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Locks, Trunk and Fuel lids/ top mechanism not functioning
Dear fellow list mates and lovers of these beautiful cats,
Another XK8 unwelcome surprise for me! I no longer have the fuel lid and trunk lid opening function. Also, convertible top will not function with either the key in door or the switch on console. Also, neither of my key fobs work to perform any function. I tracked down the fuse (#10 slot) in trunk and found it was blown. When I placed a new one in the slot (same 10A) the horn and a bunch of racket came in response. New fuse burnt in short order. I also note a strong burnt plastic smell around the trunk fuse box. I believe my security module may be fried! Not sure what caused this series of events but upon removing the security module I was able to confirm the burnt odor is coming from it.
Anyone with ideas about what could cause this and best way to get the module repaired or replaced without visiting a dealer??
...Also, convertible top will not function with either the key in door or the switch on console. Also, neither of my key fobs work to perform any function. I tracked down the fuse (#10 slot) in trunk and found it was blown. When I placed a new one in the slot (same 10A) the horn and a bunch of racket came in response. New fuse burnt in short order. I also note a strong burnt plastic smell around the trunk fuse box. I believe my security module may be fried! Not sure what caused this series of events but upon removing the security module I was able to confirm the burnt odor is coming from it.
Anyone with ideas about what could cause this and best way to get the module repaired or replaced without visiting a dealer??
Repair or replace may depend on how damaged it is. If you can post a pic or two of the damage that may help. If you have to go the replacement route, you need to match the full part # (including the /nnn suffix) from your VCATS label, and it needs to be one from a convertible. Unfortunately, the s/h prices seem to be on a northward hike nowadays
@piper - it's underneath the fuses in the trunk fusebox. Not too difficult to get at, but some of the connector leads are quite short.
I am leaning toward having the module repaired as opposed to buying one from a breaker outfit. I see a repair service costing $200.00 and other purchase options starting at $100.00 and higher. My understanding is that my repaired board would go back in the car and function without the need to be programmed. I am investigating this now and If this is true, I will certainly pay to repair my module to avoid the hassle and unknown cost that locating a service provider that can program a replacement!
Anyone willing to share their recent experience with having a repair or replacement of this module?
Thanks in advance for taking time to respond.
Nothing jumping out at me either. Strange. Could the burnt smell be coming from the lamp control module that cohabits the fusebox:?
I will check it out! If the lamp control module has a short, would that also cause the fuse at position 10 to burn out?
Providing you can source an identical replacement, programming will be limited to just teaching the module to recognise the key fobs.
Ok, that is good news! I was under the assumption that the module would not lock/unlock the doors or work the top etc if not programmed to my car. That opens up other possibilities for a replacement😊
I will check it out! If the lamp control module has a short, would that also cause the fuse at position 10 to burn out?
Highly unlikely. F10 is one of the two B+ feeds direct to the SLM, and nothing else. I was trying to confirm where the burning smell originated as there's nothing that I can see on the SLM pics you've posted where the magic smoke could have come from.
Does the fuse just blow after you replace it, before trying any functions?
For what's its worth, I have 2002 XKR that security module failed, (moisture damage) I sent it out to a company that said they could repair it. Once they got it, they told me that they could only repair tail light issue that was only on the older models. A new module was not available. My only option was to find a used module that matched the VCATS code. After almost 2 years of searching, I was able to locate one from Jagbits.com
It was about $500, but it was plug and play. Alli had to do was program my key fobs to the new to me module. Best wishes on your search for a replacement module.
Highly unlikely. F10 is one of the two B+ feeds direct to the SLM, and nothing else. I was trying to confirm where the burning smell originated as there's nothing that I can see on the SLM pics you've posted where the magic smoke could have come from.
Does the fuse just blow after you replace it, before trying any functions?
Yes, fuse blows upon inserting into slot.
This is the time of year that driving with the top down is especially nice…..security module also powers the top motor function unfortunately. Still searching for a repair/replacement. Moisture/water damage is reported as usual cause for security module failure. I have not had any of that.. car lives in garage and generally not driven in rainy weather as it is almost exclusively used with top down. Some have reported a failure of this module without a triggering event or cause leaving one to think age is cause?!?
Will see…..
Have you tried that with the module plugged in and also with the module unplugged - just to rule out a wiring problem? The lack of obvious damage on the board would suggest to me its a good idea just to make sure your wiring is ok before definitely blaming the module.
Ok, tried it with light module unplugged. Everything else plugged in, including both plugs on the security module. Now, I get a series of beeps, and then the car alarm goes off (horn blows, etc.). This is a change. Also, ten amp. fuse, no longer blows and alarm stops blaring after about a minute or maybe less it seems like a long time. I plugged the light module back in and get the same results, i.e. a series of beeps and then the car alarm goes off, etc. Fuse no longer blows. Don’t know what if anything changed as all I have done is take the module out, examine it and put it back. Also, I still haven’t found the cause of the burn plastic smell! I have done a lot of searching in the entire area of the trunk fuse panel.
The series of beeps appears to be a warning that the alarm is getting ready to blast. I don’t know what conditions are triggering this or how to stop the alarm before it goes off or even while it is blaring. I have pulled the 10 amp fuse thinking that would stop the alarm blaring but it doesn’t.
Michael,
I agree. With the module plugged in, the car won't start.....sooooo, I pulled the battery cable to reset the system and tried again with it plugged in with no difference in outcome....same as before....alarm is triggered.
I am able to start the car after disconnecting the security module completely and removing the battery cable to re-boot the system.
Well, the car runs fabulously now with the new coil module installed!! Thanks again for your help with that issue!!!!!!!
It seems that the SLM has got stuck in the 'full alarm' state. The state (disarmed/armed/full alarm) is preserved through a battery disconnection as an additional security measure.
Michael,
yes, the security module was bad. I purchased a replacement (used) module I found on EBay and installed it which completely restored all functionality. Cost just under $100. Several vendors were offering these. I purchased the exact model (unit #) that was original to my car. All I needed to do was re-program the key fobs!
thanks for asking! My issue is Resolved!
Locks, Trunk and Fuel lids/ top mechanism not functioning
