Am thinking to replace expansion tank & sensor in ‘97 xk8. Is there any advantage to using genuine Jaguar parts or will I get as good a part from, say...partsgeek? Had “coolant low” warning, off and on , ended up having radiator flushed in any case. Warning coming on intermittently again. I’m seeing lots of recommendations to just replace tank and sensor(sensor likely the issue). How difficult is that to do, if the jag experience is lacking?
Thanks!

 

Altogether, after market parts are generally fine, but specifically for this tank, there have been reports of failed floats in this part sold as new (the sensor clips in from the bottom, but the tank comes with a float). The priced difference might still be worth it to you even in the off chance you have to return a defective part. Budget some time to test the tank before installing it. Also, remember that a '97 has an additional line going to the top of the radiator, so you will have to make sure the stub hookup on the tank is actually letting coolant through (it comes plugged). If in doubt, there is a TSB on jagrepair.com that covers all these details.

 

Most of us just order the aftermarket coolant reservoirs from the various online sources and wind up saving significant money because they all tend to leak or crack after 5 to 7 years regardless of where they came from. My current one came from rockauto back in September 2017 and I have a new spare one (also from rockauto) on my garage shelf ready for when I need it....

One caveat: I have found that these aftermarket reservoirs do much better with OEM caps, so I am running a 2015 OEM cap on my 2017 aftermarket reservoir. The aftermarket caps that come with the aftermarket reservoirs are definitely inferior to the more costly OEM caps. Keep in mind that the cap controls the coolant flow to and from the atmospheric recovery tank in the fender well. With some of the aftermarket caps I have experienced coolant being able to flow from the reservoir to the recovery tank, but not back from the recovery tank to the reservoir as needed. Keeping an OEM cap on the aftermarket reservoir fixed that issue....

 

Thanks! I have another question about the parts terms....I’ve seen OE, OEM, and OE TYPE....and I know what the first two mean, but what the heck is an “OE(M) TYPE”? While I can’t do the work myself, I want to be able to at least have some basic Jaguar language skills.
Yes, still wary of being talked down to or ripped off. ......and I really want to enjoy the car without hyperventilating on a daily basis...

 

The level SENSOR is less reliable than the TANK. That being said, both will fail over time. If you only have a COOLANT LOW warning, you can probably get away with only a new SENSOR. An OEM Expansion Tank comes complete with sensor and cap. Several aftermarket tanks don't include the cap. Factor this into any cost comparisons.

If you are really cost conscious, buy a new tank, fit the sensor to the existing tank and keep the new parts (tank and cap) until required. If you aren't too bothered, just fit the new assembly.

It's not a difficult swap but does involve some coolant loss. Extended Life Coolant (OAT) has a five year change recommendation. It could be sensible to combine a tank change with a coolant drain, flush and refill if it's approaching change schedule.

Graham

 

OE is Original Equipment, OEM is Original Equipment Manufacturer - basically the same, but sometimes OEM's will produce the same product under different names, such as Unipart in the UK (do they still exist?)

 

Yes, darlin’, I know what the letters stand for, but as I was looking at online parts, I came across one listed as “oem type” . Is that just a fancy way of saying it ISNT oem? It does seem designed to mislead....

 

Graham.... Drat! Had the flush and fill done already, hoping(fingers crossed)that would solve intermittent warning light. It did for a while, but I haven’t had the confidence to drive really long distances, so now testing my anxiety levels. Warning light...hellooooo. Anyway, the expansion tank is one thing I haven’t found in PO maintenance records, but given how carefully he took care of the car, I would bet it was changed. So this is my understanding: expansion tank needs changed, basically any decent tank. Sensor and cap would be best if oem. Will have to replace lost coolant. Check👍
Now here’s the question: can basic shade tree mechanic change that out(I know that plug in new tank needs to be removed ) following online instructions? Or is it best taken to a shop?

cindy

 

Replacing the coolant reservoir is an easy job that anyone with a basic understanding of how to use tools can do. The key is to remove any remaining coolant in the reservoir before you pull it (which will make the job far less messy). Many owners use an old turkey baster. I pump it out with a cheap $6 hand pump from Harbor Freight. Placing an old hand towel around the reservoir before removing its hose connections will greatly help to absorb any spilled coolant (and there will be some regardless of how empty you are able to pump the reservoir before you pull it)....

 

FWIW: If you insert the plastic input, suction-up tube on your transfer pump (now $7.00 at Harbor Freight, $16.00 elsewhere, but still one of the best bargains in auto tools) into the main feed-in drain in the bottom of the expansion tank, you can draw out as much coolant as needed: somewhat more than the lowest level in the tank to not spill any when changing it out or another quart or two when (not if) changing the upper radiator hose, thermostat housing, coolant pump, etc. That way, you can avoid having to deal with the impossible screw-in drain plug in the bottom of the radiator. When I had to replace the radiator, I ran the tube down the right-side collection tank and drained it in much less time and mess than if I used the drain plug.

 

It's not difficult and requires minimal tools. Here's what it looks like with the tank removed:




The harness connector plug is arrowed in RED. A narrow blade screwdriver in the groove lifts the metal clip to release it. The main hose at the bottom needs to be plugged. A wine bottle cork (arrowed in BLUE) is a perfect fit and leaves something to look forward to when the work is done. The small bore tube to the radiator (arrowed in YELLOW) also need to be temporarily plugged. Here I've used a 1/4" drive extension.

Graham

 

Took Jag out to Bob this morning. He pressure tested the expansion tank , and it failed where the cap would be. So, I ordered a new tank, and Bob says he’ll install it for me. Always good to have that guy on the team. I invited him to bring Mrs. Bob to the house for Hot Toddies anytime.

cindy/rosevillesister

 

It seems to me that the only reason a part would be listed as "OEM Type" would be to say it's similar to the OEM part (as opposed to having a different design) but it is not the actual OEM part. For a part like brake rotors where aftermarket parts can be a lot different than the OEM part, this could be a meaningful term. Otherwise, if they said "OEM Quality" that would generally be more meaningful to me... "OEM Type" sounds a bit like it looks like the OEM part, but who knows how well it'll hold up compared to the OEM part.