And, how much spills when the lines are disconnected?
Thanks.

 

A few ounces of fuel will spill from the lines when they are disconnected from the tank bottom.

The tank can be pulled back into the boot area FULL if you have some wood boards to slide it along.

The EVAP flange is then removed and the fuel can be siphoned/pumped into another container.

I have a small electric fuel pump with a long hose and wires to 'drop' into the tank for this purpose.

The wires are LONG to prevent sparks near the open tank.

This past week I replace both fuel pumps (DEAD) on an XJR that had 3/4 tank. I used this setup as I always do.

bob gauff

 

Motorcarman - what brand of fuel pumps did you use? Any tips on the replacement that you could pass along. I am replacing mine this weekend (#2 is dead)
thanks,
Ed

 

I have used DENSO pump kits.
RockAuto has them and you can find them on eBay.

bob gauff

 

What is going on with DEAD fuel pumps lately?????????????????

I have ANOTHER in the shop for a fuel pump replace (2001 XJ8).
The connector plug is melted at the pump so I need a pump and the link harness in the DENSO pump kit will be cut/spliced instead of using the adapter harness.

The short link harness in the kit is usually just inserted between the factory link and the pump but the factory harness connector is TOAST.

This is the 3rd XJ/XK pump in a month!!!!!!!!!!

bob gauff

 

Solar flares.
The great conjunction.
Cost cutting.
Suppliers laughing all the way to the bank.
Cheer up, it's job security!

 

Mike, You will be reaching inside the tank to remove the fuel pump and its mouning rubber, so the less fuel the better. And, it lightens the tank for easier removal! I find that you need to pay attention to the mat under the tank when repositioning it back into place. The mat may try to move, blocking the oval shaped hole in the floor of the trunk, making it a pain to reconnect the fuel lines underneath. If you "lift" the tank as you place it back in, you should have no trouble. Be careful of the wire harness bundle near the right side of the tank as you pull the tank back to service the pump. The sharp edge of the tank can cut into these pretty easily. And, remember......disconnect the battery FIRST!

 

I usually lift the tank with a long prybar and spray liquid silicone under the tank for removal.

A generous spray before reinstall and the tank should glide into place.

bob gauff

 

See my fueL filter and fuel return valve post, the filter is the cause OF BURNING UP PUMPS AND BLOWING THE RETURN VALVE INSIDE you cant get most off without a torch, because jag loaded a ton of thread locker and when you undo, the rear inlet pipe cross threads, while undoing it. Its a scary operation, but if you focus your torch on the nut fitting that stuck only, you'll be fine,been there hundreds of times.

I hate getting to those lines underneath the car, I'm having performance exhaust work done, and will make sure the tech addresses this concern, to get that darn pipe out the way.

I was sticking my arm and tool up there, and bunch of brown spiders started getting on my arm and face, so be careful,the dust dirt, also got all over me.

SUCKS!!!!!!!!!!THE WHOLE JOB SUCKS!!!!

 

Good point on replacing filters in a timely manner. Probably my pump went down more to 15 yrs sitting in a tough environment with ? materials not up to the task. My fuel filter is changed every other year and it's easy after the first time. A $15 Purolator works fine. Periodic fuel pressure testing (or an installed full time gauge) would alert us to a filter plugging up or pump wearing out; I didn't think much about it until the pump failed.