Noticed some green hydraulic fluid below the convertible latch yesterday. Just a drip. I'm well aware of the hose failure problem and, since the weather is going to be crappy for the next 10 days, I thought it would be a good time to proactively tackle the job befor it turns into a shower. Upon inspection, the hoses look great (see pic). The fluid seems to be coming from the ram.

So, I am going to get the ram rebuilt but I'm wondering if I should do the hoses as well, especially as it's a much bigger job and another $300. My understanding is that the hose failure occurs more frequently in hot climates.......which is not what we have in north Idaho!

Thanks,
george

 

I would replace the hoses also, and take a good look at the rams. It's a lot of work, and not inexpensive, but if you plan on keeping the car.....

 

The hoses look good in the photo but would give a good inspection when you remove the latch. Be sure not to bend or tug on them when you do the R&R on the latch and leave them. Do you have a pressure reduction system on the roof hydraulics?

 

Gus,
Thanks. I've had the "resistor" scheme installed since I purchased the car in late 2012. And yes, I understand the differences and benefits of a true pressure reduction valve. Could you send me a PM with valve kit pricing?
George

 

Hoses appear to be in excellent shape ... cold climate ... there's no reason to think the hoses are not serviceable, maybe indefinitely.

it's a big job to replace them (reports say, no first-hand knowledge) and other things can get disturbed in the process.

 

I bought my car 3 years ago and spent the first year wincing every time I opened the top. Then, I changed the hoses and ram, added Gus's device and Jagwrangler's remote open. What a difference! I open the top way more often and never think about a leak. I think while you are there the peace of mind is worth the extra time and expense. It's a little laborious to change the hoses but not hard and the peace of mind is well worth it! Especially if you plan on owning the car a few years. 5 stars to both Gus and Wrangler for great devices!

 

I did this a few years ago. Replacing the hose is at least 8 hrs the first time you do it. ( I had to do it twice due to a defective new hose!). If I were you and had high confidence that the hoses were good, I would only do the ram now (use "top hydraulics") and plan to do the hoses and rear Rams later. If the front ram is leaking, the rear ones are probably not far behind since they see the same cycles and pressures. BTW, The second time is much faster.

 

Thanks for all the comments and opinions. After some consideration, I've decided to repair the leaky ram only since the hoses look perfect. I sent the part to Top Hydraulics on Friday, they will have it Monday and said they will be shipping it back on Tuesday. Great service!
I've had the "resistor method" pressure fix on the pump since I bought the car in late 2012, but I realize that that is not a perfect solution. So, next I'm going to install one of Gus's pressure reduction valves on the pump. Cost is about the same as new latch hoses, way less installation time, and should keep the pressure down on all the components including the rear cylinders and hoses - hopefully extending their life as long as I keep the car.
One other interesting observation: after tearing apart the the area above the windshield to get the ram out, I'm guessing that this is the bulk of the work for a hose replacment job- all that's left is pulling the front seat, console, rear seat, and running the new hoses. I could be wrong.

 

Gwagner,

FWIW, I think you've made a good choice leaving the hoses alone.

As you said, the resistor solution is indeed not perfect. Nor is any other system for reducing the odds of failure of original hoses. That's all any of them can do ... reduce the odds. By how much? Not so easy to judge as you might think.

 

'Drip' is an interesting word for one of the scenarios- I've had this from the start. I had the rear rams rebuilt already 3 years ago but didn't touch the front as the prior owner told me the 'green shower' had already happened. But over the course of a week or two, a drop appears on one of the map light buttons (faster in warmer weather, natch) and the inside of that panel is a mess! I've been meaning to just replace the panel, thinking it was residue from the 'shower', but the drips keep appearing... maybe this is more than prior spillage. Not sure if a resistor was used. Leaky ram? I probably need to address it at this point.

I'm usually good about dabbing the map light button for now before I get underway. But one time I forgot... I had just climbed in to head to work one morning in freshly pressed tan slacks... after a two week drop had slowly accumulated... you can see where this is going. I took a hard right corner and... just called in an unplanned vacation day. What! It's hydraulic fluid! That perfectly placed 'spot' on my pants now won't evaporate by the time I get to the office! And for whatever reason, either I was too far down the road to make it home and then to work again at a reasonable hour or I was out of clean slacks or my give a damn had broken by then, but that was that.

 

Interim solution: Always wear black slacks until you figure out your green shower drip issue....