I was driving my 1997 XK-8 along the fine Baltimore roadways when I hit a whole car drop in the road where it was being graded:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nr3O...ature=youtu.be

I don't think anything hit the ground but it was a hard jostle. When I tried to accelerate after passing through I realized the car was dead and I drifted to a stop.

I tried putting it in park and restarting it but nothing happened, no click, nothing. Power is still normal for all other aspects of the car (stereo, lights, signals, etc.)

There is also a series of warnings cycling through the dash:

Drivers door open (it was, no big deal)
Low temperature outside (never seen before, it was quite warm outside)
Stability control fail (this has been on since I got the car)
Transmission fault (I've had transmission issues but this is new)
Bulb fail rear (this is a new one)
Hood open (it was)
Trunk open (it was)
Electrical fault (new one)
Suspension fault (new one)
Engine fault (new)

Then they repeat.

I'm guessing that some wire/sensor got knocked loose but I have no idea where to start. Any thoughts?

 

It may be a bad connection, or the battery has failed. Check the many positive and ground connections, making sure they are clean and tight, and also test the battery voltage.

 

Wouldn't a battery failure affect the power to lights etc?

 

If it as short enough of a bib in power before the lights went dim , but long enough to effect the ECU's might explain it . The ECU's my be out of sequence now and may need a hard reset or simply a B+ battery terminal removal for a period of time .

 

A reset is probably the first thing I'll try, but I was hoping for more possibilities should that fail. What could have come loose that would freak it out in this manner?

 

Would have to pull all the prints of the things you saw at the event and see what the common denominator is . Could be a open cell in the battery that opened during bounce or a shared between the systems relay that is " floating " with a weak or broken overcenter or clamping spring . Or could be the battery lead terminal post ( a couple ) through the car other then the one on the terminal post .

This is a starting point and overview without getting into specifics that someone may know more about from a history and percentages point of view .

 

Since you still have electrical power to some areas, there is a distinct possibility that the inertia switch for the fuel pump was tripped. It is installed next to the fuses in the passenger-side fascia. When activated by a crash, it de-energizes the ignition relays in the engine compartment, and both the driver's side fascia and trunk fuse boxes. It also removes ground inputs from the BPM and windshield wiper stalk switch. This stops the engine and fuel pump, unlocks any locked door, and de-energizes unnecessary electrical systems.

Open the passenger door, pull the cover from the fuze box, then reset the inertia switch by pressing down on top of the switch (see red arrow of attached picture). Let us know if this worked!

 

+1



Graham

 

Interesting, I thought about this as a possible culprit. I was gently rear ended a few years ago and the car wouldn't hold idle afterwards and I thought the inertia switch might be to blame. Turns out it was a wire in the engine that got knocked loose.

I figured the switch needed to be hit harder than this bump to go off, and would that trigger all these warnings? Not sure but it will be added to the list of possible cures.

 

It's the easiest possibility to check.

 

Mine is LHD and my inertia switch is inside the driver's side facia panel as your left hand side figure showed.
I do not think that mine is oddly located. Could someone clarify?
Thanks

 

Yes it is.

 

Yes it is odd or yes it is correct?
Thanks RJ

 

I think your blue book value may have just gone up by a whole $100! (Or down; not sure what the ramifications are...)

 

left

 

Inertia switch was unlikely as the car should still crank but not start as the switch shuts off the fuel pump, not the starter.

In any case...SOLVED! My mechanic explained to me the wiring on early XKs was a little sloppy, and the wires take some weird turns and rub up against the back seat and the frame.

Eventually they wear out and the bump I hit must have been the last straw, causing the power from the battery to no longer reach the engine. Patched up the wiring, $750.

 

Glad you found the culprit. Sounds like something everyone with an early model XK8 should take a moment to inspect as part of preventative maintenance (and also determine the location of their inertia switch, too...).