How hard is it to remove oil pan? I need to replace rod bearings.
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Location: Great Mills, MD
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car5car, as for dropping the oil pan, you need to decide on the method that you want to take. As you will see, there are pros and cons to each method. The obvious one is to unbolt it normally. The downside to this is that you have to drop the transfer case out of the way which as you can imagine is tons of hours worth of things that need to get removed (shop quote something like 16 hours to do this job).
Option #2 is to drill a hole through the support for the transfer case that is blocking the one bolt that you are going to have issues with using a hole saw. You only want to drill a hole just big enough to get the socket through for getting the bolt out. Probably the quickest method, but now you are affecting the strength of a support for the transfer case.
Option 3 is to take an open end wrench and back the bolt out that is being blocked as much as practical. From there, you will need to get in there with a dremel tool or angle grinder and cut the head off of the bolt. From there, you can remove the rest of the bolt using some channel locks (or the like) and then when you go to reinstall, use a shorter bolt to apply the clamping force. You only need a few threads to engage as this is not taking any major load.
As for a manual, look up above in the FAQ area. There is a post about downloading a JTIS manual. That will have all the info that you need.
Option #2 is to drill a hole through the support for the transfer case that is blocking the one bolt that you are going to have issues with using a hole saw. You only want to drill a hole just big enough to get the socket through for getting the bolt out. Probably the quickest method, but now you are affecting the strength of a support for the transfer case.
Option 3 is to take an open end wrench and back the bolt out that is being blocked as much as practical. From there, you will need to get in there with a dremel tool or angle grinder and cut the head off of the bolt. From there, you can remove the rest of the bolt using some channel locks (or the like) and then when you go to reinstall, use a shorter bolt to apply the clamping force. You only need a few threads to engage as this is not taking any major load.
As for a manual, look up above in the FAQ area. There is a post about downloading a JTIS manual. That will have all the info that you need.
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car5car (02-10-2014)
#4
Thanks Thermo!!!!! Perfect info!!!!!!
Main bearings are usually OK, when Rod bearings go bad.
Seller also says climate control is bad.
1500 is probably too much, there is clear coat peeling and it is 60 miles to his house. Just gas will cost me $70
I guess I need to remove rear shaft to tow it on tow dolly. AWD.
Does transfer case have limited slip differential or something like that??
I'll tell him 1000
I downloaded manual from here. Nice! All Jags 95-03
Main bearings are usually OK, when Rod bearings go bad.
Seller also says climate control is bad.
1500 is probably too much, there is clear coat peeling and it is 60 miles to his house. Just gas will cost me $70
I guess I need to remove rear shaft to tow it on tow dolly. AWD.
Does transfer case have limited slip differential or something like that??
I'll tell him 1000
I downloaded manual from here. Nice! All Jags 95-03
Last edited by car5car; 02-09-2014 at 09:02 PM.
#5
I did an engine swap to cure mine. I was surprised how reasonably priced the 2.5 engines are on the used market.
I read somewhere, maybe on this forum, that early 2002 engines have plastic timing chain tensions with a high failure rate. The engine I bought was a 2003 so I could be sure to get the metal ones. The 2003 was otherwise 100% identical to the 2002 model.
I read somewhere, maybe on this forum, that early 2002 engines have plastic timing chain tensions with a high failure rate. The engine I bought was a 2003 so I could be sure to get the metal ones. The 2003 was otherwise 100% identical to the 2002 model.
Last edited by AlfaVeloce; 02-10-2014 at 12:23 AM.
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