Ok maybe not bulletproof, it is British after all. But I'd like to make the new acquisition a reliable driver by knocking out all recommended preventative maintenance. I have service records since new, so that should really help. Based on my list below, I'd like suggestions as to what I'm missing and should be planning to do. This is on a 1998 XK8 coupe with 118k.

Major work already done semi-recently: transmission rebuild, tires, timing chain and tensioners/rails, ABS pump rebuild, spark plugs, ignition coils, alternator, serpentine belt, thermostat and housing, coolant expansion tank, water pump, all of the radiator and coolant hoses, brake switch, brake pads and rotors front and rear.

Stuff I'm planning on doing: air filter, fuel filter, oil and filter change, oil pan gasket (leaks), upper strut mounts (shot), suspension bushing refresh, H&R springs + Bilstein B6 shocks, wiper blades, rear diff fluid, brake bleed, clean MAF, clean throttle body, check intake pipe for cracks, clean part-throttle breather, jack up sagging door, clean contacts in lights, power steering flush, Mina rear muffler bypass (just because), upgrade halogen headlight bulbs to LED or add projector HIDs.

All that plus a fixing a few minor things like a passenger seat switch, cleaning the hell out of it, and treating the leather with Leatherique oil.

 

Boy, you are going to be busy! I've been trying to perfect my XK8 for years, and it is still a work in progress! I don't think they left the factory tightly knobbed down, but where would the fun be if they were perfect?!!

A few points I would do has to do with rust and paint protection (I spent too much time under my cars...). Probably treat all rust spots (even superficial) by the sills, and add carbon ceramic covering to the paintwork. Good news for coupe owners, because if you consider a convertible, you definitely have to replace the hydraulic lines, clear up all the stupid residue that degrades from them, replace all the cylinders and refurb the pump (I know from experience!). I personally dislike the wood cracking, so I would also recommend a varnish protector.

But hey, if you plan on keeping it perfect, perhaps consider storing your vehicle in a climate controlled garage, completely drained of fluid, vacuum wrapped on jacks, or kept in one of those silly inflatable car protection bubbles!! Even then, I bet it would still leak...air!

 

Looks like you've got it pretty much covered. A couple of thoughts

Jack up sagging door
Yes I too remember someone suggesting that it can simply be jacked up. Friend, don't count on it working as a solution. Look, there's exceptions to everything but typically the door needs to be removed and welded.

Try this (I have same year). Open door, get down on knees, place hand on where the bottom hinge connects to door. Lift door up a bit (maybe your left leg has leverage in this position) feel for cracked sheet metal on door adjacent to hinge. If found = welding job. Figure $200.

Leather - unfortunately (or fortunately) the leather is coated with a (semi?) impermiable coating. IOW don't expect much penetration. I've found that Magic Eraser (ME)is wonderfully easy to use to clean these seats, including the vinyl. ME is a trademarked product sold in the states, if you're from another country. I was surprised/disappointed to realize the most of the covering is vinyl in our cars anyway;-).

Still on the seats: learn from me. DO NOT get into a habit of planting your butt on the left edge of the death back and sliding into the seat: you will wear through the leather in no time!! (And its a PITA to fix)

LED upgrades will do the job just fine for headlights. HUGE improvement. Some of us even replaced the incandescent dash bulbs with dimmable LEDS. Nothing but positive feedback as I recall. Come to think of it, I was going to do that, but never got around to it. PrettyBlueFin, a now deceased member was kind enough to post the LED bulb type, but I've lost track of that.

Upper shock mounts: Matt last thing you want is the poly replacement from Welsh - we've had countless stories of premature failure.

Biggest surprise for my 98? Simply replacing the rear sway bar links. Wonderful improvement, one of those things that changes so slowly you don't notice it. Highly recommended. Ok just remembered one more I found reasonably priced poly bushings for the sway bar links. Yes, I had to drill them out to fit, but nice improvement, last forever (ish). I posted name and photo of this but can't recall (getting tired). Just ask if you are interested, ez enough to look up 4u.

Rear lights. Wish I could recall who here discovered this, we should call it "[his name] mod". The ground wire to the rear light pod's circuit board is undersized. It can get hot enough to go defective. Easy fix:
Take the pod out. Drill hole in metal circuit board (its a huge ground plane). Solder a ring connector on some 16 guage wire. Rivet this to the circuit board using that hole you just drilled. Strip the other end, ground it to the chassis using any of the exposed nuts / bolts nearby. Do this for both light pods.

I'd love to hear about the changes with the new shocks, please post a review when you've got a feeling for it.

Years ago a gent who works with glass posted an excellent description of an unexpected glass (windshield) cleaner: Bon Ami Original formula. I've used it ever since never found anything better. But I'm really telling you about it because I found it works wonders cleaning the wheels! Not sure which wheels you have, I've got the chrome revolver wheels, works great.

Bluetooth - many of us, myself included bought the JAG-HFDC Bluetooth adapter from Discount Stereo. It allows CD or Bluetooth. Hint if you buy one, buy the wireless button to advance to next song.

Sooner or later you'll get fed up with kneeling the valet switch as you get in the car. Solution? Just move it to the identically sized cutout on other side of the panel, super ez job.

Enough for now Matt. Look forward to working with you.

John

 

Thanks gents!

Dayton this thing will be anything but kept in a bubble! I’d rate exterior cosmetics as “good enough”, but I bought it to DRIVE. I regularly drive between DFW and Wichita, KS, so I’m wanted a fun and comfortable car that I wouldn’t care about putting miles on. Hence my emphasis on making it reliable. It’s a CA car so fortunately rust isn’t a concern.

John, I’ll definitely post my feedback from the suspension upgrade. I’ll also refresh all of the bushings, ball joints, sway bar links, etc. The only visible damage is to the right front lower ball joint but I know there’s more wear that I can’t see. Interesting about the rear light ground wire, I’ll definitely look into that. If you haven’t tried it, I very highly recommend Leatherique for leather surfaces. The oil treatment works wonders in older leather, and the cleaner does a great job and smells fantastic. I didn’t list it with maintenance but I plan to install a single DIN CarPlay capable head unit using the single DIN adapter info in the FAQ, likely the Boss Audio BE7-ACP from Crutchfield. It’s single DIN but has a 7” touchscreen display that should fit well in replacing the original head unit.

 

Appears you have a GREAT start, but nowhere did we notice mention of the original plastic timing chain tensioners being upgraded to metal. This item can ruin you careful plan in a heartbeat. Enjoy the ride!

 

I wasn’t very descriptive in my original post, the tensioners, guides, and timing chain have been replaced. That was a pretty pricey receipt, and one of the reason I bought this one.

 

If you want BULLETPROOF, the X350 was fitted with B6 armor plating as an option!

 

If you are going to get the Mina muffler system you might want to get the aluminum air intake tube they sell as well. The plastic accordion style one in mine was cracked and for a few bucks more I got the Mina aluminum one. That's one part I'll never have to replace again.
You'll love the sound of the car with the Mina system. It gives the car a real growl especially when you put your foot into it.

 

^^ Another vote for the Mina aluminum air intake tube kit. Install it and no more splitting / cracking issues with the air intake ever again....

 

You guys are already seeing part of my cunning plan for approval by the CFO. I’ll “inspect” the intake tube which I’m sure will be cracked, order the Mina part as a reliability upgrade, and then I might as well order the exhaust too while I’m placing my order. Right?

 

Remember it's easier to beg for forgiveness than ask for permission.

 

I just bought an old Jag to use as a daily driver, so I’m very familiar with that concept! Fortunately she likes the thing, so that helps.