in earlier posts, the 'bargain' buying price will very soon be exceeded by labour costs.
Graham
Thanks for all the input. I really like the looks of these cars, but, I can see the negatives. After looking at all his invoices, PLUS the $37,500 that he paid for it in 2000, I am leaning toward passing on this, too bad.
As usual I think that most XK8/R owner are to pessimistic 
You need a new battery, check oil, brake fluid and coolant, if it starts and nothing leaks - drive home!
8 months of standing still is no problem. My XKR stays in the garage for 6 months during winter every year.
9 year old tires dont have to be a problem if it is quality tires and the car has been kept inside a garage. Check air pressure and look for cracks.
The same goes for hoses, bushings and other rubber stuff.
As an XJS owner you probably know that old car needs some maintenance.
The upper tensioners has been taken care of. GOOD.
The hydraulic hoses is expensive ($700 at Top Hydraulic) but are not that hard to change. It takes a day or two and a lot of interior parts has to come out, but that are just screws.
And normally your front suspension has sagged. That means at least new top mounts and maybe springs.
Sooner or later you may have to change the fuel pump, and that is a PITA.
Other than that there is just regular service and normal wear and tear.
Good luck!

You need a new battery, check oil, brake fluid and coolant, if it starts and nothing leaks - drive home!
8 months of standing still is no problem. My XKR stays in the garage for 6 months during winter every year.
9 year old tires dont have to be a problem if it is quality tires and the car has been kept inside a garage. Check air pressure and look for cracks.
The same goes for hoses, bushings and other rubber stuff.
As an XJS owner you probably know that old car needs some maintenance.
The upper tensioners has been taken care of. GOOD.
The hydraulic hoses is expensive ($700 at Top Hydraulic) but are not that hard to change. It takes a day or two and a lot of interior parts has to come out, but that are just screws.
And normally your front suspension has sagged. That means at least new top mounts and maybe springs.
Sooner or later you may have to change the fuel pump, and that is a PITA.
Other than that there is just regular service and normal wear and tear.
Good luck!
No one here is being pessimistic. Just realistic. Most of us who have been here on the forum for many years fully realize how much work and expense these cars can be....
As I originally stated, if you can do the required maintenance and repairs yourself and you enjoy doing so, then go ahead and roll the dice. You may be glad you did. But you may also be glad if you decide NOT to do so....
As I originally stated, if you can do the required maintenance and repairs yourself and you enjoy doing so, then go ahead and roll the dice. You may be glad you did. But you may also be glad if you decide NOT to do so....
NOR, that is encouraging. I will give it more thought. I can do most of the work myself, it takes me a lot longer than normal, but I can usually work through it. I do miss a Jaguar.
A question on the hydraulic top. The XJS had a switch to disable the hydraulics. You could then operate the top by hand, no big deal. I see you can insert an Allen wrench in the hydraulic motor and disable the hydraulics. Can you then easily put the top up and down by hand? If so, I could at least work the top, and, delay the work and expense of the rams and hoses while I concentrate on something else.
As I mentioned in response to your original post in the XJ8 forum, it's very unlikely that you will have to replace hoses on a 97. That was the only year those particular hoses were used and I have never heard of a failure. You can get the cylinders rebuilt if they are leaking- look for oil on the ground or on the chassis just in front of the rear wheels. Better yet, take out the back seat cushion and look for oil puddle.
You can operate the top manually; it's covered in the owners manual, I think.
You can operate the top manually; it's covered in the owners manual, I think.
edit:- RJ beat me to it again!
If you don't mind the trip, then maybe go see it and make an informed decision after a good inspection/test drive?
A person on each side as you get older, but it's not a struggle for one, just take your time.
If you worked on and kept up a XJS, this car will be far less cuts to your hands in the engine compartment. LOL Those 12V with all the hoses were a pain on the hands and back.
I would check for rust, but sounds like it was kept out of the snow and salt.
GOOD LUCK
If you worked on and kept up a XJS, this car will be far less cuts to your hands in the engine compartment. LOL Those 12V with all the hoses were a pain on the hands and back.
I would check for rust, but sounds like it was kept out of the snow and salt.
GOOD LUCK
As I mentioned in response to your original post in the XJ8 forum, it's very unlikely that you will have to replace hoses on a 97. That was the only year those particular hoses were used and I have never heard of a failure. You can get the cylinders rebuilt if they are leaking- look for oil on the ground or on the chassis just in front of the rear wheels. Better yet, take out the back seat cushion and look for oil puddle.
You can operate the top manually; it's covered in the owners manual, I think.
You can operate the top manually; it's covered in the owners manual, I think.
The possible purchase will be very expensive unless you do the work yourself. Costs of repairs can easily exceed the value of the car. Been there, done that. In tlong run, it’s easier and cheaper to start w a well maintained, reasonable mileage car w a service history.
LOL, a GTHawk...had a nice 63 Hawk, I have a 63 Avanti, in pieces, that I am putting together. My wife and I are planning a visit, we'll look at the car. Should be rust free. Washington, garage kept.









