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Curiosity Question? Is the crossbrace as depicted in the Reco19 picture unique to convertible vs. a coupe to counter body twist of a convertible vs. a coupe? When looking at the parts listing in FAQ section, it refers to the crossbrace as a "convertible" crossbrace. I know manufacturers will reinforce the undercarriage of a convertible vs. a hardtop.
Also, I have read that to lift the total front end of the vehicle, one should lift under the crossmember (crossbeam - Jaguar nomenclature?) between the A-arms. I have been lifting at the Reco19 location and putting a block of wood between the crossbrace and crossbeam to avoid distorting the crossbrace.
My Coupe does not have the Crossover Braces.
The Crossmember is under the Radiator as Sam (and JTIS Diagram shows).
The Crossbeam is the Aluminum member between the Front Wheels and is NOT to be used as a Jacking Point.
I used the frame as shown in Rev Sam's pics. Structurally it is the only beam that has strength to support 1/2 the car's weight. The x-cross member is fragile and using it could result in it buckling inwards.
I'm glad this finally got hashed out. It seems like the question is raised every few months, and the FAQs weren't very clear. I wasn't even sure if the point I was using was correct, but it seems like the consensus is that the beam below the radiator is the correct spot. Hopefully this will help some people in the future. Just be aware that that plastic piece is going to make a cracking sound. I guess that's normal.
What are the recommended jacking points for a 2-post lift ? All searches so far talk about the OEM emergency jack, and using floor/trolley jacks. These all refer to using the OEM points on the sills, but does the X100 not have better places for the jack pads inboard of the sills when using a 2-post lift ?
Could you tell us about how you caught this or how it came up for you ?
This is only relevant for verts as the area does not exist on coups.
I watched the video before going to jack up my car but then noticed that the area described was very flimsy in the vertical axis needed for jacking the car so checked in the workshop manual which shows the correct position under the diff.
Jacking in the area suggested in the video could result in the collapse of the bracket and bent braces or a lot worse if you are under the car.
It is a real shame that this video is still out there with such a major error as Rev Sam is seen as a real guru and owners will follow his advice without thinking with potentially bad consequences.
The bracket in question is just made out of 20 gauge mild steel with no vertical bracing.
I have a 2005 XK*s coupe, which I have always used the jacking point up the front using the front cross member......but NOT anymore !!
Jacked up and it bent and came in contact with the bottom of the rad, luckily just stopped in time. Then lowered the car, and looked at a very bent beam. Finally sorted the problem, my son in law said to remove the fan assembly, which I did, & I removed the top hose, and the top of the bottom hose, it makes it so much easier and you loose around a pint of antifreeze. Then remove the plastic top and pull the rad out at the top and up a little, then from under the car I put a couple of wooden wedges in to lift it both sides. In the beam there is a small slit right in the centre that you can (with difficulty) just get a lifting strap through. I cut one of mine down and put two holes through it with a soldering iron, worked a treat, then bolted through to form a loop don't go over the transmission and brake pipes. Then bolted a bit of box steel to the garage floor with a space beneath it to get the loop of the other end of the strap through. The picture I show, I had to alter, and cut it down to a 10" piece, or you cant get the two jacks in. Then with the two jacks in place and a friendly assistant, we both jack up the car together, checking as you go till it straightens out....WHICH IT DID.
Then wire brushed....Jenolite rust treatment.......primer.....paint.......Dinitrol underseal..... and its done. AND NEVER, NEVER USE THIS BEAM TO JACK THE CAR UP AGAIN, OK WHEN ITS NEW BUT NOT AFTER 20 YEARS. FANS OUT MADE UP A LIFTING STRAP ORIGINAL BEAM, WHICH HAD TO BE CUT WOWN TO A LENGTH OF 10" TO GET BOTH JACKS IN STRAP THROUGH A VERY NARROW SLIT DONT GO OVER THE PIPES THATS BETTER BEFORE AFTER
[img alt="COMPLETED
"]https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jaguarforums.com-vbulletin/2000x1563/img_0909_976723df3ecd8eebdcaea49ed26acbc8f2a26474. jpeg[/img] COMPLETED
AFTER RUST TREATMENT AND PAINTING, NEVER TO BE USED FOR JACKING UP AGAIN !!
Last edited by Deggo27; Jun 16, 2025 at 07:12 PM.
Reason: MISSING PICTURE
I have a 2005 XK*s coupe, which I have always used the jacking point up the front using the front cross member......but NOT anymore !!
Jacked up and it bent and came in contact with the bottom of the rad, luckily just stopped in time. Then lowered the car, and looked at a very bent beam. Finally sorted the problem, my son in law said to remove the fan assembly, which I did, & I removed the top hose, and the top of the bottom hose, it makes it so much easier and you loose around a pint of antifreeze. Then remove the plastic top and pull the rad out at the top and up a little, then from under the car I put a couple of wooden wedges in to lift it both sides. In the beam there is a small slit right in the centre that you can (with difficulty) just get a lifting strap through. I cut one of mine down and put two holes through it with a soldering iron, worked a treat, then bolted through to form a loop don't go over the transmission and brake pipes. Then bolted a bit of box steel to the garage floor with a space beneath it to get the loop of the other end of the strap through. The picture I show, I had to alter, and cut it down to a 10" piece, or you cant get the two jacks in. Then with the two jacks in place and a friendly assistant, we both jack up the car together, checking as you go till it straightens out....WHICH IT DID.
Then wire brushed....Jenolite rust treatment.......primer.....paint.......Dinitrol underseal..... and its done. AND NEVER, NEVER USE THIS BEAM TO JACK THE CAR UP AGAIN, OK WHEN ITS NEW BUT NOT AFTER 20 YEARS.
Were you using the jack head alone in the middle of the crossbeam?
My car is 28 years old and I occasionally use that beam but with a piece of thick timber under it to spread the load and have never seen the slightest movement in the beam. Perhaps the wood is an essential part of the operation?
I think his crossbeam would break even with a load spreader, due to corrosion. I always lift my car in that way whithout problems, but my car has zero rust.
