Left front tire bad wear
#1
Left front tire bad wear
Well my kiddy is parked. By accident a week ago I went to a friends house and parked the Jag with the wheels turned tight left. When I came out I noticed the inside inch of the front left tire was worn thru two steel belts. No other abnormal wear on any of the tires. Also the worn tire had no abnormal wear other than the inside edge.
tires have about 5K and I replaced everything under the front about 8K ago.
just bought a new house and busy moving so I parked her for awhile until I have time to pull the wheel and see what's what.
steering has been a little erratic but I just relocated to NC and thought it was the crappy rural roads as on a new interstate near my house it handled fine.
any idea what could have caused this on just one side?
tires have about 5K and I replaced everything under the front about 8K ago.
just bought a new house and busy moving so I parked her for awhile until I have time to pull the wheel and see what's what.
steering has been a little erratic but I just relocated to NC and thought it was the crappy rural roads as on a new interstate near my house it handled fine.
any idea what could have caused this on just one side?
#2
#3
Wheel alignment
As you’ve only 5000 miles from the tyre, I presume you haven’t track raced the car. The clue is in the front end rebuild. Jon89 presumes this was suspension and if that is the case, your front left wheel is badly out of alignment. You mention bad roads so I suspect a bent arm somewhere, hence your rebuild. Missing/loosing spacers during the rebuild could be pulling your geometry off too.
check the alignment at a garage using computer and lasers and post results here
check the alignment at a garage using computer and lasers and post results here
#5
Had the same issue on both front tires in my 03 XKR when I got it. I thought for sure it was the camber being off but it actually was as simple as the toe setting. The tire shop I use was incapable of doing a complete alignment but I asked them to adjust the toe and the wear went away entirely. Best $50 I ever spent! Huge relief as I wore through a new set of front tires in 3-4k miles. This also straightened out a cockeyed steering wheel. Hope this is what you need for your Jag.
#6
#7
Wheel Alignment Results
Gents,
Seen a few threads now on badly worn tyres after just relatively short mileage. It's good practise to get proper wheel alignment computerized tests after new tyre fittings. The Toe Out problems people are referring to is easing diagnosed in these tests which are relatively inexpensive. You should be getting something similar to my sample below. This is a good place to start to diagnose the problem. If this doesn't show the problem, then there's something else going on.
Seen a few threads now on badly worn tyres after just relatively short mileage. It's good practise to get proper wheel alignment computerized tests after new tyre fittings. The Toe Out problems people are referring to is easing diagnosed in these tests which are relatively inexpensive. You should be getting something similar to my sample below. This is a good place to start to diagnose the problem. If this doesn't show the problem, then there's something else going on.
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#8
Thanks all, yes after the rebuild I had a Roadforce alignment done and everything was in spec. What has thrown me off is the car does not pull one way or the other on good roads at speed, 70 mph plus, it will be a few weeks before I have time to pull the wheel and check for anything obvious.
#9
OK, finally had some time to look at the Jag issue. Removed the tires and the front left is completely destroyed with inner wear thru the belts on a 1 inch wide strip. The right side shows abnormal wear on the inside edge but not thru the belts.
Inspected for any issues and the only thing I could see was on the left side the front lower control arm bushing looked very dry with cracks in the rubber (this is the only part I did not replace when I rebuilt my front suspension a couple years ago as the right side was a Bi#@h to do), the right side the upper shock mount has collapsed.
I'm sure the toe is off also but don't want to take for an alignment until I replace some parts.
So the plan is to order new upper shock mounts for both sides and I want to change to poly bushings on the upper and lower control arms, both sides.
What is a good source for the poly bushings and poly upper shock mounts?
Inspected for any issues and the only thing I could see was on the left side the front lower control arm bushing looked very dry with cracks in the rubber (this is the only part I did not replace when I rebuilt my front suspension a couple years ago as the right side was a Bi#@h to do), the right side the upper shock mount has collapsed.
I'm sure the toe is off also but don't want to take for an alignment until I replace some parts.
So the plan is to order new upper shock mounts for both sides and I want to change to poly bushings on the upper and lower control arms, both sides.
What is a good source for the poly bushings and poly upper shock mounts?
#10
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#11
Turns out that powerflex poly was not the fit and forget solution for me, after two years I had to fit a new set to the uppers (supplied free by powerflex) and now two years later I am swapping both the uppers and lowers out of the original matalastic/slipflex.
Realistically they may need to be stripped and regreased every couple of years, powerflex admitted this to me in an email.
A problem with their upper bushes is that they supply dedicated washers made from mild steel with a zinc coating, the zinc coating wears off and then the washers start to rust, they can the bind to the fulcrum bolt and also destroy the caster shims.
The only way to avoid this is to make your own washers out of stainless steel. If you look at the OEM "top hat" washers you can see that they have a thick chrome coating to prevent corrosion.
See full details here.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...3/#post1518714
...and a quote from Powerflex.
Realistically they may need to be stripped and regreased every couple of years, powerflex admitted this to me in an email.
A problem with their upper bushes is that they supply dedicated washers made from mild steel with a zinc coating, the zinc coating wears off and then the washers start to rust, they can the bind to the fulcrum bolt and also destroy the caster shims.
The only way to avoid this is to make your own washers out of stainless steel. If you look at the OEM "top hat" washers you can see that they have a thick chrome coating to prevent corrosion.
See full details here.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...3/#post1518714
...and a quote from Powerflex.
In theory, if the contact points are greased they should be a fit and forget part.
We used to supply copper grease with our parts that in extreme temperatures could dry, however we now use a PTFE/Silicone grease that is much better at coping in those sort of conditions.
However with any part that rotates and is open to the elements, an occasional re-grease is never going to do it any harm.
It’d be impossible to give a recommend mileage/age to do this however.
Kind Regards
We used to supply copper grease with our parts that in extreme temperatures could dry, however we now use a PTFE/Silicone grease that is much better at coping in those sort of conditions.
However with any part that rotates and is open to the elements, an occasional re-grease is never going to do it any harm.
It’d be impossible to give a recommend mileage/age to do this however.
Kind Regards
Last edited by RaceDiagnostics; 03-16-2019 at 09:09 AM.
The following 5 users liked this post by RaceDiagnostics:
CorStevens (03-16-2019),
Jandreu (03-18-2019),
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#12
RD, thanks for the insite, my uppers were replaced with original spec bushings a couple years ago and actually still look good so based on your feed back will probably leave them alone.
am thinking to use ploy on the loweres as they apear to be easier to install. How have your lowers held up?
am thinking to use ploy on the loweres as they apear to be easier to install. How have your lowers held up?
#13
They have been on for four years and were installed with the supplied grease, however they are now very stiff and it seems the grease has dried out or been squeezed out so they now make a bit of a creak.
As for the ride, it did not feel any harsher than the rubber bushes to me.
I'm a bit disillusioned with them now so will go back to the metalstic rubber ones. Fitting the poly ones is much easier than pushing in the metalastic ones (I think lots of lub is the solution).
As for the ride, it did not feel any harsher than the rubber bushes to me.
I'm a bit disillusioned with them now so will go back to the metalstic rubber ones. Fitting the poly ones is much easier than pushing in the metalastic ones (I think lots of lub is the solution).
#14
#15
#16
From the photos you posted on the other thread, it seems your poly bushes are still good, they just need lube. Poly bushes require periodic lubrication. Some research yielded that they should be re-lubed every 5 years or when they squeak, whichever happens first. I read that someone on here was thinking about drilling the control arm and tapping in a new zerk fitting for lubricating the poly-bushes.
Last edited by giandanielxk8; 03-19-2019 at 12:16 PM.
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