Brake Light Switch Again?
I occasionally get "check rear lights" and "Cruise not available" warning along with Amber light. No DTC's with Torque Pro scan and it disappears after I turn the ignition off and restart the car gain. My Deeper scan reveals DTC P1571, BLS. Due to my MS affecting legs, sometimes I leave the left foot on brake pedal slightly. Classic Brake light switch I guess? I prefer a switch with the Mouser M.S.'s over a New $$$$ Jaguar Part. I have the (2) correct Mouser switches to install into a defective housing. I would pay a reasonable fee + S&H for an old non working BLS someone has replaced and kept as scrap. Presently my BLS is working but just a matter of time till it fails. Prefer to wait on warmer weather. Anyone care to part with and old switch to be repaired? PM should you have an old switch to scrap. Will provide details.
Last edited by kstevusa; Jan 22, 2022 at 08:13 AM.
When I was having intermittent trouble with this fault warning, I took the switch assembly out, checked it with a meter and convinced myself that both microswitches were good and could not be the cause of the 'No Cruise Control-Check Rear Lights' message. Before re installing (With all the frustrations already detailed!!) I removed the tie wrap holding the wire to the bracket so in future the switch could be removed from the bracket by loosening the upper nut over the slot and removing the lower one. Just as well, because the fault was still there and out it had to come again. This time either I was more careful or maybe lucky, because it became apparent that there was a dry soldered joint on one switch pin that was intermittent. I solved it by de-soldering the pins to remove the offending switch and then re-soldering it back in - easy as that! With the switch fitted back to its in situ bracket - much easier than switch AND bracket - the problem had gone and has not re-appeared in the thousands of miles I've done since then, ten years ago.
When I started getting brake light switch issues I got down there to see how to remove it, in the process bent/aligned something slightly accidentally, and poof, no more problems!
This tweak has held for years. No idea what I actually did since I didn't plan it or even notice that it was fixed until the next day when I went out with tools to actually pop the bracket out.
So... maybe wiggle it a little? Easier than actually getting the bracket out and back in!
This tweak has held for years. No idea what I actually did since I didn't plan it or even notice that it was fixed until the next day when I went out with tools to actually pop the bracket out.
So... maybe wiggle it a little? Easier than actually getting the bracket out and back in!
Brake switch adjustment is in the fourteenth reply to this thread https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...t-gear-233677/
Question for ones who did this, would removing the left knee bolster aid n access to the BLS? I must have witnessed all related videos and read most of the threads regarding the methods of replacing and repairing this troublesome item. Will try PK's procedure next. Will update as results reveal what happens.
I always remove use two 8mm nuts that hold the body to the housing. As I recall, the top one just has to be backed off and the bottom one removed.
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During research an interesting bit of info surfaced. The "cup" holding the Damper is describes as the same piece as the ones holding the injectors. One would suspect an lower injector O-Ring would be correct to seal the leak. Seems the problem is holding the damper close and tight as the injector are clipped in and then bolted down to maintain a constant pressure. Any thoughts on this approach? How to secure the damper snugly?
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