I managed to get a set of NOS 305mm discs for £25 ($30) and some approved pads from Germany for £10 ( $12) Crazy prices but thats life... So hear we go

Remove wheel.
7 mm hex to remove the sliding pins holding the brake calliper.
Hang calliper on some wire out the way.
17mm Spanner and 4 lb block hammer for the holding bracket bolts .. TOTAL FAIL.
Rattle gun air operated on same bolts ...TOTAL FAIL
Heated the heads of bolts with small propane flame and applied rattle gun SUCCESS
Spray the centre of the hub with WD40 to soften the gunge on the spiggot.
Wack the disc from the inside with the block hammer and after a few dozen blows it will start to move and therefore take it off.
Clean the centre around the spigot area with emery cloth or you won't get the new one on.
Clean the rear of the disc with thinners etc to remove the anti-rust coating.
Fit the disc and push it fully home with a long 17mm socket over each wheel bolt and the block hammer.
Fit the calliper holding bracket.
Push the piston back with a G clamp.
Clean the outer face of the disc with thinners etc
Fit pads and calliper and retaining sliding bolts.
Fit the wheel
Do the other one ...about 1 hr for each side.

Old pads riding on the rust ridges..basic kit shown above

 

Well done....

 

EPLS This is very easy compared to changing the starter on a RHD

 

Good job. This is to add to your great description. Just another way:

Caliper bolts: at least on my 98 XK8, You can turn the wheel far enough so a line from the bolts to area outside the car is clear. Turn the wheel. Put your ratchet on the bolt and slip a 4 or 5 ft pipe over the handle for leverage.

John

 

Rattle gun rules ..see the photo..only paid £36 ($42) inc 10 hardened sockets from 10-19mm ..Brilliant tool.
Glad you appreciate my descriptions..sure they will help some of you

 

I have this project on my to do list and thanks for the write up. My car still has the original rotors and they are now getting to the point of just getting too thin. Not looking forward to the project as will likely do both front and rear at the same time. I am considering drill and slotted rotors mostly for appearance. I doubt they perform better than regular vented rotors. I wonder if anyone has any imput on going drilled and slotted?

 

The immediate benefit of drilled rotors is in the rain. The brake pads seem to bite more instantly, instead of that half second it takes to clear the water on a traditional full disk. One would assume slots would offer the same benefit. Some manufacturers also claim that slots help steer brake dust away from the wheels, most applicable in case you run a set of dusty metallic pads.

 

I went the drilled route on my X350. Looked nice but way too rough and noisy when braking for my taste. The added harmonics during braking was way too noticeable - and annoying. Reminded me of the noise I got when I attached a playing card to the forks of my bicycle as a kid. That whirring sound was the first thing I thought of when I first pressed the brakes on my test drive.

Most people do not know that Brembo makes replacement parts for the "non-Brembo" brakes on standard XK8s. I would highly recommend the Brembo rotors I used when I did the brakes on my XK8. Very high quality. The hubs and vanes are power coated and very durable at only about 15% higher cost. Got the Brembos from FCP I think. Rears info is here.

Whatever you choose pay close attention to the specs on the rotors and pads. Some rotors are same diameter but different thicknesses. Pads are also different thicknesses. I posted details about my findings here.