I can see from under the car but can't reach it. Has anyone been able to remove it? If so, how? Seems like the steering u-joint has to be removed to gain access. I removed the wheel well liner in hopes of finding a pass-thru access but no such luck.
Appreciate any advice on how to reach the drain bolt.

 

Welcome - year and model would be helpful to the techs. I see this is your first post, when you have a minute, stop by the new member section and post an intro
New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum

 

On my 2001 it can be reached without jacking up the car, once you know where it is. However, raising the front end makes it much easier to reach.

You do not have to remove anything. In fact, it doesn't come out either. Just loosen it and it has a catch to keep it attached while it drains.

It is a quarter-sized plastic bolt with a large cutout X on the head. Lower right-hand side (US Passenger side) at the bottom of the radiator.

 

sklimii, thanks for the heads-up on the model/year. Hopefully I did it right this time and the info. will show on signature block.

 

thanks Jag#4 for the reply. I think you are refering to the radiator drain plug. the one I'm having an issue with is the engine block drain plug. Its about the size of a Silver dollar, and requires a large socket Allen shank.

 

You're correct. I didn't read the post very well. Oops.

 

Beautiful color on that Jag! I helped my neighbor buy his about 5 years ago. He kept it in his garage mostly unused until I asked him to sell it to me. Now its mine!

 

Karma

Did you know that there are at least two other nuclear engineers on this board?

 

Wow, thats good to know. I'm down here at Turkey Point Nuclear in Florida City. Do you know what plant they work at? I know a couple that have Jags. It might be them.

 

Welcome to the forum Nucengineer.

I'm fascinated to know WHY you want to remove it?

Usually the only reason is to replace it with the optional cylinder block heater but I don't expect there's much call or them in FL.

Graham

 

I got to it somehow I think when I flushed all the coolant. I'd have to get back under to figure that out again. Won't happen for a couple of weeks.

 

Hi Graham,
The answer is to perform the task thoroughly. On my XK8 currently, the coolant is a mixture of the orange and green coolant (previous owner - my neighbor) and coolant flush I put in to clean up the system. Leaving that stuff in the engine block by not draining it out and just topping off the radiator would kind of defeats the objective.

 

Steve, if you got to it, did you remove the steering column lower u-joint? I've been avoiding removing the u-joint. Mine has heavy rust. I put a wrench on the clamp screws to see if they'd turn but it seems the two clamp screws are frozen. I'll put some Kroil on them to hopefull loosen them. Seems thats the only way in to the plug.

 

Even with the radiator drained and the cylinder block drain removed, you will still be left with the original coolant in the heater matrix.

A couple of flushes with plain water in quick succession before filling up with fresh coolant could be more effective.

Graham

 

And a whole lot easier.

 

Hey Graham, I agree I now realized did overlooked that point, thanks. Perhaps since I'm also replacing the thermostat and it's plastic housing with an aluminum one; maybe doing the flush without the thermostat in place would make the purge easier by not having to wait for the thermal build up to activate the thermostat. Anyhow my apologies for taking this subject perhaps beyond reasonable scope, but again I appreciate your feedback!

 

The coolant drain plug on the left side is usually VERY TIGHT.
I use a 1/2" drive 17mm hex with a long extension and 'flex' joint.
I also have a 24" 'breaker-bar' for leverage.

The metal/rubber sealing ring might be damaged when it is removed so you might want to get a new one before you try to drain the coolant.

It is easier to stand under the car to get at the plug from a certain angle but I'm sure it has been done with just jack stands.

bob gauff

 

I've concidered removing the steering column lower U-joint which connects to the rack & pinion thus giving direct access to the drain plug . . but that didn't seem feasible as the bolts on the U-joint appear to be frozen and I don't want to snap off the heads.
Btw, thanks for pointing out the fact that the plug could get damaged on removal. I will be ordering one.

 

At about 4 mins into this video I start to remove the U joint, you can see the technique I used to get it off later in the video. The bolts were tight but did come lose with a bit of force and did not shear.


I think you would also have to drop the rack a bit to get it out.


Funny, I was thinking that I did not see a block drain plug, but of course yours is lhd.

 

Good video and detail. I was thinking that I may not be able to slide the U-joint on the column's spline to remove it from the bottom rack's spline. The effort you showed that was required to actually remove the U-joint may require as you indicated, dropping the rack. Screwing in the bolt from the opposite side and inserting a piece of scrap metal to push open the clamp was simple and effective. Nice job! I ordered a can of Kroil lubricant to help loosen the bolt on the U-joint. But I'll try Bob Gauff's method first and if I'm not successful, I'll follow your process. Will post progress. Thanks again!