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Gauges going wild! – Fuel, Temp, Battery, Oil Pressure. Jag 2000 XKR Convertible

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  #1  
Old 08-25-2013, 05:45 PM
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Default Gauges going wild! – Fuel, Temp, Battery, Oil Pressure. Jag 2000 XKR Convertible

Gauges going wild! – Fuel, Temp, Battery, Oil Pressure. Jag 2000 XKR Convertible

The problem began after I jump started the Jag from my other car. I used normal jumper cables from one battery to the other. I have done this a few times as the Jag is my Sunday car.
After the car started I noticed that the needles in the gauges started to float around, moving from low to high rapidly. The gauges in the Minor Instrument panel - Oil Pressure points past the right most mark and stays there, moving back a little; the battery wanders around the number 13. On the Major Instrument pack the Gas and the Temperature gauges move like windshield wipers – back and forth; they never stay in the same place.

I have replaced the battery and did a hard reset a few times to no avail.

Thank in advance for your suggestions!
 
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Old 08-25-2013, 06:41 PM
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Check fuses 14 (correction) and 18 in the fusebox on the driver's side of the dash.

If this is not it, and the battery is definitely good, and you defintiely tried the hard resets then your instrument cluster is likely fried.
 

Last edited by WhiteXKR; 08-25-2013 at 07:38 PM. Reason: Originally wrote 13 and 18, 14 and 18 is correct
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  #3  
Old 08-25-2013, 09:19 PM
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You might want to read TSB/Service Action 413-S484.

We replaced DOZENS of backing plates when the SA was issued.

Now I just fold the solder and grind out the back plate so it won't crush the circuit board.(then write an M with a 'sharpie')

I just had a 2000MY XJR in my shop a few weeks ago for a failed INST PK and had to replace it with a good used part. The solder was 'smeared' but removal did NOT fix the problem. (too late, the INST PK was FAULTY)

bob gauff
 
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Old 08-25-2013, 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by motorcarman
You might want to read TSB/Service Action 413-S484.

We replaced DOZENS of backing plates when the SA was issued.

Now I just fold the solder and grind out the back plate so it won't crush the circuit board.(then write an M with a 'sharpie')

I just had a 2000MY XJR in my shop a few weeks ago for a failed INST PK and had to replace it with a good used part. The solder was 'smeared' but removal did NOT fix the problem. (too late, the INST PK was FAULTY)

bob gauff
I have attached the document. It could be this, but since it happened right after a boost, I though it was less likely.
 
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Old 08-26-2013, 12:54 PM
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I have checked every fuse in the car. To do so I disconnected the ground from the battery and used my ohms meter leads - across - every fuse, but found none burned.

My car has fuse boxes:
Under the hood on the front left
Left of the driver side
Right of the passenger side
In the trunk behind the battery

Then I did three Hard Reset for 20 seconds on each of the ignition key positions (I, II and III).

Sorry to report but there was no change in the failure.

Thanks for your help, but keep thinking..
 
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Old 08-26-2013, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by OGDuarte
I have checked every fuse in the car. To do so I disconnected the ground from the battery and used my ohms meter leads - across - every fuse, but found none burned.

My car has fuse boxes:
Under the hood on the front left
Left of the driver side
Right of the passenger side
In the trunk behind the battery

Then I did three Hard Reset for 20 seconds on each of the ignition key positions (I, II and III).

Sorry to report but there was no change in the failure.

Thanks for your help, but keep thinking..
I am fairly certain your instrument cluster suffered electronic damage, probably from electrical spikes from the jump starting. The gauges are computer controlled stepper motors and they are behaving as if the computer inside the instrument cluster is not initializing them properly.

Jump starting a completely dead battery in these cars is not advisable. It is best to disconnect the battery from the vehicle and have the other car or a charger charge your battery for a few minutes.

Used instrument clusters are available on ebay for $100(+/-). I am pretty sure a cluster from a 2000-2002 XKR or XJR will be interchangeable, but you will lose the odometer reading. Alternatively, there ae companies that might be able to repair your cluster (seach instrument cluster repair on Google).
 

Last edited by WhiteXKR; 08-26-2013 at 01:30 PM.
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Old 08-26-2013, 01:27 PM
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One other thing to double check is that the power cable that feeds the driver side dashboard fusebox has not loosened up, but if it did, I suspect you would see even more erratic symptoms.
 
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Old 08-26-2013, 01:47 PM
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One last point...the 3-gauge cluster is run by the main instrument cluster...so the problem is only with the main instrument cluster.
 
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Old 08-27-2013, 07:17 AM
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Today I am removing the Major Instrument Pack and I am going to send it to be repaired. I will report back soon. Thank to all of you!
 
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Old 09-04-2013, 03:35 PM
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Today I received bad news about my instrument cluster from BBA-Reman who said that the CPU it's fried and they dont have the parts to fix it.

Here are a couple of questions:
1 - Does any one know of another place(s) where the cluster can be repaired?
2 - Can I use a used Cluster from EBAY and have it reprogramed?

Thank you for your help...
 
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Old 09-04-2013, 03:55 PM
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The simplest, cheapest solution is to find a used cluster from a wrecked 2000-2002 XKR or 2000-2003 XJR with mileage that is reasonably close to yours. It should plug in with no programming.

Note that an 2000-2002 XK8 or 2000-2003 XJ8 unit will not work without reprogramming.

Earlier years will not fit.

Later years may not be compatible.
 

Last edited by WhiteXKR; 09-04-2013 at 04:06 PM.
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Old 10-21-2013, 11:46 AM
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I sent the cluster to Automotive Scientific Inc over a month ago and I just got it back last week (10/18/2013). I installed and the failure remains the same. Two things could be: ASI did not fix it or the failure is else where.

I am going to buy a used one as per your last suggestion.

What do you think?
 
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Old 10-22-2013, 06:27 PM
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have your battery and alternator tested at autozone free.

A bad diode in the alternator will do this, so will a bad cell in a new or used battery.

Also, check clean mega fuses in the trunk for partially blow and clean, thats where the battery is, and a good ground at the passenger side front exhaust, transmission strap.
 

Last edited by aode06; 10-22-2013 at 06:30 PM.
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Old 10-23-2013, 07:08 AM
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also I called the dealership, they said to drive it around for a few days, the module that controls your gauges should re calibrate itself after 3 days.


Before doing that, disconnect the red and black battery wires, touch the black wire to the positive terminal on the battery and hold for 30 seconds.

Reconnect and drive for 3 days, if not, they said, their scanner should be able to re-train the car, cost $up to 150
 
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Old 10-23-2013, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by aode06
also I called the dealership, they said to drive it around for a few days, the module that controls your gauges should re calibrate itself after 3 days.


Before doing that, disconnect the red and black battery wires, touch the black wire to the positive terminal on the battery and hold for 30 seconds.

Reconnect and drive for 3 days, if not, they said, their scanner should be able to re-train the car, cost $up to 150
I have worked extensively with the gauge cluster (see my RealGauge product). The instrument recalibrates itself after a battery disconnect (or hard reset as you describe).

The original poster said he had already tried this. There is no auto recalibration after 3 days.

It appears there is an electrical fault in the car (as you previously suggested) or the cluster is damaged.
 
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Old 10-23-2013, 10:45 PM
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the dealer says it happens all the time, perhaps their scanner can help pinpoint the location of the module.
 
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Old 10-27-2013, 10:41 AM
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Today I installed another cluster that I bought from Ebay. All the gauges worked fine! No more mini windshield wipers!

However a number of errors flashed telling me that a number of things failed in the car and a message warning that "a" wrong part number was installed.

At least now I know that the problem is with the cluster! I will return this cluster ASAP. The company that sold it to me is www.EuropeanAutomotiveGroup.com and they were very helpful!

I found another company that's willing to take a crack at it again! But before I send it I will take the car to the dealer and maybe they can RE-TRAIN the cluster as it was suggested by one of you responders. What do you think? Thanks for your suggestions, you all!
 
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Old 10-28-2013, 07:44 AM
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yes the dealership,

I know it sucks, but some things we just cannot avoid seeing them, they designed their programming that way, besides you might have a free recall waiting and hot coffee in the lobby
 
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Old 10-28-2013, 07:48 AM
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Does the used cluster say 'supercharged' on the tachometer? If not, it is from an XK8 or XJ8 and will not work on an XJR without being reprogrammed.
 
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Old 05-29-2014, 06:58 AM
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Default Here is the fix

After all your suggestions, nothing seemed to work. The Jaguar dealer installed a new part and everything started to work as it should. Cost $1,300 (auch!). Lesson to be learned:


Check your user guide before jump starting a dead battery!!!!


Thank you all for your help and suggestions!
 
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Norri (05-29-2014)
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