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In 2018, by the previous owner, the gearbox of my XKR was serviced by official Jaguar dealer due to a leaking oil pan. The oil and the filter were replaced. In the details of the invoice the part number of the oil they used is C2S12120, I found an image online, the label shows "for Jaguar X type gearboxes only" Now I am a little worried, the gearbox works perfectly, very smooth. Is this the correct oil for this gearbox?
Er... No. Did a dealership really do this? It's supposed to be a compatible fluid for the ZF 5HP24 box, which is definitely not what your car is fitted with.
I found a chart online which compares the C2S12120 the same as Fuchs Titan ATF4400. The recommended oil for 722.6 transmission is Fuchs Titan ATF4134. Could the 4400 be a modern superior quality oil, that exceeded the older specs? Or maybe completely different? I'm not an expert about automatic transmission, this is my first car with it (in Italy most of the cars are manual). Since the transmission works just perfect, is there the risk to damage something, running the wrong oil?
The 4400 is for Japanese gearboxes, the 4134 the MB unit in our cars. What the actual difference is is anyone's guess. You could always call Fuchs and ask?
Realistically though it's not that hard to do an oil and filter change on the MB gearbox, so perhaps you should look at doing that.
Yes, official Jaguar dealer... . Maybe is it compatible anyway?
Not compatible. They were just lazy and put in any old oil they had on hand.
if I were in your shoes I would never go back to that dealership. And definitely put in the correct oil. Your transmission will work longer, and better. The list of correct oils posted above are not hard to locate. The Shell 134 is reasonably priced on Amazon.
Thanks for the reply, it's sure I will never go back to that dealership, the car was brought there by the previous owner. I prefer, where I can, to service my cars by myself, to be sure everything is done properly. I see workshops everyday for job, and these mistakes are very common, out of incompetence or to increase profit! Now I need advice on how to replace oil and filter, I have never worked on automatic transmissions, maybe there is already a thread about this, I will search It in the forum.
Thanks for the reply, it's sure I will never go back to that dealership, the car was brought there by the previous owner. I prefer, where I can, to service my cars by myself, to be sure everything is done properly. I see workshops everyday for job, and these mistakes are very common, out of incompetence or to increase profit! Now I need advice on how to replace oil and filter, I have never worked on automatic transmissions, maybe there is already a thread about this, I will search It in the forum.
It's very easy to service. You need to buy the dipstick, as unlike the ZF gearboxes on the other versions of this car, the Mercedes gearbox has a dipstick tube as standard. I would also get a spare set of oil pan bolts, as the originals tend to strip the heads as you take them out, plus a copper washer for the drain plug. While you have the oil drained, change the connector sleeve on the harness plug as these eventually leak.
The whole thing can be done on jack stands in your driveway.
Mercedes sell the original fluid at very reasonable prices here in the UK so check first with a dealer or online before you go off trying to work out the correct alternative.
It's an easy job - I can say that after doing the oil and filter change on the Merc box in my Super V8 immediately after doing the same on the ZF box in my XK8! Nightmare job on the ZF!
Next step this weekend is find out if my transmission is provided with torque converter drain plug, to determine the amount of oil needed for the change. I think I will choose Shell 134 or Fuchs 4134. This is the invoice of the official Jaguar dealer that put 7 litres of the wrong oil in: They charge the fuel filter too, I replaced it some days ago and I bet it was still the original factory one, surely not a 2018 and 2000km one!
Even if you haven't got a drain plug on your torque converter, you probably still need the same amount of oil, so you can do two oil changes a few weeks apart, to get as much of the old oil out.
Febi Bilstein is a good brand - I used one of their connector sleeves when I replaced mine. It's also worth going into a Mercedes dealer and see how much the official parts are - you might be surprised.
Even if you haven't got a drain plug on your torque converter, you probably still need the same amount of oil, so you can do two oil changes a few weeks apart, to get as much of the old oil out.
So I need a large amount of new oil.. It's expensive!
For the second change there's no need to remove the sump, right? I drain the oil removing the sump plug and replace the same amount.
So I need a large amount of new oil.. It's expensive!
For the second change there's no need to remove the sump, right? I drain the oil removing the sump plug and replace the same amount.
Titan 4134 doesn't seem that expensive to me - you'll drain about 4L from the oil pan each time - anyway, unless you are going to do a huge mileage I don't suppose you'll ever need to change the oil again.
So I need a large amount of new oil.. It's expensive!
For the second change there's no need to remove the sump, right? I drain the oil removing the sump plug and replace the same amount.
If the first lot of oil looks to be in good condition, I don't usually do a second drain but just stick to 60k mile servicing from then on.
However, it can only do good to do a second change after a few weeks but I don't remove the sump as I don't change the filter again. It's certainly worth measuring the amount of oil you drain out but you won't be able to refill with the same amount without going through the usual re-fill procedure with the engine running so you might as well follow the standard refill procedure and confirm that you added roughly the same amount as you removed.
It’s fairly important to use the dipstick and really work at getting it all the way down. I’ll go measure mine later and post the length of it that actually goes down the tube.
The dipstick will have marks for 20 Centigrade and 80 Centigrade. It’s going to be hard to get the transmission temp up to the 80 C mark without a hard workout. So measure the level as soon as the engine is started . 20 C will come up rapidly.
the transmission temp can be read by a good OBD-II device. Even if the meter is set to transmission temp what you see will actually be engine temp when the car is in Park or Neutral. Shift into Reverse or Drive (with foot on brake) and wait a few seconds, then the REAL transmission temp will be displayed. There is a service bulletin covering this, I’ll try to find my copy and post it
you will get between 3 and 3.5 liters out of the drain. I drain mine 3 times at 500 mile intervals and call it a day. Each time you drain the transmission pan the percentage of fresh ATF goes up.
Correct oil for Mercedes XKR gearbox
. Maybe is it compatible anyway? 
