Morning guys. I have to admit, this is one job where practice doesn't help. I spent about 30 minutes trying to unhook the darn tabs holding the gear selector surround in place. This must be the 12th time I've done it. . . Doesn't get any easier.

This morning it occurred to me - what takes all the time? 1) locating the tabs precisely 2) wedging a flexible piece of plastic in there and simultaneously pushing the tabs back.

I decided to tie thread around each tab. Next time I want to take her off, I'll just pull the end of thread out of hiding and hopefully with a small tug release the darn tab!

Heck, even if it doesn't release at least ill know exact where the dam tab is :-).

John

 

Rev Sam's credit card (or hotel key, or half hotel key) works great. Takes seconds. Gently jam the hotel key (I prefer cut longways in half) very near the top right corner and tilt and slide down until it releases. Make sure you start essentially in the corner and work down, you'll release the tab as you go.

Once that first one is off, I use a pile of hotel keys to keep the top right corner up. Then repeat in the top left corner, move key pile to the center. Then repeat on the lower right, then the lower left.

Like the idea of a 'latch release', however. You'll have to let us know how it goes.

Note: one problem I have noticed is that some people have the "wood hold down brackets" screwed in the wrong way (swapped sides). Rev Sam has them installed the wrong way in his video. I did that the first time, but quickly realized that it made taking off the surround quite difficult.

 

Thank you Dale, believe me I saw it, I used the card. I always find it a slow frustrating process.


John

 

I'm a bit surprised there is not an expensive Jag tool for this that I could set in the bin to keep company with my long-sought but pointless Special Tool 303-623 for quick fit connectors (nickname "Something is going to break, and it's probably going to be the quick fit connector").

(Note added: I purchased the "Special Tool" long after I had no difficulty taking off the quick fit connectors without breaking them with a selection from the nearby hodgepodge of screwdrivers, or skewers, or anything else suitable. So, a solution to a problem already solved.)

 

Another long term solution, if your thread does not work, is to replace the surround with a metal one that screws on. I think Mina makes one. I bought mine used.

 

Dale, ROFL at the jaguar tool line: perfect!
Darbysan, thanks for the idea!

J

 

This is my hack since my left side tabs were broken off (right side intact). I cut the ratchet and pointed ends off of a black plastic cable tie and pushed it in the left side. It can be removed with a knife blade or such. It holds in place quite well. Yes. there is a crack at 6 o'clock that may or may not be due to this hack. The photo and the lighting shows much nastiness, but in reality, it is virtually undetectable.

 

Dr D great minds think a like. BTW I like your idea better (a lot better)
John

 

Or, you can just rely on a hamfisted previous owner to break all the tabs off and a split second later voilà!
The butcher who worked on my car in the past left no tab unbroken. 😒
Phil
_________
1998 XK8 Classic convertible Carnival Red

 

How does the cruise control button attach? Mine has fallen in so it doesn't sit at the top. The button still works but it is hard to press because it just goes further down into the void.

 

Rollins, there are / were plastic tabs that it attached to.

2 answers. Use 1st if the bottom of the switch has a flat plane unobstructed by the wire connector. Use 2nd otherwise.

(1)
Here's a trick I've used. Loctite clear (self mixing attachment included) sticks to the black plastic surround. It also sticks to black wire ties!

This epoxy is available at amazon about $4. Either Lowes or Hdepot carries it, not both. Its the self mixing attachment you must have IMO. Buy 10 inch long wire ties. Your life will be easier if the ties you buy have "teeth" on both sides of the tongue (9.25 inch male part).

Take 3 or 4 ties. Cut the head plus 3/4 inch off two. Save the remaining strip
Remove the switch.

Dab of epoxy on the flat space next to the switch. (Frankly it wouldn't hurt to scuff up the area for the dab). Lay one of the strip + female receptacle on the epoxy. It, this first one's orientation doesn't matter. BUT! don't glue down the head - you need access to insert a strip once it dries overnight. [Wrap the head in painter's tape, wax paper scotch tape]

Now plan the position of the other wire tie head. You need the accepting part to face the switch when bent up. The strip can only enter the head from 1 direction.

Dab of epoxy, protect the head, let dry over night.
Next day.take that cut off strip feed it through the 1st head you worked on (see this is why it's orientation didn't matter, you can insert from either side.)
Place switch in position.
Wire tie over switch into head #2, tighten wire tie to hold switch in place. Cut off useless protruding ends.
Need to work on switch? Cut wire tie & use a new one.

(2)
Go to Harbor Freight. Buy a $20 plastic welder
Use it to weld the old mounts to the switch. Add plastic cut to size to secure the switch.
Just be careful not to intrude on that part of the plastic switch that channels the press on press off movement inside the switch housing.

The plastic welder is pretty similar to a soldering iron. Its tip, a triangular flat surface, is heated to the point it melts plastic that it touches. It comes with spare plastic patch pieces, but old plastic laying around the house works too. Surprisingly simple to use.

I hope these ideas help. The wire tie worked better than new for my roof switch!
BTW I recommend you avoid "plastic epoxies" i haven't found one that works yet! (Thats how I got to my plastic welder BTW)

John