Hi, being cash poor, and style wealthy I purchased a 97 XK8 convertible w/78K miles in not running condition. As I learned a bit about the year and model I wondered how much I had bitten off. The seller stated he thought it had jumped time. When I went through the records I see he had the chains,tensioners and guides done 2 years ago. I tried a little starting fluid down the throttle body and got a couple back fires. Then got code for crank sensor. Pulled valve covers and flywheel plug and see timing is intact. It has fuel pressure. Compression test was acceptable too. Would you replace the crank sensor next? Anyone with a little wisdom to share is appreciated.

 

Get yourself a code reader, not too many $ off of eBay, it will prove invaluable

 

Welcome to the wonderful world of Jaguar . . . and to the forum.

Couple thoughts; Won't start brings cylinder wash to mind with an early car. Search that.

Crank position sensors don't normally fail but may cause problems with electrical connections.

I would reset the code and see what might come up next.

Using a starter fluid in a car with a plastic intake manifold is a very dangerous and potential expensive effort. A number of broken manifolds have been reported.

Hineyville?

 

+1

Bore wash is a good prospect, does the engine sound like it is spinning quite fast on turn over? I would of expected poor compression should be around the 150 mark

I just re-read your post, should I assume you already have a code reader and if so were there any others? If not, disconnect the MAF and have another go

 

test point, your right, I put the starting fluid down the throttle body to avoid the MAF sensor but never thought about the plastic intake. XK bore wash is a likelihood. Do you guys know anything of sleeving a nikasil block? black dog manufacturing claims they do this but Houston in unhandy for a Florida boy.

 

A used engine is probably a less expensive solution but lets get this one started first. A good Nikasil engine is preferable to a steel sleeved one.

Got any codes other than crank sensor? Does it reset? and return?

You said you had checked valve timing. Does that mean that the cam flats were parallel on both sides.

You said in your first post that compression was good. What were the numbers?

Did you measure the fuel pressure or just look for a squirt from the Schrader valve?

Do you know if you are getting spark to the plugs? The 'couple backfires' says maybe.

What is the battery voltage when under starter load? The starter will rotate the engine at a voltage lower than the electronics will operate.

Have you removed/reseated the relays in the right engine enclosure?

And that intake manifold is incredibly expensive.

 

Yes, I found an engine that fits with 33K for $3000 but my face would be red if I couldnt get that one going either. Timing yes I visually confirmed 2 pair of parallel lobes and a flywheel triangle. a wet test gave me 137 to 205 compression 2 high 2 low and 4 middle, the engine is cold too. In any case it should be enough to start. I got her reassembled but havent found how to unplug the crank Pos sensor. I got 35 lbs off the fuel shrader while cranking.Spark seems hard to test,a couple backfires is all I got at the moment. Battery is under 2 years old and seems flawless.I read of someone having success interchanging like relays. Appointments and chilly weather are slowing my progress.

 

Careful on the engine swap. You have an AJ26 engine in the '97 car. Most low mileage engines are going to be AJ27's. Conversion is possible but difficult. Involves lots of things like swapping the flex plate and intake cams plus wiring harness changes.

All the square brown relays are the same. ECM, ignition and fuel pump relays would be the first to swap.

Chilly? In Florida?

 

My understanding is that very few engines will fit. Only the 97model w/o EGR. Then some outfits break it down to 1 or 2 oil sending units or electronics in the valve cover or timing case. Seems Jag had an uncertain start on this model and made a few modifications before 1998. This motor I found is only 1300 behind me in vin #. But I'll focus on this one for the moment. I'd seen 1.35 ohms was the appropriate reading for the crankshaft position sensor. My reading was 1.82. I dont know what it means but ordered a fresh sensor and rotated the brown relays. There is 1 (relay) missing in each the left front and trunk fuse boxes. Should there be?

 

Here is the relay layout.

 

What is the reasoning behind this? I would think the only advantag of the coated enine is being cheaper to machine and manufacture.

 

Welcome to the forum auburn2. When you have time please visit new member area and introduce yourself:

New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum

The nikasil process is not a cost reduction, it's a low friction, hard coating. It either is or was used by Ferrari and Porsche, possibly others.

 

It is actually a much more expensive process, and will out live steel liners easy, I would rather have my engine re-nikasilled than have steel liners fitted

 

^+

 

I set about replacing the crank position sensor. 1 bolt and a plug in on the other end. Child's play I pondered. So it plugs in to a harness fixed behind the power steering pump over the A/C and under the manifold. Cant get there from underneath. My bloody arms tell me you cant get there from the top. I gave up after dark but had the old sensor out. In three pieces but out. Fear caused me to take a day away from it. But today
i reassembled it and tried the key. Woo Hoo! we're driving a Jaguar instead of repairing one. Life just made a big improvement. Thanks everyone for your helpful advice. The car runs beautifully. It's Miller time.

 

Congratulations!

I have been following this thread and glad you have a happy conclusion. Now go enjoy.

 

Any chance you could give me some tips on just how you got the crank position sensor out please, and where is it physically on the car?
I know you state it plugs into a harness fixed behind the power steering pump over the A/C and under the manifold, but how did you get to it and what tools did you need to use. I am getting P0335 codes which indicate the sensor. I really just want to check it and make sure I have not disturbed the wiring or damaged it in some way.
Many thanks,
Arty

 

Please ignore above post re crank position sensor, my problem has been resolved.