Considering purchasing this XK8 convertible
#1
Considering purchasing this XK8 convertible
Hello,
I have been a member of this site for about 3 years, and it has been very useful for maintaining my lovely 2004 BRG X-Type 2.5 manual.
However, since one of my best friends got a 2007 XK coupe, I've been itching for something a bit more fun, luxurious and more sporty.
I've had my eye on XK8 convertibles for about 6 months now, intermittently searching Craiglist and Auto Trader for possible buys - but I had never driven one, so I wasn't positive that I could appreciate an automatic after driving the manual X-Type these last few years. I *do* love to drive a stick - and if the XK8 with all it's poise, elegance and grace was available that way - there would be no question at all.
Yesterday night, I was browsing Autotrader for nearby convertible models, and I discovered this: 2001 Jaguar XK8 - Bernardsville NJ area Volkswagen dealer serving Bernardsville NJ ? New and Used Volkswagen dealership Serving Union Summit Bridgewater NJ
This is a very reputable dealer chain in my neck of the woods, and while my preference for a Jag is BRG with a tan interior - I figured that as long as I was just taking a test drive, it wouldn't matter what color it was.
One problem - I fell in love . There are no pictures on the dealer link given above - but the car is Pacific Blue, with a blue top and an Ivory (I think?) interior.
If you were to look at the ad, it has 58xxx miles, and has had (according to Carfax) 2 owners - the first one a lease - the same dealer has serviced it for all but two years of it's life, and a independent Jaguar service specialist has maintained it since. A number of in warranty parts replacements appear to have been done - including thermostat, cooling hoses, mass air flow, brakes, spark plugs, valve cover gaskets - plus a transmission warranty claim and all the regular maintenance for the first 20k+ miles.
I drove the car - it was quiet, tight and responsive. The engine was smooth and vigorous, the transmission shifted smoothly in auto mode and the gears when rowed in sport mode were responsive and held as close to redline as I wanted to dare.
The A/C was cold, the top worked perfectly without hesitation - all the proper window up/downs, header latch, etc..
It also has a working Navigation system - quite nice, if a little dated.
This is my very first drive in this car, and my thoughts of waiting for a BRG one have gone right out of my head.
I know that being a 2001 it probably/does have the Nikasil cylinder treatment - but at this age, this few miles, and a clean service history through the dealer for the first 20k of it - I don't know if I should obsess about it.
Oh - and the kicker - it's basically $7000
Feedback from the group mind and forum members would be highly appreciated and valued.
Thanks!
James
I have been a member of this site for about 3 years, and it has been very useful for maintaining my lovely 2004 BRG X-Type 2.5 manual.
However, since one of my best friends got a 2007 XK coupe, I've been itching for something a bit more fun, luxurious and more sporty.
I've had my eye on XK8 convertibles for about 6 months now, intermittently searching Craiglist and Auto Trader for possible buys - but I had never driven one, so I wasn't positive that I could appreciate an automatic after driving the manual X-Type these last few years. I *do* love to drive a stick - and if the XK8 with all it's poise, elegance and grace was available that way - there would be no question at all.
Yesterday night, I was browsing Autotrader for nearby convertible models, and I discovered this: 2001 Jaguar XK8 - Bernardsville NJ area Volkswagen dealer serving Bernardsville NJ ? New and Used Volkswagen dealership Serving Union Summit Bridgewater NJ
This is a very reputable dealer chain in my neck of the woods, and while my preference for a Jag is BRG with a tan interior - I figured that as long as I was just taking a test drive, it wouldn't matter what color it was.
One problem - I fell in love . There are no pictures on the dealer link given above - but the car is Pacific Blue, with a blue top and an Ivory (I think?) interior.
If you were to look at the ad, it has 58xxx miles, and has had (according to Carfax) 2 owners - the first one a lease - the same dealer has serviced it for all but two years of it's life, and a independent Jaguar service specialist has maintained it since. A number of in warranty parts replacements appear to have been done - including thermostat, cooling hoses, mass air flow, brakes, spark plugs, valve cover gaskets - plus a transmission warranty claim and all the regular maintenance for the first 20k+ miles.
I drove the car - it was quiet, tight and responsive. The engine was smooth and vigorous, the transmission shifted smoothly in auto mode and the gears when rowed in sport mode were responsive and held as close to redline as I wanted to dare.
The A/C was cold, the top worked perfectly without hesitation - all the proper window up/downs, header latch, etc..
It also has a working Navigation system - quite nice, if a little dated.
This is my very first drive in this car, and my thoughts of waiting for a BRG one have gone right out of my head.
I know that being a 2001 it probably/does have the Nikasil cylinder treatment - but at this age, this few miles, and a clean service history through the dealer for the first 20k of it - I don't know if I should obsess about it.
Oh - and the kicker - it's basically $7000
Feedback from the group mind and forum members would be highly appreciated and valued.
Thanks!
James
#2
James, took a look at the ad.its got all the good stuff, including premium sound and heated seats (you'll use them a lot up here in NJ).
I don't see acknowledgment of replaced timing chain tensioners, but my focus is 1998. May be moot with 2001s. I'm not sure. It's a $2500 job up here so check it out.
They claim to have cell phone hook up. Dont think anything stock existed in 2001.
Do they have Trac option or the default DSC. Shouldn't be a deal breaker anyway.
No red flags I can see. Good luck with the decision.
John
I don't see acknowledgment of replaced timing chain tensioners, but my focus is 1998. May be moot with 2001s. I'm not sure. It's a $2500 job up here so check it out.
They claim to have cell phone hook up. Dont think anything stock existed in 2001.
Do they have Trac option or the default DSC. Shouldn't be a deal breaker anyway.
No red flags I can see. Good luck with the decision.
John
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jimborino (06-24-2017)
#3
Read 'Link 1 & Link 2' at the top of this thread to see what to check for. Model year 2001 likely had 2nd generation tensioners (metal/plastic), which were somewhat of an improvement over first generation. But they should be upgraded to all metal if they haven't been already.
Not only does your link provide no photos, there is also no description. Cosmetic condition - exterior, interior? Mechanical condition? Does everything work? (highly unlikely). Does the dealership include a limited warranty?
Approach with caution. Have a Jag specialist check it out. As John pointed out, your $7,000 initial outlay could easily balloon to $10,000+
Not only does your link provide no photos, there is also no description. Cosmetic condition - exterior, interior? Mechanical condition? Does everything work? (highly unlikely). Does the dealership include a limited warranty?
Approach with caution. Have a Jag specialist check it out. As John pointed out, your $7,000 initial outlay could easily balloon to $10,000+
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jimborino (06-30-2017)
#5
If you grab the VIN, you can get the build/spec sheet here; FordEtis home page
Thanks for the link - I had just stumbled on it myself myself on jag-lovers.org.
unfortunately, it doesn't seem to recognize the vin given in the ad :-(
SAJDA42C51NA11291
#6
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Hi jimbo,
By 2001 you should be clear of a Nikasil engine, although one that's still running OK is likely to stay that way.
The changeover to 3rd gen tensioners was around mid-August 2001, so the car may still have the old plastic ones. Unless the dealer can provide documentation to prove they are metal, or have been replaced, you must work on the assumption that they haven't. Wouldn't be a deal breaker for me, but certainly a bargaining chip on the price.
As already suggested, do take someone along with you who knows what to look for if you can (although the stickies will guide you) and a tape measure to get the ride height.
I wonder if ETIS is sulking at the moment as it's no longer recognising my VIN either. Will the dealer provide you with the engine number?
Good luck!
Mike
By 2001 you should be clear of a Nikasil engine, although one that's still running OK is likely to stay that way.
The changeover to 3rd gen tensioners was around mid-August 2001, so the car may still have the old plastic ones. Unless the dealer can provide documentation to prove they are metal, or have been replaced, you must work on the assumption that they haven't. Wouldn't be a deal breaker for me, but certainly a bargaining chip on the price.
As already suggested, do take someone along with you who knows what to look for if you can (although the stickies will guide you) and a tape measure to get the ride height.
I wonder if ETIS is sulking at the moment as it's no longer recognising my VIN either. Will the dealer provide you with the engine number?
Good luck!
Mike
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jimborino (06-30-2017)
#7
Jimborino,
I know how fun that feeling is, I hope that you are enjoying it.
What I did was get the used car dealer to let me take it to a Jaguar dealer and I paid them $200-$300 to go through the car and tell me literally everything they could find wrong and estimate their repair cost. Then I added the costs for those together in my head (reduced a little for some thing Iwould at home) with the purchase price. I also checked with an independent Jag mechanic of the cost of the having them do the secondary tensioners because I didn't want to do them.
Also keep in mind that, reputable or not, no VW dealer is going to know an XK8 well enough to even recognize certain potential problems.
You will need to replace the upper tensioners if you don't have solid proof it's been done. Feel free to check the engine # (make Jag dealer find it) to verify your car, but I would be surprised if any 2001 had the most up to date tensioners. As far as I have read they changed over manufacturing in August of 2001 so between manufacturing and importing time delays it was part way into the model year 2002 XK8's that the latest generation tensioners begin to appear.
Depending on when and what the transmission service earlier was, you probably also want to change the transmission fluid again soonish too. Usually a drain and fill still leaves a good bit of old fluid in the transmission.
Have them also spitball how far away from suspension &/or wheel bearing work they think you are, as they all need some of that work periodically.
Check the age of the tires. the car hasn't been driven much so you might need to replace them for safety due to age rather than wear. Either way look into the cost to replace them eventually. Michelins seem to be the most popular choice.
Armed with all that info, set a good budget in your head and buy it. When I bought mine last fall, a 1997 for $9,500 (which I found a little bit high, but it was local and in remarkable condition with a completely flawless underside), with 88K miles, I had budgeted about an extra $3,000 for repairs/maintenance base on this type of info into my mental purchase price. In actual fact things came in a wee bit below that # so I was delighted (because I set my initial expectations realistically).
As long as the car runs/idles smoothly, Nikasil is probably a non-issue. I don't get the impression that many US cars had this problem. I had 3 separate Jag mechanics tell me that it was enough of a non issue that (rightly or wrongly) I didn't even bother compression testing mine.
If it is what it sounds like and the body is all in great shape with no hidden corrosion, I think $7k is a great price, almost suspiciously low for a dealer ask.
So I'd say do your homework then buy a beautiful car for $9-$10k-ish ($7k to the dealer and $2-3k for deferred maintenance).
I know how fun that feeling is, I hope that you are enjoying it.
What I did was get the used car dealer to let me take it to a Jaguar dealer and I paid them $200-$300 to go through the car and tell me literally everything they could find wrong and estimate their repair cost. Then I added the costs for those together in my head (reduced a little for some thing Iwould at home) with the purchase price. I also checked with an independent Jag mechanic of the cost of the having them do the secondary tensioners because I didn't want to do them.
Also keep in mind that, reputable or not, no VW dealer is going to know an XK8 well enough to even recognize certain potential problems.
You will need to replace the upper tensioners if you don't have solid proof it's been done. Feel free to check the engine # (make Jag dealer find it) to verify your car, but I would be surprised if any 2001 had the most up to date tensioners. As far as I have read they changed over manufacturing in August of 2001 so between manufacturing and importing time delays it was part way into the model year 2002 XK8's that the latest generation tensioners begin to appear.
Depending on when and what the transmission service earlier was, you probably also want to change the transmission fluid again soonish too. Usually a drain and fill still leaves a good bit of old fluid in the transmission.
Have them also spitball how far away from suspension &/or wheel bearing work they think you are, as they all need some of that work periodically.
Check the age of the tires. the car hasn't been driven much so you might need to replace them for safety due to age rather than wear. Either way look into the cost to replace them eventually. Michelins seem to be the most popular choice.
Armed with all that info, set a good budget in your head and buy it. When I bought mine last fall, a 1997 for $9,500 (which I found a little bit high, but it was local and in remarkable condition with a completely flawless underside), with 88K miles, I had budgeted about an extra $3,000 for repairs/maintenance base on this type of info into my mental purchase price. In actual fact things came in a wee bit below that # so I was delighted (because I set my initial expectations realistically).
As long as the car runs/idles smoothly, Nikasil is probably a non-issue. I don't get the impression that many US cars had this problem. I had 3 separate Jag mechanics tell me that it was enough of a non issue that (rightly or wrongly) I didn't even bother compression testing mine.
If it is what it sounds like and the body is all in great shape with no hidden corrosion, I think $7k is a great price, almost suspiciously low for a dealer ask.
So I'd say do your homework then buy a beautiful car for $9-$10k-ish ($7k to the dealer and $2-3k for deferred maintenance).
Last edited by Red; 06-25-2017 at 10:47 AM.
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#8
A big thanks to all who have answered. I will reply to your questions when I am next on a computer - instead if my cell.
A couple if things I can pass on:
I am having a very good local shop do a pre-inspection for me before I buy. The are not Jaguar specialists, but work on a lot of high end cars here in this wealthy town I live in. They have worked on my BMW M3, my ZX Twin turbo, and my son's Boxster S - not exactly exotics but not mainstream either.
The local Jag dealer is not all that local, so that's not really an option.
The selling dealer for this car apparently got this as a trade-in and wants to just move it out so that they don't have to send it to auction, and most likely paid almost nothing for it - at least that's my current, unconfirmed theory.
More updates to follow.
Oh - and the interior appears to be ivory - at least visually - once the Etis decoder starts working again I hope to know more.
Thanks!
A couple if things I can pass on:
I am having a very good local shop do a pre-inspection for me before I buy. The are not Jaguar specialists, but work on a lot of high end cars here in this wealthy town I live in. They have worked on my BMW M3, my ZX Twin turbo, and my son's Boxster S - not exactly exotics but not mainstream either.
The local Jag dealer is not all that local, so that's not really an option.
The selling dealer for this car apparently got this as a trade-in and wants to just move it out so that they don't have to send it to auction, and most likely paid almost nothing for it - at least that's my current, unconfirmed theory.
More updates to follow.
Oh - and the interior appears to be ivory - at least visually - once the Etis decoder starts working again I hope to know more.
Thanks!
#9
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jimborino (06-30-2017)
#10
As an owner of a 2001MY (Pacific Blue/Ivory with Navy convertible top), I can tell you it almost certainly has the plastic tensioners, not the metal versions. Build date is August on mine, but unsure of the engine build date. The engine date is what matters here.
Mine has 149k+ miles on it, so they can go the distance if maintained. Just keep in mind it is still a 16-year old car regardless of the miles. Set aside some money for replacing the rubber and plastic bits as any not changed will have aged out.
My blue cat has been a joy for almost 6 years, so I highly recommend them. Good luck with the search.
p.s. do check the forums classifieds. A few for sale there, including mine. Might be one near you owned by someone who is going to know more about the car than a dealer.
Mine has 149k+ miles on it, so they can go the distance if maintained. Just keep in mind it is still a 16-year old car regardless of the miles. Set aside some money for replacing the rubber and plastic bits as any not changed will have aged out.
My blue cat has been a joy for almost 6 years, so I highly recommend them. Good luck with the search.
p.s. do check the forums classifieds. A few for sale there, including mine. Might be one near you owned by someone who is going to know more about the car than a dealer.
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jimborino (06-30-2017)
#11
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jimborino (06-30-2017)
#13
#14
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The actual colour this applies to is, of course, green.
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Junkyardjohn (01-26-2019)
#15
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BTW, Etis seems to be completely broken at the moment:
"Welcome to JBoss EAP 7"
#17
BRG Works great for me too, definitely get secondary tensioners checked to be sure they're not plastic I didn't and almost blew up engine 2500 for a complete rebuild of all chains and tensioners, would be a lot less if you only had to do the uppers. Also run the top up and down a few times and check for hydrolic fluid leaks in that mesh item over the rear view mirror.
Good luck
Jeremy
Good luck
Jeremy
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jimborino (06-30-2017)
#18
Thanks! I was thinking of the New Vernon Coachworks just up the road from me - forgot all about the Stable.
Based on scheduling, it looks like Prestige Auto right in town is going to give it a good look over for me - they are at least familiar with this particular model.
Fingers crossed - you seldom get to do exactly what you would like when you like it.
#19
Latest update:
Yesterday the car went for it's Pre-check inspection. Verdict was that mechanically it was very good, no observed problems other than dirty brake fluid that should be flushed, and a slightly cracked power steering cap. Brakes, tires about 80 percent useful life remaining, oil color, smell, level good. No fluid leaks detected, coolant levels good.
A faint "odor" in the cabin was observed - but when I questioned the shop about it the didn't think it smelled like mold or oil/hydraulic fluid. I didn't smell it myself, but my nose is not very sensitive. So all good on that score. No rust evident below or on panels.
Tonight - just got back from my wife seeing and test driving the car. Weirdest thing happened *after* the car was parked on its return. I opened the bonnet to show her the engine ... and saw a little wisp of steam. Looked closer and touched the upper coolant hoses ... and it disconnected from the motor! About a pint of fluid lost - no sign of it from the driveway to the parking spot. Clamp on the hose (which was fairly new) was loose enough that I could push the hose right back into place!. They will check and fix tomorrow morning and double check the rest.
Thoughts?
Yesterday the car went for it's Pre-check inspection. Verdict was that mechanically it was very good, no observed problems other than dirty brake fluid that should be flushed, and a slightly cracked power steering cap. Brakes, tires about 80 percent useful life remaining, oil color, smell, level good. No fluid leaks detected, coolant levels good.
A faint "odor" in the cabin was observed - but when I questioned the shop about it the didn't think it smelled like mold or oil/hydraulic fluid. I didn't smell it myself, but my nose is not very sensitive. So all good on that score. No rust evident below or on panels.
Tonight - just got back from my wife seeing and test driving the car. Weirdest thing happened *after* the car was parked on its return. I opened the bonnet to show her the engine ... and saw a little wisp of steam. Looked closer and touched the upper coolant hoses ... and it disconnected from the motor! About a pint of fluid lost - no sign of it from the driveway to the parking spot. Clamp on the hose (which was fairly new) was loose enough that I could push the hose right back into place!. They will check and fix tomorrow morning and double check the rest.
Thoughts?
Last edited by jimborino; 06-28-2017 at 07:57 PM. Reason: Additional Info
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Red (06-28-2017)
#20
Did it have just a regular worm type hose clamps? Jaguar uses a constant pressure type clamp and they may have been replaced with crappy ones.
I replaced all the worm clamps with Constant Torque Clamps soon after purchase. (Along with all the hoses) mine held coolant like a colander. The coolant probably ended up in the tunnel under the intake, in which case you will be smelling it for a while.
If that's the extent of the problems, pull the trigger cowboy!
I replaced all the worm clamps with Constant Torque Clamps soon after purchase. (Along with all the hoses) mine held coolant like a colander. The coolant probably ended up in the tunnel under the intake, in which case you will be smelling it for a while.
If that's the extent of the problems, pull the trigger cowboy!