Hi Guys, Wow I'm disappointed. I was all geared up to have my mechanic replace the rear bearing on the driver's side, which needs it badly.

I forwarded him ChillyPhilly's write up for the parts list:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...nstall-189458/

but the mechanic has unexpectedly backed out on me last minute. He told me he was reading about the job (not sure where) and sees that one may need "Shims", which he doesn't have. He politely declined to do the job.

I've been thinking about showing him that this is not as complex as he thought, many of us have done this job, but the more I think about it the more I realize I'm going to wind up doing it myself.

ChllyPhilly's write up seems comprehensive, though there was discussion about measuring "end play." Let me check my interpritation of this with you:

If the new bearings are the exact same size, it can all be reassembled the way you took it apart and all will fit properly. Regardless - you have to measure Hub end float twice during reassembly.

1) First when you install the ABS sensor to hub using a "Dial Guage" (is the is the same thing as a run out guage?)

Align assembly to press-ram, and operate press to install ABS-sensor rotor to hub.

10. [diagram of the guage didn't paste]

CAUTION:

Do not use excessive force when levering hub.
Measure hub end-float.

Secure hub carrier in vice.

Install special tool JD15 to hub.

1. Install dial gauge JD 13A on hub carrier.

2. Using two levers, measure and record hub end-float.

2) Second, one is supposed to measure the hub end float (the following is from the xk8 manual's directions for the second measurment page 331):

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"18. Determine hub end float.Measure and record end-float as a datum.

Calculating from datum, select a shim that will achieve a 0.076 mm end-float."
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I suppose I can see where this would scare off a mechanic who doesn't have a selection of "shims" available.

Whether it is the mechanic or me doing the job - I've gotta ask: How does one plan to do the job, confident that they can set proper hub end float? I don't expect the shims are readily availble anywhere nearby.

How can one do this job themselves without a prepurchased selection of shims?

Well I hope there is an easy / obvious answer that I'm missing. Looks like I'll be doing this job myself, probably a good thing, but I just didn't want to get hung up on an extensive job because I have a medical procedure coming up.

It just occured to me. If you are smart enough to answer this shim question, I'm sure you have been through this before. Would you mind telling me how to measure this hub end float? 0.076mm is so small I can't picture where to measure what. We are measuring something's thickness right? (whe I see dial guage I think of run out)

None of the instructions is saying what / where to measure.

I assume a micrometer will be sufficient. Though if I look hard enough i can probably find a run out guage in the shop.

Thanks a bunch my friends. Looks like I have to buckle down and do the job myself.

John

 

John, you will be measuring how much movement between stops, so the dial indicator placed in the proper position will give you that. Just pry it from one side to the other with what works.
I agree, not much movement, but that is a good fit for bearings.

 

Thanks Wayne. What does stops refer to? I guess when I think of this bearing I figure there is smooth movement for wheel rotation in either direction. Does this measure movement of the wheel in and out towards the rear end? Ah I should stop guessing and just ask .


John

 

whether you need shims all depends on what bearings are fitted and what bearings you intend to fit. The originals are good quality and will all be around the same size within a small tolerance band. Cheaper bearings are cheap for a reason and will have a wider tolerance which may require different shims. either way, any decent mechanic will attempt the job, any that shy away are best avoided anyway. I did mine and the original shims gave the correct end float, its not a difficult job.

 

If you go to the "HOW TO" at the top of the thread listings and scroll around you will find you can download the complete shop manual for your car. Download the PDF second edition 1999. It will have tool details as well as drawings depicting the measurements.
It's fairly close to the bottom of the page.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ts-data-29800/

 

Vern, thanks mate. Believe it or not, I was quoting from that same document.

I must be thick headed, but I couldn't visualize this float measurement. On top of that I am clueless on where I'd get a proper shim if needed.

I probably got too wordy in my questions.

1) where do you measure for float (like: between this and that John).

2) where are shims obtained from if needed?

2a) did chillyphilly's choice of Timken brand match or so no shims needed?

Thanks John

 

I went to the mechanic today to figure out what happened. Yes, as you suspected he didn't want to tie up his lift as he learns this job, perhaps he will never see one again.

At least he explained my question about hub float and what to measure how.

You are measuring play (in / out) as you pry the hub from underneath. Now I understand why they use a dial indicator (what I called a run out guage), since you are measuring any motion. Looks like I'm going to have to "arrange" my workshop's shelves in hopes of finding that dial indicator i bought 10+ years ago to measure run out on my turntable.

Wanted to post in case anyone else wonders.

John

 

John, don't know where you are in NJ, but I know a private ex jag mech in Andover just outside Sparta. Let me know if you want his number he's very good
Cheers
Jeremy

 

Friends, wanted to share. I was price shopping for the rear wheel bearing kit. $101 average. I just called Terrys Jag and asked. Nice guy, Buzz, answered.

He already knew I'd need a new lug nut. He quoted the price for new bearing kit $2145. Whew I thought, I know some places are expensive, but this is crazy. Stayed polite ready to say thanks anyway but thats an incredible markup. It took him repeating it 3 times to sink in. They sell it for $21.45! They claim great results. I never expected them to be 1/5th the price of the big shops like parts geek.

Oh, BTW they sell the lug nut for $26.00.

If it wasn't such a well known place is be more skeptical.
I'll let you know how the job goes.

John