I'll have to do it to inspect connecting rod bearings.
Do I have to drop suspension/subframe?
thanks.

 

That's more work than you might expect.. You will have to remove the oil sump body and windage tray, and I don't know if it's possible with the engine in the car.

 

You can hold up the engine with a cross bar tool and drop the subframe. Nocando with the subframe in place.

 

With what it is going to take to get to them, it begs the question. Why do you need to inspect them?

 

Sounds like knocking connecting rods. I didn't start diagnosing yet. I invented a tool to repair connecting rod journals w/o removing engine, so it is not a big deal. But removing oil pan is going to take awhile. I will have to mark subframe not to mess up alignment. Some cars need subframe adjustment to change caster.
Dropping subframe is not worst case scenario, Crown Vics have welded crossmember and engine has to be removed to remove oil pan.

 

I would brace the engine and drop the crossmember then- easy access from below and an opportunity to replace some bushings in the process.

 

Yes, that's the best way. Support engine from above. Remove steering lower connector and lines, engine mounts, upper shock mount, xbrace, wheel speed sensors, calipers and I think that's everything ( I may have missed something). Then it's support it and unbolt it.

 

Even when you remove the lower sump plate (structural sump) there is still the upper plate that is the actual MAIN BEARING PLATE (bed plate). The plate and main bearing caps are all in one large part for strength and rigidity.
It will be in the way for most rotating components. The con-rod caps should be accessible through the bed plate slots but don't expect any room on the sides.

You will need to remove the front timing cover and gearbox. They both have bolts into the parts you need to remove (structural sump).

If you remove the primary timing chains and the bed plate, the crankshaft will fall out.

You might want to download my student guide V6/V8 engine repair course 168. I took my paper guide to a copy shop and had it converted to .pdf.

bob

 

 

If "main bearing holder" of 4.2 looks like this one (Jag 3.0), I'll be fine,repairing connecting rod journals.f
I couldn't upload picture
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2005-JAGUAR...1R7:rk:11:pf:0

 

The lower steel sump has a 'rubber' seal. The plate above the steel sump ('structural sump') is an aluminum plate with NO GASKET.
Jaguar uses a silicone based sealant (hylosil) applied as a 'bead' in areas shown in the Engine Repair Course literature.

bob

 

Yes,the oil pan is an easy removal. Just unbolt the pan and drop it off. This pan is just a cover plate, it does not have the sump in it.
There is a rubber gasket and that's it. The pan is small and simple. There is nothing in the way. Getting to the con rods is another matter since, as Brutal noted, there is a sub assembly frame between the pan and the main bearings. Not just a huge sump like an old American V8.

 

Per the workshop manual, the rod bearings and caps are installed with the crankshaft girdle in place.

Once you have the lower pan removed, you should be good.

https://workshop-manuals.com/jaguar/xjr_(x308)/v8-4.0l_sc_(aj27)/engine_cooling_and_exhaust/engine/cylinder_block_assembly/connecting_rod_bearing/component_information/specifications/page_1292/

 

thanks! Great info!

 

Is there a link to download? I looked at the top of the forum and didn't see anything.

 

I sent Gus a copy. It will also be on his site.

bob