I replaced the original fuel filter on my 2005 XK8 today. It appears that the fuel filter on the car was the original one, with 74,672 miles. The filter uses the quick connect fittings, and not the threaded fittings like earlier XK8s have. Here's photos of the original fuel filter. Note the date on the filter label (9/02/04).



In lieu of a ridiculously priced factory filter ($80.00+), I checked with my local Carquest store guys, and they fixed me up with a compatible fuel filter for just under $16.00. The Carquest part number for the fuel filter is: 86078. The filter is made by WIX, and it's made in Poland, just like the new factory fuel filters. The filter was a perfect fit, and snapped right into the quick connect fittings.



I picked up a 5/16" fuel connector quick release tool from Advanced Auto Parts to ensure a quick and relatively painless removal of the old factory fuel filter. Location of the fuel filter aside, the whole job took less than an hour to complete. The car had been sitting idle for 4-5 days, so there wasn't any pressure in the lines to cause a shower of gasoline when I separated the connectors from the filter.

The crud that came out of the old fuel filter made me wonder how any fuel was able to flow at all. Lots of fine, black granules came out of the in-flow end with the gasoline remaining in the filter. I cut the old fuel filter open and the paper pleats inside were black, and there was a lot more black particulate matter at the out-flow end of the filter. I imagine my fuel pump will be breathing a sigh of relief now, not having to fight to push fuel through an obviously constrained filter anymore.

Pix of the paper pleats please.

Following up on the 2013 thread, and the mention of a 5/16" separator tool, I noticed on some You Tube videos that there is minimal room to use scissor-like tools. Does anyone have a description of the best tool to use? There is a hinged type (but not scissors) and there are plastic semi-disk types that would operate with minimal room. One video showed an installation (Mazda, I think) which evidently uses a Ford type filter, and where the fitting and retainer clip was hard up against the end of the filter. Just want to know what I am getting into. I got the 'better if the wheel is off" suggestion; what else is going to bite me?
Thanks

I replaced the one on my 2004 XK8 with common hand tools. No special tool was needed and it was really simple.

The need for a special tool may be overkill in this situation.

Wheel off for sure. My DIY experience is covered here.

Perhaps I am overthinking what I think I saw! It took a while before I discovered where the filter was placed, and then made note of how inaccessible it is, and then that there are connector devices to be released. The tools that I saw on YouTube seem to require conforming to the pipe diameter and then being pushed 'into' the coupling while the owner pushes the opposite way to release the clamp.
Exactly how do you release this with common hand tools?

No tools necessary. There is a white tab that needs to be pressed in to disengage the hose. You might have to spray this with a solvent/cleaner to better see the tab and make sure it pushes in.

FWIW, some chain part stores have this part indexed incorrectly for our 4.2 l cars. Ours are definitely this quick-connect type, not the old hose and clamp. You might have to select the S-Type 4.2 to get what you need. The filter is not that hard to reach. There is a band clamp securing it to the car that needs to be undone, then the filter is only attached to the hose fittings. Be ready for some spill, but nothing remarkable.

Thanks Imertz! I did figure out the filter style issue after the original (obligatory) incorrect purchase. It seems as though learning about the disconnect style filter is a right of passage for post-2003 owners, so I now consider myself to have come of age!

If you take the time to clean both hose ends on the fuel filter, you will clearly see each bright white plastic release tab that must be pressed in order to pull the hose ends off the filter. Until I cleaned the hose ends the release tabs were invisible because they were fully covered with nearly a decade of road grime.....

Thanks to all who responded. Much appreciated!

Ok, you guys just keep helping with advise (I went to the link Rothwell gave us and got a part number) and I'll keep taking notes.
This is the most helpful forum I have ever used. You guys rock!

Observation on my part: Most people who own a car like this at it's current age are true enthusiasts. Most would have not bought one new at those prices and have an appreciation for the classic it is. So a lot of hands on is happening and shared as a result. Thanks, TM

OK, I did this change today.
The good:
Jack the car way up in the back to give some room.
Access the filter bracket tightener nut thru the rear spring with a super long skinny extension.
Old filter released about quarter cup of grey liquid, nothing like gasoline except the smell.
Used Wix filter, fit perfectly. $10 at rockauto.

The bad:
I broke the lower end connector. Tried prying it out rather than pressing it, misunderstood how it worked.

The connector has popped back on, and holds. But it is a little looser than the top end. And I worry it may leak. So I want to replace it.


Any advice on how to replace the fuel connector?? I've no idea where to start besides google.

Just a follow up to my question above. You can replace the connectors, but it seems unfun using a heat gun near fuel lines. So I am going to have the shop doing my shock mounts do this as well when it is there. Meanwhile I ziptied it on nice and tight and it seems happy enough for now.